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Well, I know what Paul would tell you--- Global west ---
and I now see why paul likes their stuff so much --- compared to the other stuff out there.. the global west stuff is made much better than anything else I have seen. I can't speak specifically for panhard bars, but so far, I have used subframe connectors, and caster/camber plates from them, and they are EXCELENT quality.
That's about all the advice I can give you, because I just don't have much experience with that stuff..
I can tell you from experience from buying a svo with one on it--DONT DO IT!!! The thing made more noise than you could ever imagine. I took it off and laid it to rest in my basement. And it wasnt a cheep one either. If im not mistaken, its a kenny brown bar. In fact when I change my rear end to an 8.8 you can have this on real cheap. Their is two mounting points that have brackets one the rear end. I dont have an impact to get them off so i dont have those two pieces off the car. Just let me know if you want it.
Yes, I want it for my '88 LX SVO copy car. I want to use it for Open Track. The car is a street car, but since between both cars I only manage 3k a year total, most of it's travels will be running down to a track here and there.
I really got the bug bad during last years reunion and can't wait to finish up this car, it handles a lot better than my SVO. I read somewhere where Bud mentioned in hard cornering he could see his wheels actually moving in and out of the fender wells - and of course we all know this is a weak link in the Fox Bodies.
Aggravating was even my buddies V6 Camaro came w/ a Panhard Bar Stock.
I think it will be a good addition to finishing the suspension up.
Normally I don't list mods but the suspension has: Koni reds front and rear, a Herb Addams front swaybar with solid endlinks, it's massive, supposedy 4 x stiffer than a GT bar. Adjustable Addco rear bar mounted to the subframe. Strut Tower Brace, caster camber plates, subframe connectors, lowered about 2" and 17" Cobra copies on some decent Kuhmo's.
So I'm figuring these last two items would finish it up nicely. I'm certainly not a suspension tuner, so I need the input.
Thanks again.
I'd be interested in picking up the used one mentioned above if it could be clarified why it was noisy?
These are supposed to be welded in to be done correctly?
Actually, If you put in aftermarket rear control arms, with stiffer bushings, it will eliminate a lot of the "back and forth" movement of the rear end.
I'd recomend a visit to www.corner-carvers.com for a LOT of info. on handling.
Will a panhard bar work in your application? Yes, definitely. However, the Kenny Brown old style panhard bar has the cross brace attaching to the spare tire well on the outside, with bolts and large washers, so I would stay away from those ones.
Try a Maximum Motorsport or Griggs panhard bar, you will not be disappointed...Using stiffer rear bushings could increase the bind in the rear suspension, which could cause a snap oversteer condition when you really push it hard in the corners. I've used the Maximum Motorsport rear arms with great success.
Instead of a rear shock tower brace, why not a 4 point roll bar instead? If you can find the ones that attach to the shock tower area in the rear, you can add a brace for the shock towers at that time. Also, you'll be able to mount a proper shoulder harness if you get the cross brace at the main hoop as well. Try an Autopower rollbar if you need a bolt in; better still, find a race car shop and have them custom bend a rollbar and weld one in.
About the only other suggestion I could make is to get a G-load brace for the front crossmember; I think you'll find a nice improvement in the front suspension with one.
Go with the 4 point Maximum Motorsport K-member brace...fits well, built well, and works well...
As for the rear shock tower brace, I don't think it'll make too much difference. I found a bit more rigidity in the back when I installed the MM panhard bar, as it attaches to both frame rails underneath. If possible, get the frame rail mounts tack welded in place after you're sure of the install.
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