Clutch problems (kinda long)

[SVOJames]

I'm working on getting my 86 2R working again.

It was parked 3-4 years ago, it broke the long clutch cable after <40K miles.

In 1998, it got a new Centerforce clutch and plate, and all new Ford parts for the rest of the system. New cable, new adjustable assembly, etc.

The car spent another year or so around Portland, OR, then another 18 months (garaged as a fair weather car) around Boulder, CO, before moving to TX.

My thought was that the bearing retainer was scored. The first picture shows what I was thinking is the bearing retainer (and I could be wrong), but it doesn't show any obvious grooves in it. I think I feel a depression as I run my hand along this shaft (don't take the cheap shots here).

[NavySVO]

(don't take the cheap shots here).

That's asking a lot from this crowd......
No, that isn't bad at all, but you should go ahead and replace it with a steel one while it's out

[SVOeric]

If I remove a tranny, I always replace the bearing retainer with a steel one (unless it's already been done).
Just make sure you get the one that is allum base & Steel tube.. I picked one up onece that was all cast, weighted about 15 pounds, and didn't fit right.

[SVOJames]

Which of our vendors would have the bearing retainer? I'm also needing tune-up parts, a starter, and a (walbro) fuel pump so far.

[SVOeric]

I don't think any of our vendors keep the bearing retainer.. but I would recomend hanlon motorsports, in NJ... good people... and if Bob's wife Linda answers the phone, don't think she's just a dumb secertary, She is VERY knowledgable...

[NavySVO]

EC is just a little off today..........Hanlon out of Pa.

http://www.hanlonmotorsports.com/

[SVOJames]

I'm impressed with Hanlon, I called and left a VM Indy-day, Linda & Bob both talked to me on tuesday, and I got the part Friday via UPS ground.

Question #1

I thought I was getting a gasket to go between the bearing retainer and the trans. I have read where a sealer is needed between these two places, and I think that's the red stuff leaking on my picture. Is there supposed to be a gasket there too?

Question #2

I've got NO experience with fitting stuff to within a couple of thousands of an inch. My understanding is that the input shaft should have between .0 and .002 endplay.

What tool do I need to buy to measure this, and how should I place the tool to measure it?

--------------------------

I actually bought 2 pieces, with one shim kit. I understand I need to transfer the "cone retainer?" and possibly the shim from the existing transmission, I'm just unclear on how to measure it.

James

[Pat_in_L.A.]

No gasket. Locktite sells "gasket maker" in a tube. It looks like grape jelly. (Do Not Eat)

Find a local machinist or tranny shop who has a depth gauge and a set of calipers. End play can be measured with a dial indicator. If depth of new part measures the same where the shims go, duplicate the original shim thickness as a starting point. Pre assemble and check end play with dial indicator. Add or subtract shims as needed. Then break out the grape jelly for final assembly. Make sure the drain notch is facing down. Then go pour a scotch.

[under pressure]

Install a new pilot bearing. You can go to Autozone or pep boys, or Napa and get a loaner pilot bearing puller. Check your seals and you can drain & refill it with syn. trans fluid.