Turn Over Problem

[HPM20]

I just finished a rebuild valve job and put the engine back in. The timing is set right with #1 on the compression stoke at TDC. Double checked it. Everything seems to be plugged in right. I get good spark. I am getting good compression with no intake leaks. All new gaskets naturally anyways. I am getting fuel to the injectors but not sure if they are going thru so I tried some Starter Fuel to see if it would turn over with that but no matter if I use it or not here is what it does.
When I turn the key over and hold it to the start position the car turn over and sounds great but the second I let go of the key it dies. Almost as if something electrical is being cut off. Not sure.

On the solenoid I have the positive battery & yellow wire on one side and starter wire,with a double blue/brown wire fuseable link on the other. Then the small double red ignition wire on top.
Anyone see a problem?
Heeeelllllllppppp.

[Stinger]

Ignition Switch is bad...

[Pat_in_L.A.]

Originally posted by Stinger
Ignition Switch is bad...

I agree. <$10 at any parts store.

[turbizzy]

Ignition switch

I agree as well as it being bad, can anyone explain how they replaced theirs easily or is there no other way of doing it. The instructions say you have to drill out the original rivets and then reinstall new ones??? I guess we don't want anyone running off with our SVOs.

[kennycoulter]

i have a pair of snap on brand parrot jaw pliars.......they grab like a pipe wrench. looks like a half moon when closed...........thats the best i can describe them. they cost 26 bucks for one slip joint pliar, but they came in handy and never fail on round and rounded nuts and bolts. the ignition switch i bought didnt have the replacement break off head bolts so i reused the original, installing them with the same pliars.

[moto773]

New switch that I purchased at auto zone/advance, can't remember which, came with new what I think they call drive rivits. Same problem a year ago, quick and relatively simple fix. A bit of plastic trim r&r, and stand on your head about the drivers seat is all.

[HPM20]

Plugs

Well I will give it a go for the money. Strange though since it worked fine beefore I pulled the motor and I never did any ****pit work on and around the inside dash.
I'll try it.
Can anyone tell me what this plug goes to in the picture?
It is down by the bottom of the battery and near this rubber whosiacallit thing. It cannot go far because the wire is hsort but there is no plug near it to plug into.
Thx

[HPM20]

Another plug.

This is another plug like the the one near the rubber block.
This one is next to the Scanner plug.
Where does this one go.
I thought I had all the pictures before I took this engine out but I missed a few.
Thx Guys,
Bob

[Erics SVO]

First one I beleive is the horn or window washer lead. The second is a ground for the test circuit if I remember correctly. Either way its for the test circuit and remains empty. I'm gonna be tinkering today on mine, I'll look a little closer at get back to ya! For the screws on the switch- If you dont have a good set of pliers for it, you can notch it and use a straight blade screwdriver.

Later, Eric

[moto773]

Ign. switchs just die. Your symtem is classic. Even had a 88 ford truck did same thing. Start and die when release key from start. Put a switch in that too and problem cured. Post above is right. Larger connector and single with brown wire shown are test ports, and do not connect to anything unless you have the test equipment for trouble shooting electronics.

[richsvo]

The second plug is definitely the gropund for the test circuit, and believe you even nailed the second one...if my memory serves...horn, I believe.
Rich

[HPM20]

Got it

I replaced the switch but that wasn't it. I had 2 wires crissed crossed on the starter relay. Doink on my part.
It sounds great since I did the valve job.
Thanks again,
Now comes the cosmetics.
Bob