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  • Still stumped on AMP light

    I just don't get it guys! My 85 is pretty much bone stock and after a year or so of owning it, its giving me electrical problems.

    ok, here goes. Does anyone know why my AMP light comes on when the car seems to be cold (below R on normal) or when i first start it up. It likes to flicker too and even when i rev it at cold temp, the amp light seems to want to turn off but then it turns bank on. I had my SVO tested at Autozone and they said my alternator was not charging and thats why it comes on. When it comes on, the car seems to run sh**ty, if you hold it at a high rpm in neutral, i hear a popping sound from my exhaust and my lights all dim, all of 'em! When the car seems to finally reach operating temp, everything goes back to normal, lights nice and bright and engine purrs nicely. Weird huh? The thing is that sometimes i don't need to drive really far in the mornings(60 degrees F) to work so by the time i get to work, the engine is just starting to get hot and sometimes it doesn't so my lights are really dim... so dim that my battery is just about dead when i try to start the car after i just turned it off. Basically, i have to wait until the engine reaches op. temp to charge the battery back up. It really sucks because i have to wait until it gets warm enough that it charges the battery back up and i dont get stuck.

    Heres the scoop on my charging system:
    Last February I had the same problem sort of and thinking it was my voltage regulator, i replaced it with a new one. Nothing changed so an Alt shop told me to get a new alt, this fixed the problem, guess the diodes were bad or something.

    1. That alternator that i replaced was done last feb with a lifetime warranty one from Kragen (Checker or Shucks), that i just replaced again thinking it might fix this... nothing.

    2. When I replaced the alternator the first time in feb, i got a new voltage regulator although it wasn't the problem and i didn't know, and it spent about a week with the old (bad) alternator until i bought the new one, then it worked.

    3. The car seems not to charge the battery or something seems to be wrong with the charging system at cold engine temp.

    4. The car will run better once its warm enough, then the amp light turns off completely and stops flickering although it will start doind it again if the car cools enough like on the highway.

    Also, I don't know if it has anything to do with this problem but im also starting t notice that my engine seems to loose power sometimes when i shift from first and on. When im on the gas and i shift, occasionally the engine seems to bog or something but the weird thing is that i here the turbo going crazy (normal) and the exhaust sounds normal too but i don't get any horsepower, its almost like the tranny or clutch is slipping but they arent. I have no cat so i don't think its exhaust related ... or can it be, all i have is the stock exhaust with no cat and a flowmaster.

    Summary of my problems:
    1. Engine seems to loose HP sometimes when i get on it hard enough in mostly all the gears, enginehumms nicely and turbo screams too but the car feels really heavy.

    2. Alt light flickers a lot especially when car is cold and system does not charge battery. New alt with fairly new volt reg. but the volt. reg was used on a bad alt for about a week.

    IF ANYONE HAS ANY FREAKIN' IDEAS FOR ME TO TRY, IM MORE THAN HAPPY TO TELL YOU WHAT HAPPENED! PLEASE HELP, I REALLY HATE IT WHEN I CAN'T ENJOY MY SVO.

  • #2
    AMP light

    izzy,
    Had something similar occur to mine and I thought it was the voltage regulator as well. Bought a new one, installed it, ran fine for a while than went back to your described problems. Check the wires that go into the plug of the voltage regulator. My wires were popping out of the the harness and not fully seating w/voltage regulator. Every once in a while, I'll check and make sure they're still in there by giving them a little push in. Hope that helps.
    Also check voltage on battery. I'm sure you already did that but... ya never know.
    Joe
    Joe

    Early 84 1C

    Comment


    • #3
      hey izzy by any chance did you go to eden area r.o.p.? because a teacher of mines had told me about a person with an svo and the persons name was izzy , mr.sanchez was the one who told me.
      86' SVO 2A
      "UNDER CONSTRUCTION"

      Comment


      • #4
        izzy from EAROP

        Actually yeah, thats me, the guy on the cable commercial from Eden Area ROP. Who are you, do you have mr sanchez right now?

        Anywayz, TurboJoe,

        Thanx for the feedback, seems i stumped SVOeric and everyone else who answers this forum. Im going to try that tommorrow morning, that might be the problem because when i got tech inspected at Firebird Raceway in Chandler, Az i had to put a bungee cord around my battery and i think i must have pulled on the reg. connector.

        Thanx

        Comment


        • #5
          Izzy,

          I had a similar situation with my 86 several years ago; it kept eating alternators. It turns out the problem was the battery cables - they were frayed at the ends and not making real good contact. Thus alternators kept burning up. Although the EEC-IV system was one of the best in the world in its day, it doesn't work very well when the system voltage drops too low (like from a dying battery and/or alternator) and the car runs like crap. You may or may not have the same problem, but it's worth a careful look at those cables. Good luck.
          David

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          • #6
            yeah i got his class right now im a first year and i was askin him how do i install a by-pass valve and if i should, he told me that he remembers a student he had that had an svo and that they put a by-pass valve in it. he said that it lowers boost so now im kinda havin second thoughts
            86' SVO 2A
            "UNDER CONSTRUCTION"

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by cccccc
              yeah i got his class right now im a first year and i was askin him how do i install a by-pass valve and if i should, he told me that he remembers a student he had that had an svo and that they put a by-pass valve in it. he said that it lowers boost so now im kinda havin second thoughts
              Sounds like he doesn't have a clue what he's talking about. It does NOT lower boost. It's a preventative measure with nice side effect. It helps releave pressure off the compressor during shifts. This allows quicker spool time (lag) between shifts and decreases undo wear on the turbo.

              Comment


              • #8
                he also told me that the hole you drill into the ic is kinda big like a 50 cent piece, is that true?
                86' SVO 2A
                "UNDER CONSTRUCTION"

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by cccccc
                  he also told me that the hole you drill into the ic is kinda big like a 50 cent piece, is that true?
                  Yes, I believe it's 1 1/2" in diameter....or there-a-bouts. That's where the air vented - into the I/C - keeping all metered air still in the system.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hey Bud ck your pm's.
                    A man stands tallest when he stoops to help a child.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Found the problem

                      Ok guys, i finally figured it out. I went back to Checker and i told them to give me another new alternator (free witgh my lifetime warranty) and i bought another brand new voltage regulator ... IT WORKS NOW! My car's amp light is off, no more no charging. Guess the hot/cold AZ weather really puts a beat on these cars huh?

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