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I removed the original (including board etc). Took the cardboard to a local Upholstry shop. Don't even bother trying to find a vinyl material (see: HEADACHE). They found a simular looking cloth material to match, cut it and applied it to the cardboard with heavy duty glue for me. Total cost to me: $25.00. I re-installed the new headliner. Had the entire process done on my other SVO (labor included) for $60.00. IOW, find a local UPH-shop... take your SVO to them and ask for an estimate.
I actually replaced the headliner myself and it wasn't too bad.
The cloth on mine was in good condition but the foam had delaminated and it was sagging pretty bad in a few places. I contemplated using thumb tacks and adding fuzzy dice to my rear view but decided replacement was the better option. I went to my local fabric wholesaler and they actually had a book of foam backed fabric for headliner applications. I found one that was "close" and went on my way.
Stripping the old nasty foam off the headliner backer board was the worse part. You have to use a wire brush and it makes an absolute mess. Once I had it clean, I sprayed industrial spray adhesive heavily on both the backer board and the foam side of the new fabric. I taped the backer board to a table so that the creased sides laid flat (this gives you the ability to make the nice neat tucks in the corners when you fold it up) I laid the fabric on the board and smoothed it out with my hands.
I then took the tape off and folded up the sides slightly. If you don't get nice sharp lines like the original, run a smooth thin object like the back of a comb down the crease. This should straighten it out for you. Your going to have to make razor knife cuts for the dome light and visors etc. Pull the fabric into the notches in the corners and your ready to reinstall.
Late Model Restoration Supply has an exact match that you can do yourself. It comes with more than enough fabric / foam composite, small brass wire wheel, and a can of spray glue. I have done the headliner on my 90 LX and except for it being black fabric it is the same process. I'm about 99% sure they have the correct color / SVO grey available. It was fairly inexpensive...
I did something bad last week ---
I went to a Ford dealership, and bought a new 2003 Mustang.
it has 2-tone light and dark grey interior (the dark is almost black in most places) -- Anyway, the material on the headliner looks VERY close to what the SVO has in it.
To fix an upper spoiler that has seperated along the seam, first take it off the car. Check to see if it has gotten water inside which causes the foam it is filled with to swell and seperate even more. If it has water in the foam, turn it on end and leave it to dry out for a week or two. This will cause the swelling to go down so you can put it back together.
In order to fix the separation you will need several tubes of super glue gel (don't use the regular it will run all over the place and disfigure the surface of the spoiler). Using two people and several golf tees or wooden pencils, spread the seam apart where it has seperated and insert the golf tees or pencils to hold it apart while you apply the glue. Carefully, apply the gel superglue to the inside edges of the separated seam. DO NOT GET ANY GLUE ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE SPOILER! Apply it only to the inside edges of the seam. Work slowly along the seam split a few inches at a time, pulling out the golf tees or pencils after you have applied the glue and press them together. Hold the seam edges together while the glue cures by wrapping duct tape around the spoiler or use woodworking clamps. Let it cure for an hour or so, before removing the tape or clamps. Any excess glue on the seam can be cleaned up by sanding carefully with 320 grit sandpaper.
The superglue gel melts into and forms a joint on the polycarbonate spoiler material that is far stronger than the original. You will be surprised how much stiffer the upper spoiler will be.
I used this proceedure on my 84 SVO nine years and 40K+ miles ago and haven't had any problems since!
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