Finishing the racecar blog. Yes?

[Horsewidower]

Yep a lot of fuel. We went 22 also because we would like to hit a couple of the Western Enduro races run by NASA. You can always run a 1/2 tank but you can't run a tank and a half!!

The only issue I see with those tanks is (other than cost) that it limits how low you can set up your chassis. If you maintain a sane ride height, you should be fine. Given that you are running a stock spindle in the front, you probably shouldn't be running less than 5" at the rocker, but you'll have to check your geometry for the front end and then set the height. Then set the rearend height so that you have 1/2* to 1* rake. Whatever you do, make sure the rear lower control arm pivot point at the axle is lower than the front pivot point at the chassis. You probably know all these things so disregard my pedantic ramblings, if so.

Bob

[Horsewidower]

Here's the latest. We just got back the stuff we needed modified for the clutch and throw-out bearing. As usual, things didn't fit as planned in their original configuration. We purchased a Tilton adjustable hydraulic throw-out bearing, (the only vendor that had one for a t-5) and a Quartermaster 5.5 pro double disc clutch and lightweight flywheel. They didn't like each other.

In order to make everything work, we had to lengthen the sleeve on the throw-out bearing so that it would actually touch the fingers on the clutch and we had to make a spacer to space the flywheel out from the crankshaft so that the splines in the transmission shaft would properly engage the clutch discs. While we will run this in the mule motor, which will have a limited time in the car during the shake down, we will have to use dowels as drive pins for the spacer and flywheel when we get to the race motor. Well, here are the pics:

[Horsewidower]

Rest of the pics:

[Henson]

Horse- Is your fuel pump loud?
I have an exteranal inline pump. I’m currently using an intake pick up tube. The pump is loud. I need to revisit the fuel system sometime soon. Ideally, I would like to do something similar to your set up. The fox fuel safe is the easiest solution though very expensive.

I don’t like bulk heads. Does the track allow a “trap door” like cover to cover the fuel cell?

Sometime I think it would easier to just use a rear sump. How do I quiet the pump with out overheating?
What pump are you using? Is that a check valve I see? Insulation?

[Henson]

I’m going T5 G-force dog bone with 0.9 5th. They use 26 spline vs 10 spline. Can you get it in 26 spline?

What kit or part numbers?

Edit:
Found it. Though you can give me the inside scope!

http://www.circletrack.com/techarticles/clutch_install_tech_how_to/

How does the petal feel? I don’t like hydraulic clutches. I wonder how yours will feel. What bell house are you using? I assume adapting small block to 2.3. What’s the going rate for this clutch system?

[Horsewidower]

See the pm on the gas tank issue.

Yes there is a check valve, its a 255 walbro. There is no insulation, but it does have vibration mounts.

[Horsewidower]

Its a lot like that one, but its not a button clutch. Quartermaster has the full set up for the "Pinto." Tilton has the hydraulic throwout bearing. The full set up is north of $1200.

Yes they have clutch discs with the proper splines; make sure you give them the proper spline count and diameter.

I can't remember if I bought the stuff from Coleman or Stockcar Products. I'll check and get back to you.

The bellhousing is a standard 2.3. Its been machined so that the starter is placed properly after the addition of the spacer.

I think the hydraulic clutch is reliable. Since I don't yet have it set up, I don't know whether or not I'll like the feel.

Bob

[Horsewidower]

Part numbers: Clutch

Series 5.5 Clutch & Flywheel Assemblies
Part No. Discs Description Spline Weight

29529863 2 Ford Pinto 2000/2300 cc 1" x 23 12.1

http://www.racingclutches.com/content/product.asp

BOB'S NOTE: Make sure that you have them send the correct spline and diameter for the clutch discs. I requested the 1 1/16th X 10 spline but still received the 1 X 23. We also spaced the flywheel out .225 with a steel spacer to more fully engage the transmission shaft with the clutch disc splines.

You need to measure your own application and determine what you need to make it work for you. This is not a plug and play.

Here is the hydraulic throw out assembly.

http://www.tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=hydraulic2

Again, not a plug and play, we had to extend the sleeve that fits in the bearing by about 1" to get it to work with the quartermaster clutch.

Is this all worth it? I don't know yet, the entire clutch and flywheel assembly weighs 12lbs, which should allow the motor to wrap up very quickly. The hydraulic throwout should enhance our reliability. Stay tuned, we will see if the theory works out.

Bob

[Horsewidower]

Arca head, ss exhaust and aluminum intake flanges

Just got the head back today from Bo, he just finished prototyping stainless steel exhaust flanges and aluminum intakes. We won't be using it until we get the chassis settled out with the mule motor. I couldn't be more pleased.

http://www.bo-port.com/

[Horsewidower]

I don't recall ever seeing Rain-X used that way before!

Mario was right: "its amazing."

[Henson]

Boing!

Pop goes the Weasel as the Weasel goes pop.

[Horsewidower]

Vacation time.

Taking spring break off with my boys. The goals are to get as much of the body and windows hung as possible. We'll start at the rear, weld up the bumper, hang the rear flares, mount the quarter windows and try to get the back window mounted.

If that all gets done, I'll weld up the front bumper, mount the polyureathane nose, mount the flared front fenders, fit the hood and do the windshield.

The chance of this all happening, pretty damn low.

I also have to get the turbo turd (my '86 svo) ready for some open track time. Just got through putting a new motor combo in it (je flat tops, crower sportsmans, boported iron head with a 2277, badly needs to be tuned in, runs like crap) and mounting MM full length subframe connectors, lower control arms, koni yellows, stiffer lower springs, FMS aluminum radiator and removed the rear swaybar. I need to finish the MM panhard rod install, go through the front brakes and find some time to tune it.



Gonna be a busy week.

[Horsewidower]

Well, the trannys blown on the red turd. Good thing I've got an extra one for the racecar. Not the way I expected to start the vacation. But I should have it taken care of tonight. Going to "300" with the boys and their friends at the local Imax this afternoon. Should be an experience.

Bob

[Horsewidower]

Looks like I might have spoken too soon. The u-joints are shot. Took it over to the drive line shop to have them knock the harmonic balancer off it, put in heavy duty u-joints and balance it. Let's see if that works. Should have the panhard bar install finished today. The frame rails were a lot thicker than I expected, but other than that it hasn't been too tough. An extra set of hands would have been helpful, but a couple of sheet metal screws held everything up while I did the critical measurements.

[Horsewidower]

Yep, driveshaft. Put the rebuilt one in and it's great.

Of course something else would come up, my son was changing the supercharger pulley on the MINI and we found out that a motor mount was broken. I guess after 120,000 miles, and numerous track days it could be expected. $95 for a motor mount and we had to order it.

Time to get back to our regularly scheduled racecar blog. I told my wife (Lovely Donna) I'd spend one day of vacation working around the house, today's that day. I'll get back on the racecar tomorrow.

Bob