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**gbeaird** · 06-20-2002, 09:34 AM

Turbojon,

I really don't think you can get much better in the shock department than the Konis. If you up the spring rate, you will want them rebuilt to 'yellow' specs, but the car works well with the factory stuff.

Gene Beaird
86 2R SVO, G Stock
Pearland, Texas

**1HOTSVO** · 06-20-2002, 11:38 AM

Rods, Pistons and more...

If you are going to be running a nice set up and need the strenght and life of good parts I suggest the following:
2.5L Crank: Ford, Crower rods, JE turbo Pistons, Total seal rings, APR Strap kit, Windage tray, Turbo Oil Pump, High Flow water pump, Lightened Steal Flywheel
Thermal coat your piston, rods, etc at www.sun-engineering.com, ask for Jerry (You will gain some awesome horse power that is nomally lost through heat - A full coated 2.3L motor will get you around 40 more HP! It will also out last any normal parts and you will be protected from detonation)
You can get all these parts through Jim at Motion Dynamics. I am building a engine right now with his 2.5L kit that has the part listed above.
I would also recommend:
Injectors from RC engineering
A good fuel system and fuel rail: Talk to Paul at SVPU
Frount mount Intercooler: Spearco (not the SVO kit - Build your own real front mount setup, Ask Brian at Motion Dynamics about it)
Round tooth timing belt kit: Motion Dynamics
And there are a few more parts that I can recommend if you need more help. Also, Beef up you rear end to a 88' T-coupe 8.8 and run a 4.10 ratio. Run the Super alloy gear set from D&D to strenghten your tranny.

Good luck and have fun, you should run in the 12's if you can get trackion with your full interior car. If you are not running a cage, at least run weld-on sub-frame connectors.

Brian

**turbojon** · 06-20-2002, 11:57 AM

Thanks for the advice Gene and Brian.

To Gene,

I too like the Koni's but I think they stay a little to stiff and don't transfer wieght to the rear as well as others I've seen in the V8 arenas. I know they wont work in these cars but I'm looking for something with alot of adjustment. Possibly coil over kit of somekind with special struts for the 4 cylinder wieght up front.

To Brian,

Thanks for the info.I dont know that the 2.5 offers that much over the standard stroke but if I didnt have a perfect crank I might consider it. I think I have a handle on the fuel system stuff as far as rail,regulator,new send and return lines etc. I just wanted to know if anybody that may be running a SDS stand alone has run 55's or 62's and been able to tune the idle within reason. The coatings are a good idea and I would consider the Turbo Coupe rearend swap but the t-bird unit is wider and I dont want to screw up the way this thing tracks unless you know something I dont.

Thanks again
Jon

**1HOTSVO** · 06-20-2002, 01:07 PM

T-Coupe rear

The 8.8 rear from the turbo coupe is the same width from what I can see. I stalled one so far and am building another one with the Torsen TR-2 differential. I used my existing SVO axles and everything just bolts right in without any mods. The only thing I am adding this time is the Global West Track-Link system for my street car since their parts go in without tearing up the car. If I were building a gutted track car, I would use something better like a Griggs system, etc.
I too do not know what the HP gain will be from a 2.3T to a 2.5T but I do expect some Torque gain over my existing 2.3T.
What is your fuel system setup? I have not made up my mind on that part yet as I have not purchased it, although I do like the SVPU rail and Pauls recommendations.
I have not run a SDS system, I planned on going with the EEC-Tuner so I have complete control from my lap top.

Brian

**turbojon** · 06-20-2002, 04:41 PM

Rearend,
Well on the 8.8 issues I havent looked at it yet on the svo but when I did a third member change on my 86 5 liter I compared the axels from it to the turbo coupe axles and the TC's axels were about 3/4" longer but I havent torn apart the SVO yet. I know you can swap complete units but the rear wheels hang out that difference. Maybe there is enough room that the SVO axles will fit in the T.C housing. Well I guess if you done it it fits but have you drove the car?

Fuel System,
I'm going with the SDS system as they have a unit that plugs right into the factory harness and it uses a stand alone controller so you can do on-the-fly adjustments.I just got done with a twin turbo V8 car and used this thing and its awesome!! It does everything except datalog and its a batchfire system.Advantages are: No nasty vane meter(or mass-air).Set your own timing curve,fuel curve(pulse width),cold start fuel,boost retard,on-the-fly
rich/lean for tuning or to run different fuels or lean it a little bit for fuel economy. It will run in Closed Loop (uses O/2 to set mixture) and you can go with about any injector you want and tune the pulse widths to get it right(high or low impedance).If you want to run some 35's in the factory location fuel rail then run a second bank under boost it will do that too.I would recomend this thing to anyone who has half a brain and knows the basics of engine tuning. Cost is around $1000.00 and you need an MSD 6a or like coil and the rest is plug and play.If you want to check it out go to
WWW.sdsefi.com or WWW.WMS.com

As far as the rail: I think I'll make mine or look at the one your talking about and see if it would be justified to save me time.

As far as pump/s: I'm gonna run a set of twin in tank 255lph's because I have them from the V8 car(werent enough) I just mounted them to the factory hanger and used the old send for return and mounted a #10 feed tube. I'll probably run #10 send aluminum tubing and use the stock send for return.I dont want to skimp here as you just cant go with out fuel.

As far as injectors

ont know but probably 55's or 62's

Hey let me know the specifics of your rear suspension set up and what you think of it.

Thanks
Jon

**svobud** · 06-20-2002, 06:34 PM

Re: Motor build questions??

I went ahead and just quoted things you initially asked about.

Originally posted by turbojon
ETS big valve head with custom roller cam
(the lift is huge!! I think 615 or 620's with almost no duration)

Too big. The feedback you got from the Vendors you've spoke with is right on the money. You're using an iron head, right?

t3/t4 hybrid with .48 housing

That's a good one. Many people use them. Guess it all depends on what trim wheel you're going to use in conjunction with what cam you end up with.

Ported upper and lower 65mm T.B.

many have tried, tested, and proven .. this is a viable mod.

Need pistons and rods!! does anyone have some suggestions?

It's already been noted....JE and Crower.

FUEL/Exhaust

Injectors I'm not sure but maybe 55's or 62's??

I think Huber was running the 62s or 72s on his 2.5 stroker. He uses the Holley EEC set up and has a very smooth idle.

Twin in tank 255's for pumps(have them allready)

Twin 255s? Ok.

ATR single 3" downpipe to exhaust tip,header( allready have)

I do NOT recommend the ATR header. They crack..bewteen #2 and 3. VERY notorious for this. I would suggest a log style header or hog out a E6. As for the rest of ATR's stuff....their new DP looks nice, but you can find quality DPs for less money - and have someone fabricate the remaining exhaust. The ATR kit has fitment issues.

Suspension??

I'm wanting to run some different shocks and struts and havent found anything but I'm looking(does anyone have some thoughts?)

Why? I assume because this car will be used primarily for Drag Racing? If that's the case - ya might search from 5.0 boards and see what works for those guys. The front SVO Koni struts and how they mount are unique for the SVO. You may find it hard to find something to work with stock SVO front suspension unless you're going to change out control arms. You'll also want to think about a different set of springs as well...something that is Drag Racing specific.

The rest of the little stuff I have (cam pulley,boost control/K&N etc.)

Ya might try calling Special Vehicle Products and speak with Paul. I would imagine he has most of the 'little stuff' in stock. His number is (205) 629-3126. He might be able to help you with some other things as well.

Things you failed to mention. Head. ya might want to think about porting your head. Front Mounted Intercooler (previously mentioned)...BIG necessity for what you're wanting to accomplish...don't skimp on it. Alum Flywheel (and driveshaft)...lowers rotational weight. Lastly - that consistant 10 sec car ... he uses a C4.

Just my .02....for what it's worth.

**turbojon** · 06-20-2002, 10:50 PM

In reply to the too big on the cam and you agree compliment.

I think for a daily driver it was a little slugish down low but I want to go beyond where most guys go in the RPM range if someone can give me some real answers on what it takes to make the short block take trips to upwards of 7500 to 8000 rpm to make this cam work. Also I planned on changing the exhaust housing if the turbo started to get soft up high. I guess if the old big lift solid roller just doesnt end up working out I'll rip it out and have someone else get me the right cam but I think I'm gonna try it first.

On the head.
It is an iron head but it has been ported pretty big exact specs unknown.It also is at stock height.

The ATR header.
Everybody says this about the ATR and I bought it knowing that but I've done business with ATR over the years and they said that you MUST strap the motor and reinstall the brace and it will hold.So far so good! but the motor only saw about 5,000 miles before I ripped it off. I'm thinking about adding another support brace. I don't know this for sure but I think the ATR will out perform the stock(hogged out) or the log style your refering to. Mostly in the low end torque area but I could be wrong.

The Intercooler.
You might think I'm crazy but I'm gonna try to fit a Power Stroke intercooler in this thing unless someone gives me a reason why I shouldn't.

In reference to the little stuff.
I allready have it all

The next thing for me to do is decide on the shortblock components and get the block to the machine shop.IE; pistons and rods and whatever is out there to make this thing go big RPM if its made. My machine shop can balance and blueprint and they're competent but don't have a clue on 2.3 motors.

Thanks for the reply Bud and any further help would be appreciated
Jon

**1HOTSVO** · 06-21-2002, 12:59 PM

Advice on an Intercooler...

It sounds like you are getting most of your answers on your questions. The last one about the power stroke intercooler:
My advise is to use the Spearco 2-221 Front mount I/C. No mods to the I/C, unlike my buddy that had to totally mod the caps on the Power Stroke I/C. Granted it would flow well if the caps were modified and welded back on correctly, but I think you will still have better luck and flow with the Spearco 2-221 and less of a headache installing it. Either way you'll still have to make your own tubes until someone makes a kit for a front mount I/C.
Good Luck and don't forget to let the forum know what route you go!
Brian

**turbojon** · 06-21-2002, 07:02 PM

Intercooler

Thanks for the heads up on the intercooler, where did you get the spearco from?Spearco or distributor. How much? I liked the idea of the power stroke because of the cost. The other idea I had was looking for a front mount Regal unit and modify the tubes for the SVO. The fabricating thing I can handle so that wont be a big deal if I got to cut and weld some aluminum. I just wanted to know what some people have been running and had success with. I like trying to use whats allready on production cars/trucks just for cost reasons.

Thanks again Brian
Jon

**1HOTSVO** · 06-21-2002, 07:51 PM

The Spearco I/C was around $500 +/- a little through Brian at Motion Dynamics. I know they were working on a full kit with the I/C I mentioned from Spearco but they have not had time to get any further on it.
If you do go with the Power stroke or any I/C that gets modified, here is one other warning; use a plasma cutter to cut the aluminum. Any little filing that come off easily get into the fin then do not come out too easily even if you dip it to clean it. The filing then can come out later and end up going through the motor. I was working on a dual volvo I/C and making my own caps and decided the pain was not worth it. Plus the Spearco I/C is so much nicer looking.
This is only my opinion though.
-Brian

**turbojon** · 06-21-2002, 10:01 PM

Brian
I understand on the shaving issues. If I go that route I'll probably get the thing tanked and pressure cleaned just to make extra sure for the obvious.$500.00 give or take isnt too bad but I'm going to look at the power stroke I/C first and then decide if its worth the trouble and like I said earlier I've seen the front mount Turbo Regal intercoolers pretty cheap hear and there but thanks again for the info.

Jon

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