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Curt C
11-02-2017, 06:58 PM
Hello. I have owned / modified several Mustangs but I can't tell you how thrilled I am to own one of these little gems: 1985; white; 59K; almost stock (K&N cone, Magnaflow muffler) and well cared for. My plans are to basically keep it stock, RR some suspension bits and drive it like it should be. I will enter the registry shortly. As a long time member of the Corral and Corner Carvers sites I look forward to learning from you and sharing tech where possible. I will be dredging up some old posts shortly. :spin:

svono50
11-02-2017, 08:25 PM
Welcome Curt, glad to have you here! Sounds like you got a great unit there, certainly light on the miles and appears to have had an easy life. Let us know your questions and hopefully we can help you come up to speed on this unique model. I too have been a long-time lurker/member of CC and the old RRAX list server.

GAboySVO
11-02-2017, 09:59 PM
Welcome. Some of Maximum Motorsports chassis stiffening add-on will help improve the handling and body flex.

JTurbo has a project zone write up on replacing the ball joint, although with on 59K miles, yours still a lot of life left in em.

JTurbo
11-03-2017, 03:58 PM
Welcome to SVOCA :bash: (oops, not FEP) - feel free to post up some pics of you ride(s). Both the SVO and the Saleen (I love all four eyed Mustangs) :thumb:

WRT the ball joints - this service is no longer available. Unfortunately the guy I had been working with is not able to do them any longer.

SVOeric
11-03-2017, 11:29 PM
LOL Joe, you might be lost, this one isn't FEP (it's cool, I know you hang out at both), but as you said, it's all good, post up pics of all of your stangs. we all love them!

Curt C
11-04-2017, 11:47 AM
Thanks. Photos attached. Quick question. I dont want to tear this car up but I believe it could greatly improve from some tasteful suspension modifications. With 59K this car does show its age a bit albeit it has been well maintained and always garaged. The mechanicals have really been well maintained. But its not collector status right? If I were to add a Monte Carlo bar, G-load 4pt brace and sub-frame connectors would that diminish the value? They could be easily be removed but the Monte Carlo bar and sub-frame connectors would leave a small foot print.

Edit. I did not tear the Saleen up. The former owner did. When I got it it was a track car with Griggs, T56, 351W, roll bar etc. I added an aluminum 408W and Stoptech brakes. 1986-0045 is a beast. It will never be a stock car unless one wanted to spend stupid amounts of money restoring it.

SVOeric
11-04-2017, 12:03 PM
:D had a white 84, with that exact paint scheme. Was originally a v6 auto, converted to a 4-cyl stick, but that brought back some memories.

That Saleen got serious suspension, bet it's a good time at the track. With all those mods to the Saleen guys even let you hang out with them ?

Curt C
11-04-2017, 03:01 PM
Ha. Saleen purists ignore me. Funny because I guarantee Steve would love my car.


The set back K, Watts link, torque arm and cambered 8.8 rear make it a a different car. It’s not a Mustang anymore. Depending on the driver and mods it can be competitive with corvettes, vipers etc. 550 HP and TQ. It’s way faster than I am.

GAboySVO
11-05-2017, 08:49 AM
I don't think the mods you suggested for the suspension will adversely affect the value. We are not the MCA here and a lot of guy have resto-mods. SVOs were meant to be driven. And mods that help keep it out of trouble when driving help saves the car in my opinion.

svono50
11-05-2017, 01:46 PM
I agree with the mods you mentioned, nothing there that wouldn't be considered 'normal' or expected on our cars. Only the super-low mileage cars would see a hit in value with modifications (i.e.- less than 10,000), above that they all seem to fall into a similar value bucket. I also agree with Mike that true upgrades only help the value to the next owner. I have certainly spent a fair amount of time under the rear of my car adding bits and pieces, which makes me smile more when I am on the track.

Your Saleen certainly looks like a beast, very serious mods under the skin for sure! Love the look of the stance, 3-pc wheels and the cowl hood, spot on for a great looking 4-eye.

Curt C
11-05-2017, 07:07 PM
Thanks Gentlemen. I will be calling Jack at MM tomorrow to make sure their G load brace and sub frame connectors will bolt / weld on with minimal effort.

Curt

JTurbo
11-05-2017, 08:40 PM
LOL Joe, you might be lost, this one isn't FEP (it's cool, I know you hang out at both), but as you said, it's all good, post up pics of all of your stangs. we all love them!

I'm Soooo confused sometimes....

Thanks for posting pics. I love that Saleen.

And I say mod-away with the SVO and enjoy the car.

svono50
11-06-2017, 01:24 PM
Thanks Gentlemen. I will be calling Jack at MM tomorrow to make sure their G load brace and sub frame connectors will bolt / weld on with minimal effort.

Curt

I can say their 4-pt brace bolts in without any real issues, not sure about their sub-frames as I am running the Kenny Brown double-cross connectors, which are welded in. Only issue I had with the 4-pt brace was the curled edges of the K-member had to be flattened out a bit for clearance, nothing unique to the SVO.

Curt C
11-07-2017, 12:18 PM
I can say their 4-pt brace bolts in without any real issues, not sure about their sub-frames as I am running the Kenny Brown double-cross connectors, which are welded in. Only issue I had with the 4-pt brace was the curled edges of the K-member had to be flattened out a bit for clearance, nothing unique to the SVO.

I have several BFH's for massaging purposes. I ordered those M&M pieces along with a new rag joint, sway bar bushings and end links as they were starting to rot a bit. That will be a good start. The shocks work okay but are near the end of their lives. I have the fronts and rears on full stiff and the ride is still very compliant.

Quick question: Why are the old threads all closed? Is that just for newbies?

Edit: Hey I got 4psi of boost now! hehe.

SVOeric
11-07-2017, 01:51 PM
anything older than a year is closed... lotta people seem to think it's OK to post their troubleshooting questions into old threads. Just keeps it a bit cleaner that way.

svono50
11-07-2017, 08:17 PM
I have several BFH's for massaging purposes. I ordered those M&M pieces along with a new rag joint, sway bar bushings and end links as they were starting to rot a bit. That will be a good start. The shocks work okay but are near the end of their lives. I have the fronts and rears on full stiff and the ride is still very compliant.

Quick question: Why are the old threads all closed? Is that just for newbies?

Edit: Hey I got 4psi of boost now! hehe.

No BFH needed for the 'adjustment' on the 4-pt, I just used a small adjustable wrench to fold the edge down a bit (see below).

45867 45868

gbeaird
11-10-2017, 04:58 PM
I can say their 4-pt brace bolts in without any real issues, not sure about their sub-frames as I am running the Kenny Brown double-cross connectors, which are welded in. Only issue I had with the 4-pt brace was the curled edges of the K-member had to be flattened out a bit for clearance, nothing unique to the SVO.

Not finding many pictures of that 4-point installed, but could one save money by using the factory Turbo Coupe rear k-member brace? It fits without any issues.

But yeah, these things flex about as much as a 3rd Gen F-body, so SFCs will be very useful! And yes, as Mike said, there are several resto-mod cars here. Our 86 is one (although it's in perpetual 'project' mode). Welcome!

svono50
11-10-2017, 09:59 PM
Not finding many pictures of that 4-point installed, but could one save money by using the factory Turbo Coupe rear k-member brace? It fits without any issues.
<snip>

Interesting Gene, here are a couple more for ya then! Any brace under there could help, you are trying to keep the rear a-arm suspension points from squeezing in when cornering, if there is a factory part that could be used for cheap, then why not. The MM piece was reasonable in price and was one of the easiest mods to install.

45869 45870

Curt C
11-11-2017, 08:37 PM
Interesting regarding the Turbo Coupe brace. I searched but could not find a picture. Does it fit the front K or rear K on the Fox platform. The MM brace went in without much issue. I had to elongate one of the rear holes to get the 5\8 bolt through. I also replaced the rag joint with the popular Dorman (aka Help!) piece. Next up is sub-frame connectors, sway bar bushes and end links. I am also ordering new Koni shocks. The others are not acceptable even on full firm. I can compress the front by hand without issue and it cycles, albeit it slightly, more than once. I like the progressive H&R springs from what I have read. Ugh. This hod rod virus is unrelenting!

gbeaird
11-15-2017, 11:07 AM
I guess I should get a picture so that can be recorded here. But yes, the TC brace keeps the back of the K-member from flexing inward under braking and cornering maneuvers. It's a direct bolt-on, and if you pull one off a TC in a junk yard, grabbing the bolt and j-nut make it a 5-minute install. No one would ever know it didn't come from the factory that way.

fast Ed
11-15-2017, 05:08 PM
The aftermarket 2-point crossmember braces, which would fit and function similarly to the factory TC brace, can usually be found pretty cheap too. I got an unused one from a local Mustang club member for $40 and put that on recently.


cheers
Ed

gbeaird
12-02-2017, 05:16 PM
I guess I should get a picture so that can be recorded here. But yes, the TC brace keeps the back of the K-member from flexing inward under braking and cornering maneuvers. It's a direct bolt-on, and if you pull one off a TC in a junk yard, grabbing the bolt and j-nut make it a 5-minute install. No one would ever know it didn't come from the factory that way.

Since I was spending a little quality time with the car this weekend, I got the front end up on ramps (to investigate some sort of oil leak), and got a picture of the TC K-member brace:

45878

Sorry for the crappy cell phone pic, and the really nasty underside of the car. One of the projects that didn't get done this last week was to get the car out, pull the radiator, and really start cleaning things up in the front of the engine bay and underside. That didn't happen........

Curt C
12-23-2017, 02:36 PM
Update:


I got the new Konis and H&R springs into place and the car rides much better. Sub frame connectors, new Hawk HPS pads and steel braided hoses have given me the confidence to drive this vehicle around town at speeds above the posted limit if you will. I like unique drivers and this one fits the bill.


The car does have a somewhat sluggish throttle response at low RPM. Boost doesn’t kick in until around 2,500 RPM or 2,800 RPM depending on gear and speed. Sometimes if I mat it at low RPM it falls on its face and bogs. Timing is at 10 degrees and TPS is set at .93. I have installed new Motorcraft plugs (AGSF32C) and pcv. It drives great when warm and I upshift it at 3,500 or so bringing it back to 2,500. Perhaps I am used to higher low end torque with my other vehicles. It does appear to have a larger 2.5 inch down pipe and a K&N cone filter. Will these mods cause the engine to lose some down low torque in favor of more HP?

SVOeric
12-23-2017, 05:32 PM
The larger downpipe won't increase or decrease torque. The restriction is at the turbo.

What you are describing is pretty normal. When I was running the ranger roller cam straight up, boost would start at about 1500, and reach full boost about 2000-2100, but falls flat on it's face at 5k.
These engines aren't going to have a lot of torque below about 1600 rpm, it's not a 5 liter you can run around at 1200 rpm, it's just not made that way.

svono50
12-23-2017, 10:54 PM
Curt, it certainly sounds like your car is running pretty 'normal' for an SVO. Our little 2.3L's are not going to hold any kind of candle to your other Fox, just the truth of the matter, you just have to keep things above 3000rpm to get things boiling. I have only driven a couple of 85's, which are a little lower HP than my 86, but I remember all SVO's to be a bit 'soft' below 3000 rpm. Your boost curve sounds like what it should for an 85, where the power level really jumps and the turbo lag is very present. This issue was addressed with the 85.5/86 models with a different turbo, but not eliminated.

The larger DP will not hurt your bottom end, it should help bring on the boost a bit sooner and stronger, which can only help. Adding a 3" DP on my stock at the time 86 knocked off a solid 1/2 second in the 1/4 mile, but my trap speed remained flat. This tells you that the HP level didn't change, only where the HP occurred, which helped the ET and the feel on the street.

If you don't mind, report on which specific H&R springs and the ride height difference when you get a chance. Thanx and enjoy the ride!

Curt C
12-24-2017, 02:33 PM
Happy Holidays.


I understand the need to drive at higher RPM’s. Just confirming. I do wish the throttle response was a little faster. I can quickly mat it in neutral and there is a hesitation. Makes heal toe driving a bit difficult. I heal toe in all my cars to stay in practice. Can one quicken that response easily? Aftermarket boost controller?


The H&R springs are the Sport Spring. See link below. I did not measure the drop but I estimate and inch or so. The stance looks good. http://www.hrsprings.com/application/search/results/11/263/1986/

SVOeric
12-24-2017, 10:14 PM
Far as the hesitation, would have to hear it to tell for sure. it's hard to explain what 'timing lag' sounds like, but it's like art, I know it when I see (hear) it.
What does happen some-time, head / block gets milled--- this reduces the distance between the crank and cam, which means the cam is running slower in time than it should. There are ways to zero the cam, and use an adjustable cam gear to compensate, IF that is the issue. -- big IF, cause this is a very wild guess.

aftermarket boost controller will make no difference (assuming waste-gate actuator, and flapper valve are all in working order)
it will allow you to adjust max boost, might help with boost spikes, but as far as making boost come on sooner, it's not going to help.

SVOeric
12-24-2017, 10:26 PM
feeling like a bit more boost explanation is in order..

so the waste-gate looks like this.
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the flapper valve you see on the right side stays closed, until enough boost is reached that the waste gate actuator, (that attaches to the round arm you see at the top of that image) pushes the flapper valve open, and allows boost to bleed off.

Boost controllers simply control when the waste-gate actuator opens this flapper valve. It stays closed until boost is built, so there is no way a boost controller can bring boost on faster.

GAboySVO
12-26-2017, 09:51 AM
Happy Holidays.
I understand the need to drive at higher RPM’s. Just confirming. I do wish the throttle response was a little faster. I can quickly mat it in neutral and there is a hesitation. Makes heal toe driving a bit difficult. I heal toe in all my cars to stay in practice. Can one quicken that response easily? Aftermarket boost controller?

The best way to improve rev response is to reduce the rotational mass. An aluminum flywheel and driveshaft are available on the aftermarket.

GAboySVO
12-26-2017, 10:04 AM
Another thing you can do to reduce the bog is to only press the loud peddle to 3/4. At full throttle, the ECU dumps a lot of fuel and your a/f ratio drops to 10 causing loss of power.