Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Steering rack Question

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Steering rack Question

    I am about to also replace the steering rack in my SVO. It's starting to show it's age, and feeling chunky. The "rag" joint is also showing signs of cracking.

    I was wondering if anyone knows what rack I can use that will have a [b[lower[/b] rack ratio. I am not fond of all the turning I have to do in this thing compaired to my other cars.

    Has anyone done this transplant? And if so how much did you pay for the rack? Was it a TRW unit or other?

    Any help would be great.

    Thanks
    EA

  • #2
    Replacement rack

    SVTkid,

    I believe the '84 had a 20:1 ratio and all other SVO's had a 15:1. So if you can locate one from an 85-86 you will like the results.

    SVOBud and Eric can correct me if I'm mistaken.

    This is a post from the SoCal SVO site:

    Autozone also has a SVO TRW rack listing at a cost of $138 - wonder if this would be correct for any SVO application?

    I know that Sac mustang has them listed for $199.00
    Mike S

    '86 SVO 9L Leather
    '86 SVO 9L Road Warrior
    '96 300ZXTT

    Comment


    • #3
      well, you are almost all right---

      the 20:1 rack is less turns lock to lock than the 15:1 rack

      so the 84's actually had quicker ratio, and higher effort than the 85-up cars.

      I also believe the hoses are different on the TRW rack than the 85-86 racks, so you will probably need to change the pump as well as the rack.

      A lot of people prefer the 15:1 racks, so maybe you can find someone that has done the swap the other direction, that still has their parts left.
      Eric C
      SVOCA Webmaster

      Comment


      • #4
        Hey Mike--- I was basing this on a 84 I drove a long time ago, and it had the TRW rack. It was just barley over 2 turns from lock to lock.
        -- Maybe that one had been modified ??
        Eric C
        SVOCA Webmaster

        Comment


        • #5
          Looks likeI have one of each (my 84 vs. my 85). But Mike, Isn't there about a 1/2 inch difference in overall length in some combinations (aren't the GT racks shorter overall length when measured from one tie rod to the other) ?

          Comment


          • #6
            I also have had problems in my 84 SVO with rack leaks, almost from the time the car was new. A few years ago, I made the exact swap you guys are talking about, using a 85 Mustang GT 15:1 "high effort " rack. My unit came from a wrecked 85 GT. You will have to use the 84 SVO rack mount bushings and bolts, but it fits up fine. Also, as Mike notes above, you will need to use SVO outer tie rod ends ( I also used new MOOG units on my swap). As for the pressure hose, the old SVO pressure hose would not fit up to the 15:1 rack. Not a problem. Just get a pressure hose for an 85 Mustang 4 cyl. non-turbo car at Autozone, Pep Boys, Kragen etc. It connects right up to the old SVO pump and the 15:1 rack. It is not necessary to replace the pump to do this swap, but may be a good idea if your pump is high mileage and making lots of noise.

            I've been running this setup on my car for over 40,000 miles now and have not had any difficulties with it. I highly recommend it over the original 84 SVO variable ratio rack.

            Comment


            • #7
              Be Safe! Check Both Inners & Outers

              Be safe and check the lengths on both the inner and outer tie rods. Measure from the outer mounting hole on the rack body, with the steering centered, to end of inner tie rod end with outers removed / unscrewed. Also be sure to count turns or revolutions as you unscrew the outers. Then compare the length / number of the threads. I have 2 85.5 SVO's, an 85 GT, and a 90 LX. All three racks have different length inner rods. All are 15:1 ratio. Do yourself a favor and check before you buy / bolt anything on your car. I had to make custom (longer) outer tie rod ends for my LX / SVO / GT / Cobra Frankenstein car. I speak from experience. Not all racks are direct exchange bolt-ins. Also if you lower the car be sure to use the urethane offset rack bushings and check for bump steer. Bump steer occurs when the suspension bottoms out causing the tires to "splay" or kick / toe out. This is because the spindles on SVO's are considered "front steer" as the tie rod ends mount in front of the wheel. Consequently if it is a "rear steer" car the tires would toe in on bump steer. Just a few things to watch out for...
              Last edited by Ken Potter; 03-03-2003, 05:43 PM.

              Comment


              • #8
                What Ken just mentioned closer approximates my experiences with a replacement rack, I installed a Flaming River rack and there were fewer threads going into the tie rod end by about 1/4 inch on each side.

                I'd be interested, Ken, to hear more about the offset rack bushings and who makes them. That could come in handy some day.

                What did you do to modify the tie rod ends, thread a nut and bolt on an original and weld on the nut? I know that some of the stock car places sell a tapered bolt that allows you to shim a heim joint to affect bump steer changes, but try and find that in a metric thread. (dunno if it's metric,come to think of it. Haven't checked in a while so I may be full of hot air on that one)

                Comment


                • #9
                  More Details

                  The offset urethane rack bushings are available through most Mustang parts dealers. I purchased mine from Mustangs Unlimited here in Georgia. The installation is fairly simple. Simply press out the old bushings with your thumb. Clean out the hole in the rack, apply some light grease, and push in the offset / new bushing with the hole towards the top. On the outer tie rods I purchased a new set ( SVO / Lincoln LSC ). I took an old set of tie rod ends and cut off the threaded portion and ground down the cut off face / end until it was perfectly flat. I then screwed the jam nut followed by the cut off portion ( cut end against jam nut ) then the new outer end onto the inner rod. When the cut off end is butted up against the new end it creates a groove or channel which I welded all the way around. When installing the rack I supported the car with jack stands under the lower control arms to get correct ride height and centered everything accordingly. As far as bump steer goes I never did anything to correct the condition. It only occurs in very extreme conditons. I'm running 620 lb springs and since it's a toe out situation the car is still manageable. I just have to watch out for brake lock up. I've seen the heim joint kit you mentioned for 65-66's. I'm not sure if it would work for SVO's. Since I have a 66 that is slammed ( still in process, kinda on hold for now ) I'll eventually find out... Also when installing the rack make sure your steering wheel is straight or you'll have to go back and adjust.
                  Last edited by Ken Potter; 03-05-2003, 11:47 AM.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Well #%*&$#

                    Well dang! I guess you're right... Anyway... I guess my brain is upside down today. Correction : The holes in the bushings would go towards the bottm moving the rack body / assm. closer to the oil pan. Sorry about that! Ken

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Offset bushings on early 84? Help!

                      OK, I finally added some front lowering springs and bought some `85 up offset rack bushings because I have a late 80s 15:1 rack. hmmm, made sense right? While they fit the rack, the hole is too small for the metal bushing so I did some research and found they changed the mounting assy in 85. I ran to the yard and picked up the parts from a 93. great! You drill the K-member front hole out to 3/4" but how do you get the OEM sleve out of the middle of the SVO k member? It appears to be welded in there. Do I need to take it to the shop and have them torch them out of there? I thought this would be a simple spring swap :-)

                      Oh, unrelated, my year old TRW sway bar end links are bent. Is this common? I've done some spirited driving with the IRS in there now and wonder if it's adding more stress to the front end.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Forgot to ask...

                        Has anyone had to grind either the K member motor mount area or the actual rack to get the offset rack to clear where the hoses enter the rack? it looks like it will be REALLY tight on the top of the rack. It does not appear that bending the lines will help, it looks like the top of the rack area will interfer and not the lines.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          rack

                          seems that i have an 86 r&p either NOS or rebuilt still in the box. i would have to check.
                          bob

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            r&p

                            hey mike. i made 2 statements several months ago.
                            1. i sold my last svo(could not get in and out of themany more).
                            2. that my lack of an svo would not hender my svo reman leather business.
                            with no svo i have no use for all the NOS parts left over. i have offered several for sale.

                            with that in mind the shift boot is making the rounds to see what the response is.

                            bob

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X