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**Eyelawdoc** · 10-29-2002, 03:46 AM

One way to see if your bog is caused by the BCS is to pull the hose that goes to the BCS off at the nipple on the turbo housing and try a few runs without it. I doubt that that is the problem, however. It could also be caused by the knock sensor. You could disconnect that and see if it makes a difference- BUT DON'T LET IT PING IF YOU DO.

Most problems of this type are caused by poor condition of the ignition components.Make sure you have good plugs, wires, cap & rotor. Check to be sure that the TFI module plug and attached wiring are in good shape. If you see any cracked or frayed wires, replace the TFI plug and pigtail. These wires can corrode from the inside and cause irratic ignition and timing performance that's hard to track down. Where is your timing set?

Check for adequate fuel pressure. Also you might want to pull the codes to see if anything shows up. Check for restrictions in the exhaust system, like a clogged cat.

Hope this gives you some ideas.

**svobud** · 10-29-2002, 08:36 AM

izzy,

Your signature line says you have an adjustable boost valve. If so, why do you have a BCS inline?

More than likely - it has nothing to do with your BCS. Rather, a TPS, IAC, Plug wire/plugs. Or it could be as EyeDoc - your KS is pulling timing or something. Engines just don't BOG in one gear. It should be doing it in every gear - under the same circumstances (RPM, etc)

**izzy** · 10-29-2002, 01:31 PM

BCS

eyedoc and bud,

Thanx for the advice guys, i have so much to tell you guys about my car. I just got off the phone with a good buddy of mine (fellow SVO owner) and he says why do i have a BCS when i have an adjustable boost controller valve and i told him that i didn't know i didn't need the BCS. He says to call the guy at tiny avenger and ask him how to eliminate? the BCS since i have that vavle. Does this sound right to anyone? Also, when i last put my car on the scanner (about 4 months ago) it told me the only thing wrong with the car was that the TPS was out of range. CAN THIS BE THE CAUSE, TELL ME ITS SO? The car seems to have a vacuum leak or huge cam at a stop light whenever i come off the freeway in fifth, could that be the TPS? I have a brand new one thats just waiting to be put in but i havent gotten around to doing it but then i heard those TPSs are adjustable and that i probably wouldn't even have to take the old one off? I think im just going to install the new one anyway just to have new critical parts in it ya kno? Second, I have the stock exhaust with no cat and a single to dual 2 chamber flowmaster put in about a year ago, could the exhaust also be a key in this problem? Third, about the knock sensor, i should probably try disconneting it and get a few runs in it, ill tell yous guys what happens. Fourth, It seems like im always, always checking those dang plugs and wires all the time. Everytime i have a miss or something not right, i always end up replacing the plugs, cap/rotor, and wires even. They seem to get rid of the problem but dang it man, are you supposed to change all those out about 3 times a year? It seems like i did about 3 tune ups all ready this year alone. The last time i changed the cap and rotor, plugs and wires was last august right before i drove it 700 miles to Phoenix. Maybe i just put too many miles on it? My buddy says these turbo cars wear out parts faster and even faster if they're exposed to 115+ degree weather (AZ <--hell). As far as the TFI module, yes it happened to me too, mine went out like last november and the one on there now is a Kragen generic so im guessing its not the TFI but im like 99.99% sure its in the ignition (did anyone else get those recall letters from Ford or someone about the TFI modules last year?, i never turned mine in... oops). My timing is at 10 (with the spout? disconnected), stock right? I ALWAYS run 91 and just for future reference, i think it does bog in every gear, guess i didn't notice it as much before.

Thanx a lot guys, im going to go take a look at it once more and disconnect the knock sensor and check the TFI module and replace that TPS ASAP. Sorry i wrote so much.

izzy

**Eyelawdoc** · 10-29-2002, 01:52 PM

Clean your Idle Air Control, swap in a new set of Motorcraft AWSF-32C plugs gapped at .030", install and set the new TPS and disconnect either the aftermarket boost control or the factory boost control (you only need one!). Do it a step at a time and see if your problem doesn't disappear.

Also check the wiring to the TFI module plug! I CANNOT EMPHASIZE HOW IMPORTANT THIS IS, especially out there in the desert where the heat buildup just cooks the insulation off these wires. I experienced symptoms very similar to yours UNTIL I replaced my TFI plug and pigtail.

**svobud** · 10-29-2002, 06:37 PM

eyedoc pretty much answered everything you needed - but I'll give my .02 on each question...even though there's about a dozen of them...

your buddy is correct - eliminate the stock BCS if you're using an afternmarket adjustable valve.

The car seems to have a vacuum leak or huge cam at a stop light whenever i come off the freeway in fifth, could that be the TPS?

as noted - clean your IAC....and set the TPS correctly. Instructions are listed in the FAQs.

I have the stock exhaust with no cat and a single to dual 2 chamber flowmaster put in about a year ago, could the exhaust also be a key in this problem?

In a word...NO.

about the knock sensor, i should probably try disconneting it and get a few runs in it, ill tell yous guys what happens

just be sure to listen for detonation. it sounds like gravel in a coffee can being shakened. if you hear it - lift your foot off the gas before you pop the headgasket or burn a piston.

It seems like im always, always checking those dang plugs and wires all the time.

could be your choice in wires and plug. my advice, always use MOTORCRAFT. I don't care what others are proclaiming in that spark plug wire review...use motorcraft wires and plugs.

My buddy says these turbo cars wear out parts faster and even faster if they're exposed to 115+ degree weather (AZ <--hell).

uh - I don't know about that one. The 115+ heat is probably doing more damage than anything. I imagine you'll continue to burn up TFIs because of it. Usually, when the TFI is bad - the car will just buck-sputter-quit when it reaches operating temps...then once it's cooled...it [/i]may[/i] start back up and run until it heats up again. The problem is in the fctory location of it and it's weakness when subjected to heat.

My timing is at 10 (with the spout? disconnected), stock right?

yes, that's stock.

I ALWAYS run 91 and just for future reference, i think it does bog in every gear, guess i didn't notice it as much before.

You should be running 93 octane - this may be a contributing factor, but I'm pretty sure it's related to your IAC and TPS.

**drewkeen** · 10-29-2002, 10:54 PM

on the subject of timing, has anyone bumped their timing? new to turbo motors and i know 5.0's like 14 deg and only have like 10 deg stock too.

**SVOeric** · 10-30-2002, 09:48 AM

you can do it (bump timing), but you have to be careful about detonation.

**gbeaird** · 10-30-2002, 02:09 PM

If you are going to play with bumping timing, test it one degree at a time, and you will now ONLY be able to run premium (93 octane) in the car at all times. Anything less is asking for a chance to replace the head gasket.

Gene Beaird
86 2R SVO
Pearland, Texas

**izzy** · 10-31-2002, 12:40 AM

TPS

Well thanx for the advice guys, tommorrow in class i am planning to swap out the TPS and install the new one and set it. I've seen the instructions on the forum but is it really that hard to do this job? I see that the IAC might be in the way. You guys say i should take the IAC out and clean it right, with what? I got some electrical cleaner, will that work? As far as the wire/pulgs, i use NGKs, the buck sixty ones from Kragen after i found that i was fouling the Bosch platinums (heard those realllllly suck) and i use the autolite wire, probably will pick up a set of Motorcraft ones a little later. I don't exactly remember the gap on my car but i know its the stock (.024 right?) but you think i should go bigger (.030)? And as far as fuel, well i would use 93 only here in the west coast(California) and hell (Arizona) 91 is the only fuel with the highest octane rating available and easily accesable without actually having to hunt out those stations that have 93, (I've seen only one since i've been out here (hell) and that was way in Snottsdale (Scottsdale) where it was 93 for like $2.43 i think.

Anywayz, thanx.

**svono50** · 10-31-2002, 10:54 AM

Izzy,

I would suggest getting the NGK's out of there and replacing them with either Autolite 764's or Motorcraft AWSF 32C's. I can get the Autolites at Walmart for $1.50/pair so $3/set. Stock gap is 0.032-0.036", but I always recommend 0.030-0.032". Since you can only get 91 octane the smaller gap will help a little in that situation.

Here in Chicago I am lucky since all stations carry 93 and one local no-name chain carries Unocal 100 unleaded at the pump. Granted, it is $3.69/gallon, but it has been that price for at least 7 years now.

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