E6 Manifold Problem?

[93-331-29psi]

I read alot about the E6 cracking and thought I'd give mine a good look over considering my recent problems. I have no clue what the hell I am doing, but I think I found part of my cars problem. Looks like the e6 on the car is cracked in 2 spots between the 2nd and 3rd cylinder. I can't tell if it is cracked the whole way through, but when the car warms up it runs fine. When it is cold it still sounds like an exhaust leak.

Is it possible that a crack could seal itself once the car warms up? I know that metal expands when it is hot, but wasn't sure if the e6 would get hot enough to seal itself. Any thoughts? Better yet, anyone local want to come have a look at it??? I got beer!!!

[S8V6O]

You'll have to get Pat a plane ticket to go along with the beer......URP!

[93-331-29psi]

lol, well I learned that the crack is completely through. I have another e6 that isn't cracked, but I am thinking about a bob log if I can get the wife to let me.

[Pat_in_L.A.]

Buy a toy for your car, then do a small home improvement.
Buy another car.
Rinse and repeat at a slightly larger scale.
Just keep ahead of the curve.

[93-331-29psi]

Yeah - they DO crack, although it's kinda rare on the E6 models (versus hte earlier E3 flavors). In my experience with cracks (in metals!) they never fix themselves.

You should also check to see that the engine is in a good state of tune. Cranking is an indication of temps too high for too long. High boost with too retarded timing is hte number one result of high EGTs.

Thanks for the info. The car start right up first time every time. I do believe that the boost is set too high via the boost valve, but I keep it around 10psi when I am into it. The timing is set where Troy set it before I bought it. Where should it be set and how do I tune it, or tell my current state of tune??

[NavySVO]

Timing should be at 10* BTDC with the SPOUT out (disconnected).

Set the timing just like any other car, timing light and turn distributor.

Do you have a timing cover with the timing marks?

http://svoca.com/forum/showpost.php?p=152972&postcount=12

Check plug gap .032" to .036" I believe is what is called out. Some folks set theirs at .030".
Check cap and rotor, as well as wires. Run Motorcraft everything for best results. www.forced4.com offers a tune up kit. Make sure you order the proper rotor (regardless of the year of your car, as the dist. may have been swapped out at one time or another)

Check your timing belt for proper "engine timing". Running with retarded cam timing will cause it to run hotter. Also running lean on fuel will cause it to run hotter.
Some good reading here http://svoca.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1959

[93-331-29psi]

Well I bought myself a new e6 manifold from NavySVO and replaced the cracked one.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...cement005m.jpg

I got the new one in place and plan to have it running again before the day is over.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...acement003.jpg

[BrianO]

glad you found one, I had hell trying to find one locally or even relatively close by.

[NavySVO]

I got the new one in place and plan to have it running again before the day is over.

Well?

[93-331-29psi]

Well it is all together, minus a plug, clamp, and VAM hose. It is also about 40 pounds lighter, since the non working AC came off (for now). I am ready to fire up as soon as I find those few items. Guess I won't be making my 11:59 deadline afterall.

[NavySVO]

PM me with details on what you need....what kinda PLUG, how bigga CLAMP..
or call me in the morning around 8:00

And no pics? Shame, Shame