View Full Version : Battery relocation question

10-15-2017, 10:27 AM
Going through everything I have it mounted and ready to run the cables. The new negative battery cable that comes with the kit has the small wire also attached (pic). Directions don't saying about what to do with that wire. Just says ground it to the frame in the rear of the car. I know to also ground the old negative cable under the hood. So is this "extra ground" needed? If anyone has done this on their SVO give me pointers.... Thanks

10-15-2017, 01:57 PM
to answer your question, yes the large gauge wire should be grounded to the block of the engine, while the smaller gauge should be grounded to the frame.
I've seen weird gremlins when that ground to the body was not there.

now for advice you didn't ask for :)
if you're putting the battery inside, (trunk/hatch isn't isolated from the rest of the passenger compartment in an SVO) make sure you're using an optima or sealed cell battery. even then, it's best to have a sealed box for the battery, that vents through the floor.
Battery fumes are not something you want to have in the passenger compartment.

A bit more advice you didn't ask for..
on the positive wire, Use loom or rubber gromets on areas that could cause the positive wire to rub.
Make sure it's fused!! on a run that long, I'd fuse on both ends!

10-15-2017, 11:07 PM
I purchased the UPR kit so it is a sealed box with appropriate ventilation. The kit didnít come with fuse links but I have been reading it's a good idea to have them so I plan on adding those. I was only going to install one in the rear but your saying to add one up front too? Any idea what amp fuse I should use?

10-15-2017, 11:50 PM
I've seen some fancy ones, that have a circuit breaker, rather than a fuse, I think those are best way to go...
here's an 80 amp I found on Amazon -- I hate linking to stuff that may be gone in a month, so here's what it looks like

Lots of different opinions on what size you need. My thought is, you need the size of your alternator.
SVO's came stock with a 65 amp alternator,.
upgrade kits are out there up to 130 (maybe more now)

Reasoning I say, fuse BOTH SIDES...
Battery supplies voltage to all the important bits ----- fuse on the battery side, in case of short.
The alternator supplies voltage to the battery -------- fuse on the engine compartment side, in case of short.

Having that breaker on both sides makes it very easy to kill power from either side of the car should you need to do it quickly.

10-16-2017, 01:14 PM
And yet MORE information you didn't ask for. I'd recommend foregoing all that, with the potential associated issues with running a car from the battery in the trunk, and just go with a lighter battery up front. I opted for an Odyssey PC925, which is probably overkill for the 2.3L turbo engine, but was certainly lighter than the OEM battery. Some info here:


**Edited to link to post 104

10-16-2017, 09:27 PM
To late for that already bought the kit. Little back story. I had a "no start" the other day and was like WTF, the cars been running great now I got nothing. Fuel pump would turn on but completely dead. I got kinda lucky. I decided to take the battery out when I noticed a loose wire. A closer look that wire pulled out of the voltage regulator. So I fixed that but also noticed the battery tray was cracked pretty bad at the hold down clamp, like I over tightened it. So it was $50 for a new battery tray or $150 for the relocation kit. This has been a upgrade I've been wanting to do for a while because now I have room for a new "better looking" over flow bottle and move my catch can to the driver side too. Anyway thanks for the advise