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  • 84 In tank fuel pump conversion

    I searched the forum and could not come up with much info on tis subject. Maybe someone can point me in the right direction or help me out. My 84 fuel pump went and I am replacing it with an in tank Walbro 255. I was going to use a tank from a 93 GT, because it has more capacity and is not belching out rust like the one on the SVO. I took the complete lines and fuel filter assembly from the 93 as well. I would like to replace the entire fuel line and run the metal GT lines instead, using the factory 93 fuel filter mounts. ( I am going to dual exhaust).
    What is the best way to go about this? I am probably barking up the wrong tree with the metal lines as I cannot figure a way to attach it the SVO ends, the 5.0 fuel line drops just above the passenger front K-member in the exhaust heat zone on the 2.3.
    NAPA has a fuel line that would allow me to run my own in plastic and I could go to a 3/8 line, would that be beneficial in the future (300HP goal) or a waste of time?
    Which sending unit should use for the fuel gauge, does the depth of the tank make a difference?
    www.photobucket.com/albums/f315/horseplayauto

  • #2
    Son, ya'll didn't look hard enuff....

    Try these:



    and



    Those should answer your q's. Are you sure the 93 tank is larger? Pretty sure all fox stang tanks were std ~15 gallons. Unless your very crafty, using 5.0 lines is not the answer. If your current lines are not damaged, a cleaning might be in order, otherwise they s/b quite sufficient well into the 350+ hp range.

    hth,
    -Mike Malone (svoca #416)
    84 9W / 85.5 9L / 86 2A

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    • #3
      I used a tank from a 94 Stang and it looked like the same exact dimensions. The only difference in the newer one was the thickness of the round plate that the sending unit was attached to. I used a fuel pump bracket from a 87-93 stang just had to modify the plug a little. However I had to use the sending unit from the 94 stang and it doesn't read properly. I don't know when they changed the sending units but I have to modify my original because the plate is thinner and cause a major leak. As far as the lines go I just used the stock lines, but i guess if you won't to do dual exhaust you wil have to relocate the filter.
      Rick

      84 1C
      80 AMC Eagle
      01 Jincheng 50( with 70 big bore)

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      • #4
        So I got te resistor wire piece and have relocated the brake junction on the top of the rear axle to make roomfor the exhaust pipe. How do I get the fuel lines out of the way for the muffler to sit where the fuel pump was? I assume I cannot just leave the Ranger fuel filter there in order to bypass the pump with all of that heat. I would need to extend the lines or move them to another location to make room for the muffler. Any suggestions here?
        www.photobucket.com/albums/f315/horseplayauto

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        • #5
          Re: the Convertible?

          Matt.....Could you use your '86 to compare?~ an example right there?............
          1 Modded, 1 Not

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          • #6
            The 86 started life as a GT, not an SVO. It already has those steel fuel lines etc. Where does the fuel line run on a dual exhaust SVO?
            www.photobucket.com/albums/f315/horseplayauto

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            • #7
              15.4 gallons

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              • #8
                On a 86, I believe the fuel lines run right down the middle, and cut to the passenger side at the Y pipe.
                Eric C
                SVOCA Webmaster

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                • #9
                  That would make sense, I could relocate the fuel lines from the frame rail to the center of the car and through the drivers side of the transmission tunnel THANKS I will let you know if it will work.

                  Thanks for the 15.4 tidbit Kenny- why does the one from the 93 look so much bigger?
                  www.photobucket.com/albums/f315/horseplayauto

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                  • #10
                    Got the fuel lines rerouted. had to run the return and vapor lines in the stock location and then removed the sending line and ran it through the transmission tunel and back into the holder on the firewall from just behind the back of the head.

                    I grounded the black wire to the fuel pump. It was connected in the trunk with a crimp splice to a yellow wire. Every other post mentioned a pink wire (the positive lead right?) and a tan wire that was connected to the groundlead via a crimpsplice. The fuel pump is not priming when I turn over the key. Are there any other wiring or relay issues I should be looking for? I can hear what I assume is the inertia switch clicking when I turn the key to on position but I am getting no power at the pump.

                    What do I do with the external pump wiring connector that is located under the passenger side floorboard?
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                    • #11
                      this is what i am going through now. you jinxed me. mine used to be ok.

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                      • #12
                        I saw your stuff, dont get rid of the car man. you can always wait stuff out. "It builds character"---you will also be able to help me out when you get it done!!! I have no power into my fuel pump relay. Anyone have any idea where KENNY AND I need to go from here?
                        www.photobucket.com/albums/f315/horseplayauto

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                        • #13
                          YEP -- #1 -- chech the fuel shut-off , on the back of the inside of the tail-light pannel. I have seen these go bad before, and they won't reset.

                          #2 (maybe even #1) -- check the codes on the computer.
                          Eric C
                          SVOCA Webmaster

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                          • #14
                            FP Test

                            Using the STI connector (used to run the codes) you can ground out a conection (its specific, not just any connection) and this in essence "hot wires" the fuel pump. Doing this bypasses the FP relay. Pretty sure you have to have the KOEO. This should be outlined in the basic Haynes type mustang manual. If you are unclear about how (i.e. which pin) to do this let me know and I'll dig the write up & post it here.

                            If the pump primes after the jump connection is made you either have a bad FP relay or bad inertia switch most likey (there are also other less probable culprits).

                            hth,
                            -Mike Malone (svoca #416)
                            84 9W / 85.5 9L / 86 2A

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                            • #15
                              Cannot get the self test wiring to work at all, the code reader just stays red, I assume it canot communicate. The code reader works fine, I tested it on my Cobra. The wiring harness is in rough shape. I did however start tracing the yellow wire from the fuel pump relay and after tracing along the back of the dash and out the passenger side I found a short from a corroded portion of the main harness loom on the rear firewall. This wire was broken. I am going to pull the entire harness and start a rewirin' unless any of you know where I can find a replacement.
                              www.photobucket.com/albums/f315/horseplayauto

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