My crappy SVO

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Chris Chalky berated me in a PM to start this thread. I don't have a bunch of photos but I'll post what I have now and more later.

First let me post some pics of what this car looked like when it was on Ebay where I over paid about $4000 more than it was worth...

Notice the green carpet, ruined leather steering stuff, missing shifter, two tone spoiler, missing fuzzy panels (these were the originals painted black over most of the missing fuzz) ETC. The second to last photo is one with the correct spoilers and new Cobra wheels.

The hatch was a rusted shell with about a half inch of bondo hiding the rust. The lower spoiler was held on with screws installed from "outside" the spoiler through holes drilled through the hatch and there were only two mounting points left under the lower. The paint on the car was new but there was no prep work done before the spray job. The electronics were shot and I had to replace everything from the VAM to the injectors and EEC.

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more stuff

After replacing all the electronics I went to work on the interior stuff I could do. I've never been a concours correct purist if it was too cost prohibitive so close was good enough for me. First I replaced the leather shift boot with a FRPP model which lacks the Hurst imprint and replaced the shifter with a leather Cobra model. Chris Chalky sold me some reflocked dash panels an on they went. I got a recovered steering wheel from Bob Tweedy and lucked into a NOS horn pad on Ebay for $50. A couple of months ago I replaced the carpet with a trimparts carpet. I didn't do the best job that could be done, partly because I'm sloppy and impatient but also partly because I have got all sorts of thick cabling and other stuff hidden under the carpet.

On the exterior I replaced the upper and lower with good used pieces I found around various sites. Some months later I saw an ad for an SVO hatch that was rust free (supposedly). I had a local body shop prep it and spray it to match my color as closely as they could. It's a hair off but I've got more body work to do that will be way worse so no worries.

I'll post photos of the interior later.

Edit;
Another thing I forgot to add... I installed the MD R134 AC system. Really nice setup.

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Now onto the performance/mechanical side of things. In no particular order.

Exhaust mods;
initially a ported E6 and Stinger full 3" exhaust and muffler
later Bobslog with MD 3" downpipe to replace the Stinger downpipe. Later still an external waste gate.

Engine mods:
MD prepped head with big valves and bowl work but no porting. Flows better than stock but not as good as a BoPort Stage 2 head. maybe around a stage 1 but I doubt it.
Cam was upgraded with an A237 and later a BoPort 1.5
I have a CheapHP adjustable cam gear
MadAdder Powder coated valve cover.
New timing belt.

Intake;
I installed a 40Bobs fully ported (but not gutted) TC intake and brown tops which were shortly replaced by 52lb injectors which were replaced by 72lb injectors a couple of months ago. I later replaced the TC intake with an 40Bob Ported and gutted SVO intake.

Electronics;
I replaced the TE computer with an LA3 and later with a MS1. I'm about to upgrade to an MS2 with direct coil control to help eliminate the TFI issues that everyone sometimes has and also let me get more from the coil which is a Mallory brand that replaced the Crane I had in there.
I replaced the fuel pump with a 255lph inline instead of an in tank model.

Suspension and drivetrain;
I replaced the VERY worn out 7.5 with a new FRPP 8.8 with 3.73 gears.
The front calipers, rotors and pads have been replaced with NAPA stuff except for the Hawks pads. The calipers had a steel piston.
The Driveshaft has been replaced with an FRPP aluminum shaft. (OMG there were only three bolts holding the original on and one was loose!!)
The springs are Eibach (I hate them, anyone want to trade for B springs?) and they sit WAY too low in the back causing me to have to install Granatelli weight jacker (adjustable) rear control arms to get the ride height back to where it was drivable. The quality of the Granatelli arms is SH*T. Buyer Beware. Next time I'm going with maximum motorsports.
Front control arms are Fatman Fabrications tubular SVO replacement arms.
The Sway bar has urethane bushings.
The shifter has been upgraded to a Steeda TriAx with Steeda handle.

Turbo and IC;
The turbo is an Evergreen custom T3/T04B U-trim with Stage 3 turbine wheel and a turbonetics turbine housing. (It replaced a T3/T04B V-trim with a stage 1 turbine) I'm not happy with it and I wish I hadn't let Charlie talk me into it but ultimately it was my decision and don't blame him at all. His service is beyond impeccable and i'll do business with him again. All who want to upgrade to a T3 hybrid heed these words: DO YOUR HOMEWORK BEFORE BUYING A TURBO. If you do you will find that most likely the *best* most efficient turbo for your 23./2.5 motor is a T3/T04E 50 trim with a stage 2 or 3 turbine wheel. If you are leaving the T3 family there are a lot of really good turbos that will work even better.
The intercooler is the complete SuperCoupe setup. I have just about decided to go with a Stinger FMIC. I want to go back to a stock size radiator. I have no idea how a super charged V6 was kept cool by a 15x15 two core radiator. There is no way this thing would be effective on my SVO under continuous high speed driving. Maybe if I could find a replacement in aluminum... The IC is pretty good up to abut 350HP or so (I've been told it will go to 400 but I have my doubts) but there is pressure drop because its high density of turbulators. It's a garrett core FWIW.


Misc;
I replaced the very rusted out gas tank with one from a '93.
I had my insurance company replace my broken windshield which is now broken *again*. Even though hurricane Ike was pretty for away something blew into it and cracked my less than a year old windshield.

These are under hood and intercooler pics. One is as it was on Ebay. That's the one where everything looks wet and clean. Over the next few days I'll post more pics as I take them of some of the stuff done. Please ignore my wiring going everywhere...


EDIT;
I completely forgot that I installed a Taurus 2 speed fan. It pulls 3800 CFM at max speed and 2900 on low speed. I had to modify the shroud considerably to get it close to matching the SC radiator. I used a DC Controller from DC control. If you upgrade to one of these or a Lincoln fan I highly recommend the controller. There are cheaper ways to do it but not better. Regardless you have to use at least a 75A relay to manage it.

I also forgot the mention the 60MM SC TB prepped by 40Bob.

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Future stuff

I guess a project thread isn't complete without something on what's next.

As I mentioned earlier I'll probably go with the Stinger FMIC in the next month or so. I want to go back to the OEM radiator but plan to go with an aluminum eventually. I'll probably go with the TMD aluminum since it is an exact OEM replacement and will work with everything that comes in a Mustang. It even works with original mounting hardware.

I'm going to replace the turbo with a turbonetics t3/t40e sometime next year.

I'm replacing the transmission with a V8 model with .72 overdrive. Hanlon can supply this for around $1000. This mod is a bit off in the future.

A BoPort head or an RHEA head is in the future as well.

Once I get the performance where I want it I'll get the body work done and get it painted again. This will probably be in 2010 though.

At some point I'll need to reupholster the seats. When I bought the car they were great but since I've been driving it regularly the leather and vinyl is wearing and I even have a tear in the drivers seat now.

[chalkys_explorer]

Thanks Guy, have been wanting to see what you've been doing for ages. If you're looking for an OE replacement ali radiator, try the Mishimoto.

I'd love to read more about the MS install as well.

BTW Chalky is the nickmane, my last name is Chalk. Don't worry, everybody gets confused

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BTW Chalky is the nickmane, my last name is Chalk. Don't worry, everybody gets confused

Ha! I knew that! I just forgot that I knew that.

I'd love to read more about the MS install as well.

This is an easy one. I bought the (now defunct) BABMFuel kit and made the necessary wiring changes. really easy and straight forward since the kit uses the Mega Scott EEC adapter board. It plugs right into the EEc plug. The only thing challenging at all was wiring up my wideband and digital gauge. I use the wideband input into the MS full time for AFR management but this isn't really necessary once the engine is tuned.

The MS2 I have was built by Turbodad on Turbo ford and it's a completely self contained system inside an EEC box. The Bama Fuel setup is in several boxes with a hefty set of cables. The under dash install is really sloppy because there's not a lot of room. The MS2 (Scott calls it an LA5) will entirely fit where the OEM EEC fits.

I haven't installed it yet because I have the MS1 really well tuned and I'm used to the process. The MS2 is significantly different.