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So i was looking at how to change the diff gear oil and had questions about how to remove the oil. Do i just remove the diff cover, let the oil drian out. then my next question is how do i put the cover back on with a gasket, or just some RVT (RTV what ever)? If so what type of RVT.
Any other help would be great.
Thanks
JP
Yup just loosen the diff cover and let'er 'leak' out, obviously with a drain pan under it.
I can't remember if I used a gasket or not when I changed mine.
no gasket.... just RTV, tighten the bolts up slightly, let it set up for about an hour, then torque them to spec. I usually let it sit a bit longer before filling.
First you will need to remove the dogbone to get at the fill plug, loosen the cover and drain it, remove all rtv really good on cover and rear ,clean it with a good degreaser or prep-sol. I bought the felpro gasket from napa and applied a light coat of the grey rtv on the cover and rear, good time to clean and repaint the cover. Clean all the bolts too. Install the cover.
Get the ford friction modifier from the dealer.
I used mobil 1 synthetic 75w90.
You will need to buy a cheap pump about 5 bucks at autozone to fill it back up. Fill it until it starts to come out the fill drain, apply alittle rtv on the threads on the fill plug when finished. Smells awesome!
You will need to buy a cheap pump about 5 bucks at autozone to fill it back up. Fill it until it starts to come out the fill drain, apply alittle rtv on the threads on the fill plug when finished. Smells awesome!
I've been filling rears for years, (easy Gator) never needed a pump, not sure why it would be needed.
no need to put anything on the fill plug... rtv certainly won't help threads seal, all you're doing is putting in the rear- for the gears to churn. If you feel you MUST add something, add the black 2b sealer, or a thin wrap of thread tape... but there's really no reason for that either. it's a pipe thread. it will seal just fine without anything on it.
best way to add friction modifier? just add to one of the bottles of oil?? I will just put the oil in the same way that i did for the f150 using a tube and none of that pump garbage.
JP
I've been filling rears for years, (easy Gator) never needed a pump, not sure why it would be needed.
no need to put anything on the fill plug... rtv certainly won't help threads seal, all you're doing is putting in the rear- for the gears to churn. If you feel you MUST add something, add the black 2b sealer, or a thin wrap of thread tape... but there's really no reason for that either. it's a pipe thread. it will seal just fine without anything on it.
That's one of the things that probably keeps me from changing out diff oil more often than I do. It's the miserable angle you have to get in and all the work involved with refilling the diff. My hands ache for days afterward. I'm not sure if a pump would be worth it, or not, because of cleanup. I'll probably get one when the shop is up and running, as I'll then have a lift and getting under the car will be so much easier.
But yes, definitely make _certain_ you can get the fill plug out FIRST before you start the drain. I've had times when I've had to go get a bigger tool to do the job, and it is kind of hard to go when your sitting there with all the gear oil in a pan.
I use a gasket, but that's just me. I will usually put a little bead of gasket sealer on the gasket, it seems to help the gasket come off easier next time.
I never knew the factory fill procedure. It's nice to know, but I usually just put the friction modifier in a bottle of lube and squeeze it in until full. I figure with the car on jack stands and the diff lowered a bit for easier access, it's probably getting more than a 'to the line' fill anyway.
I've used a gasket on all 3 of our stock SVOs. If you're running the stock differential, the gasket part number is Felpro RDS55393.
Instead of using a pump of lube direct from the bottle, I use the friction modifier bottle to fill the diffy-just fill with gear lube, empty into diffy, and repeat until the diffy level is correct. Takes a bit longer, but it works.
Odd, when I took my avitar picture I owned the black SVO...now I own the blue SVO.
Now would also be a good time to stick a finger down in the bottom of the housing to check for metal shavings or general crud. There is a small depressed area directly below the ring gear.
I'll wipe the inside as dry as possible before putting the cover back on but then again I'm complusive like that...
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