Manual Boost Controller?

[Stang87]

Will the fule premium switch still operat with a manual boost controller or not? Thanks

[kiwi]

No.....

.....
the boost solenoid is tied into the pooter~setting of reg/prem switch/ I leave in prem mode for timing....

[Stang87]

so my timing will be off is i leave it in regular?

[kiwi]

Leave.......

......the wires connected to the solenoid.....

[svobud]

leave the prem switch on 'prem' for more aggressive timing delivery from the EEC.

[richsvo]

Stang87,

So, to answer your question, Yes it will still work. What they are advising is due to normally (most people) setting higher boost pressure with a manual valve, you will want the more aggressive timing that you will get from the computer in the "premium" mode on the switch.
I would also advise always running the highest grade of gas you can afford.

HTH,
Rich

[Stang87]

thanks fo the answer, i still want to switch to work just to drive around town and on rainy days so i can handle the car. I always run 93 or 94 and i am going to try and start putting in 100 octane in every month.

[turbizzy]

100 octane?

Man you guys are lucky, the highest around here in the bay area is 91! And thats all i run.

I have a manual bleeder valve but im concerned with boost spikes i keep getting. When i get on it hard from zero boost, it spikes to about 18 then settles back to about 14-15. I still have my BCS connected, should i unhook it from the wastegate plumbing and just rely on the bleeder valve?

BTW, I've mentioned this before but when i did my LA3 swap, i noticed in premium mode i only get about 10 psi. Its almost like my BCS isn't working anymore, wasnt an issue when i had my PJ in it. Thats why i got the bleeder. You guys really recommend the Ric Gillis, i guess its supposed to be the same as a bleeder although it doesn't give you full bleed right away, it does it gradually thus eliminating boost spike?

Also, i notice that even in my 50ish degree weather here, i still ping sometimes at WOT with 91 in it. It really won't ping if i have the cooling fan on manually all the time. I think i need a better intercooler huh? Or just better octane but where the hekk do i find it here?

[GAboySVO]

turbizzy,

It is my understanding that you have to disconnect the BCS when you do the LA3 swap. Remove the bcs from your circuit. The Gillis styled valve is like a pressure relief valve and should reduce your spiking.

You can make one yourself using parts from McMaster-Carr. There is a site out there that gives a step by step instructions. Do a google search for "boost controller".

As far as finding race gas, you can buy Sunoco race gas over the web. Some bike shops will have it as well. In SoCal, the sell it at select Unical 76 stations.

[turbizzy]

LA3 swap and BCS

Hmm, maybe. Oh but wait, i do remember that you do still use it.

6. Now swap the purple wire in #32 to pin #31 for boost control.

8. After that move the yellow with red stripe #30 wire to pin #24 for the octane switch to work.

This is off of GT350R's LA3 swap intructions .

I guess you do still use it since Step 6 says thats what its for and the fact that Step 8 is for making your premium fuel switch functional, thus controlling your BCS and timing i guess???

Anyways, i forgot to mention that i do have my KS disconnected and only when its unplugged is when it'll ping sometimes, duhh. But why does it ping specially in my kind of temp? If i do hook it up i notice a big ole difference like it hesitates and stuff, timing? When i check for codes i do get a KS code though, something about it not functioning?? Thats why i leave it unplugged.

[GAboySVO]

According to the gas Faq link on turboford, our 8:1 compresion ratio engines need 92 octane to prevent detonation. The variation in gas quality and age may be affecting your engine. You might do a web search for race gas to see who provides it in your area or add ~1/2 gal of Toulene to a tank of gas.