8.8 Turbo Coupe swap issue

[MeZapU]

I performed the swap today on my SVO. It all went quite well. Right up to the point where I lowered the car to the ground. When I did that the car was riding high in the rear to the point of there being 3-4" of clearance room the top of the tire to the fender. The suspension would not compress any more. Turned out to be the quad shocks were at their short limit.

I measured the quad shock brackets and transferred over the measurements from my original axle. Maybe I did something wrong in the way I measured the holes in relation to the difference of the way the brackets are mounted to the axle. I removed the quad shocks for now but am wondering what can be done to make it work.

[Meotchh]

I performed the swap today on my SVO. It all went quite well. Right up to the point where I lowered the car to the ground.

So you torqued the control arms with the rear end in the air & suspension at full travel?

Done that before while in a rush with the same results.

[SLAAER]

Loosen all the control arms have the weight of the car on the rear an tighten the bolts back up. AKA jack stands under the rear tubes. Should fix your issue.

[caroth]

If you drill another hole in those quad shock brackets on the TC rear and put the quad shock down right next to the axle tube, they will fit. Otherwise, you can cut the quad mount bracket off with a torch and reclock it.

[Erics SVO]

Try what SLAAER says. I went through this on my TC.

[MeZapU]

Its not the control arms. I'm ahead of the curve as far as that goes. The suspension effectively locked against the quad shocks as they wouldn't compress any more.

I wonder as to how much range the quad shocks have to compress on the stock rear axle at the normal installed/ride height position. If I know that info I could effectively drill a new hole and give it the proper range of travel without guessing.

[SLAAER]

or u could buy a set of aftermarket control arms an not use the quad shocks period

[Meotchh]

Its not the control arms. I'm ahead of the curve as far as that goes. The suspension effectively locked against the quad shocks as they wouldn't compress any more.

I wonder as to how much range the quad shocks have to compress on the stock rear axle at the normal installed/ride height position. If I know that info I could effectively drill a new hole and give it the proper range of travel without guessing.

So if you remove the QS, the suspension settles properly?

[MeZapU]

So if you remove the QS, the suspension settles properly?

Yep. It settled fine without the quad shocks and rides and drives nice.

[CFARRELL]

now I know why my rear end swap and spring change is higher than factory. All that with a 2" lowering spring

[BrianO]

aren't the quad brackets angled differently on the TC rear end? I could have sworn I read that on here in one of the threads. I have a TC rear sitting in the shed and a buddy and myself compared it and the quad mounts are different. that is probably why it bound up right there.

[Special Fred]

aren't the quad brackets angled differently on the TC rear end? I could have sworn I read that on here in one of the threads.

They sure are. I didn't read that on here, but used to own a Turbo Coupe; and the brackets located the lower quadshock bolt in a higher position than on Mustang rear ends. As Caroth suggested, new holes could be drilled. I would suggest using a template made from the correct bracket.

[Alex L]

or u could buy a set of aftermarket control arms an not use the quad shocks period

+1 i switched up to poly/heim upper/lowers and everything was smoooth sailing. (and a lot louder) removal of quad shocks and bracketry took off a good 5lbs

[MeZapU]

They sure are. I didn't read that on here, but used to own a Turbo Coupe; and the brackets located the lower quadshock bolt in a higher position than on Mustang rear ends. As Caroth suggested, new holes could be drilled. I would suggest using a template made from the correct bracket.

Drilling holes that would allow the quad shocks to work would place them at a poor performing orientation. The hole would be so low and near the axle tube centerline that their effectiveness would be practically worthless. The only real solution (if you wanted to keep the quad shocks), is to cut off the brackets and re-weld them in the proper working position to the mustang.

I measured the original axle brackets and transferred the hole location to the new axle here in the pic. Unfortunately the bracket orientation was not as easily evident so it was all for not.

[Bruce]

After searching on here and TF I'm thinking of doing away with the quads. My upper arms are poly on the frame and rubber on the axel. The lowers are bearing on the frame and poly on the axel. Does this sound like it will be strong enough without the quads? From what I have read the lower mounting point of a redrilled TC bracket won't do much anyway. Also I saw someone cut down the Quad mounts on the TC after drilling them. Is this needed? Do the taller mounts interfear with body at bottom? Opinions appreciated, thanks Bruce