Rear Caliper Tool

[BrianG]

I'm getting ready to replace the pads and rotors as a winter project.....

What tools should I use to push the pistons in on the rear calipers? Where could I get it?

Will any DOT 4 fluid be a good replacement?

[richsvo]

As far as pushing the calipers in, I always use a big c-clamp. Just remove the pads, insert the c-clamp into the piston, with the solid part to the rear of the caliper, and SLOWLY draw the clamp together. Works great! As far as the fluid, it depends on what you are using the car for. If it is being raced, then you'll want a high temp fluid, otherwise any good brake fluid will do the trick.

Anyone else with another opinion?

Hope that helped...

Rich

[CP86SVO]

If memory serves me correctly, you do need a special tool to wind in the rear caliper piston. The tool has two nipples on one side of it, to fit into the recesses in the piston; the other side goes into a 3/8 or 1/2 extension, depending on the brand of tool. You need to screw the piston back in because the piston screws out as the pads wear and the parking brake is engaged. Most auto parts stores have it; I use the KD Tools one.

As for fluid, Ford HD Dot 3 is pretty good and cheap, as it has a high dry boiling point; you have to change it often, every year or before open track events, as the wet boiling point is pretty bad. Another good one is Motul 600; expensive, but high dry boiling point and not too bad a wet boiling point.

HTH WS

[richsvo]

Ah, yes...you are correct. I apologise for that. (it has been awhile since I have done the brakes myself)

That tool is pretty widely available though...

[Darren]

Hey Guys,

I just asked about this not too long ago, you can probably find the response to my question from SVOPaul. I still have not changed the pads on my car, but when I did try I could not get the piston in the rear calipers to retract. Apparently you need to turn the piston AND press it in. There is a special tool that combines the two. I haven't found one yet locally (I found one online), and it looks to be a $45 tool.

-Darren

[CP86SVO]

I would agree that you need to turn and push in. The square block type (by Snap-On) and the KD Tools type do work ok. However, you have to take the rear caliper out of the car, put the caliper into a vise to hold it tight and then use the tool, pushing into the caliper and turning the ratchet. I think part of the reason why taking it out works is that when you try to push and turn the
brake piston while it's in the car is that the bleeders are usually closed, so that you have to contend with trying to push the brake fluid back into the master cylinder.

Having said all of that, I have used the special combo tool when I had my car at my friends' shop and it does make the job much faster and easier.

HTH WS

[gbeaird]

You will want to either open the bleeder screws (not recommended and messy) or pull the top off the master cyllinder (recommended, not messy, if you monitor the level in the cyllinder) while you are compressing the piston.

The tool is also highly recommended, but I have done it on both our SVO and Lincoln Versailles with a pair of phillips screwdrivers and a larger straight blade screw driver. I push the phillips drivers into the little holes on the piston, hole the handles tightly together and turn the drivers with the flat blade driver. It is a chore to accomplish, but doable. The tool makes it MUCH easier. You don't have to pull the caliper off the car, just remove the disk and remount the caliper on the caliper mounts to hold it in place while you screw the pistons back in.

Gene Beaird
86 2R SVO, G Stock
Pearland, Texas

[Carl]

Open the bleeders . . .

Since I always bleed the brakes to flush the fluid after a brake job, I just run a small plastic hose from the bleeder to a jar, open the bleeder, and twist them in. They go in quite easily, and I don't worry about the small amount of air that can backfill.
The first time I did the brakes on an SVO, I tried twisting the piston in slowly without the bleeder open (MC cap off), and blew out a piston seal. The fluid is supposed to flow back to the master cylinder, but something makes me think that some flow restriction somewhere works against this.

Carl

[SVOtaxi]

yes, use DOT 4 fluid

I would strongly advise using DOT 4 in any street car, especially one that may not be a daily driver.

It is a commom misconception that the only difference between the DOT3 and DOT4 spec is minimum boiling point (actually most of the really high boiling point race fluids are only DOT3 rated ).

The difference that makes DOT4 better for street driven cars is that it is esterfied with boric acid making it significantly less hygroscopic. Water is undesireable in brake fluid both because it lowers the boiling point (bad for racing) and it leads to premature corrosion of internal brake components (bad for street cars where the fluid isn't bled out before each event).

my 2 cents on that one...

Wally

[svofan1]

...brake caliper tool

I need help here...I do have the tool set sold by Harbour Freight and none of the different dics included match the two holes on the caliper piston. The famous "cube" does not fit and at this point I wonder who has the right disc to use on there rear brake calipers.
Thanks for any info...all appreciated....

SVOFAN1@optonline.net

Ralph L.

[gbeaird]

Odd. I have a K-D #3163, and it fit (K-D 3163 is the number stamped in the side of the tool, anyway). I believe I got it after replacing the rear pads, and ended up using a couple of phillips-head screwdrivers. It was a chore doing it this way, but worked. I did the same thing on a Versailles I owned many years ago.

Gene Beaird
86 2R SVO
Pearland, Texas

[svofan1]

..caliper tool...

Thanks Gene, but I am confused, if the tool fit why did you use the screw driver set up? ...and this tool is the "cube" right? ...Paul Becker recomended that I buy the Harbour Freight tool kit I did and like I said none fit correctly...wait until I get my hands on Paul's neck..it will feel sooo good....lol....
I emailed Paul but he seems missing in action I guess he must be really busy nowadays...
Thanks again..
Ralph