Announcement

**SVOeric** · 07-01-2002, 11:57 AM

how are you bypassing the turbo???

If you have the throttle body just open to the atmosphere, the car will not run, and will do almost exactly what you say.

It could also be that your ignition timing is slow... when starting a engine that has had the distributor removed, or you just dont know where to start... you need to rotate the crankshaft to TDC, and make sure the cam is also lined up on it's pointer (you can see this through the little hole in the timing cover distributor.) If they both are not lined up, turn the crank one more time around.

Then take the dist cap off, and make sure the rotor is pointing at #1.

Then crank the car, while turning the distributor until it starts. ( a 2 person job)

Then Use a timing light to set the timing @10 deg, with the SPOUT REMOVED.

compressionof 175 is probably a bad thing.. I have never seen a SVO with that much compression. You got something strange going on there...

**bigdummie** · 07-01-2002, 12:23 PM

I am bypassing the turbo by hooking up the VAM straight to the throttle body. Engine runs the same with VAM to turbo to throttle body as VAM to throttle body set up.

As for timing, all you have listed has been done.

I am concerned about the compression as well.

**SVOeric** · 07-01-2002, 12:32 PM

Have you checked the VAM, it may be stuck either open, or shut.

I thought I would mention that it wont run with the TB open to the atmosphere. Some people still think it works just like a carb...

The compression issue should not stop the car from running, but 175 is pretty high..

Do you have any other history on stuff that may have been done to the car?

**bigdummie** · 07-01-2002, 12:46 PM

The VAM swings freely. You can see it moving around when the car runs.

I have two intake set ups that came with the car. I think that one is from Turbo Coupe. One is painted black and says 2.3L EFI and the other no paint and no text. The black intake is a collector type and the other is separate tubes to the block. I dunno what is stock for an 85 SVO.

**bigdummie** · 07-01-2002, 12:50 PM

Not sure what exactly what has been done. I think some turbo upgrades. The intake that is on right now is the unpainted separate tube.

**SVOeric** · 07-01-2002, 01:01 PM

well, the original intake on a 85 would be the 4 seperate runners...

the other one sounds like a TC, that has been painted. The stock 86 SVO didn't have writing on the upper intake.

Does your valve cover have a dip in the center, or is it straight all the way across ???

If that is a stock 85 head, the top left (front) bolt hole in the lower intake would not have threads in the head for the newer style intake... At least you can tell if this is a 85 head or not this way.

**bigdummie** · 07-01-2002, 01:18 PM

the valve cover is straight all the way across, but has a breather hole in the back of the cover.

I'll check the head out later today

**gbeaird** · 07-01-2002, 01:47 PM

Definitely check the timing. Set the crankshaft timing mark to TDC and make sure the cam timing mark lines up correctly with the pointer. IMHO, getting that dang pointer lined up properly is still about the hardest thing to do on a SVO, other than getting that cam bolt to stop leaking oil (g).

make sure the distributor rotor is pointing at the number one plug on the distributor cap.

Once you have verified that the cam is timed correctly with the crank, check the timing. You must remove the SPOUT (the little jumper wire in the ignition harness). I believe it is a yellow plastic piece with a white wire on it that is in a loop. Others who can actually go look at their car right now can straighten this explaination out for you. If you set the timing with the SPOUT connected, the timing will be WAY retarded, and the engine, if it starts, will not run past idle.
If all of this checks out, make sure you have the VAM mounted securely in it's factory mounting position. If you have it laying on its side, it may not function properly.

Gene Beaird
86 2R SVO
G Stock
Pearland, Texas

**bigdummie** · 07-08-2002, 10:21 PM

Update on project

Well, I got the car to run. Runs barely. When I try to set the timing I can only get to 20 BTC before the car wants to die. Also engine does almost nothing when the throttle is opened. I got the timing marks all lined up the best I could considering the plastic belt cover is a piece of crap. I been at this 2 weeks now. Does anyone have any other suggestions.

**SVOeric** · 07-08-2002, 10:55 PM

I have a couple..

you are setting the timing with the spout disconnected.. right ? cause 20 deg with the spout in would be about 10 deg slow.

if the car is strugling that much, it still sounds like you are either way slow in ignition timing, or cam timing. The cam timing should not be that hard to set, the 2 you should be most worried about are the crank, and cam. and you can check those without even taking the cover off.

just turn the crank until it on TDC, then look in the hole in the cover, to see if the cam is lined up with the notch. If the gear with the notch is not even close, turn the crank around again, until you hit TDC again. Then check it.

your ignition timing is fairly close, so dont worry about the aux drive gear timing. as you already have a light on it.. just make sure your spout is out when setting it.

**bigdummie** · 07-08-2002, 11:15 PM

everytime I think I have the cam and crank gear set right, I turn the belt through and it off just a bit. Seems like this is my biggest problem. Any thoughts on stratagy at this point?

spout is out.

**svono50** · 07-09-2002, 02:30 PM

It sounds like your belt tensioning technique needs some tweaking. Our 2.3L engines will run with the belt off a full 10 teeth (ask me how I know), so if you are close you should be able to get it to run decently.

Here is a description of my technique (a little lengthy). 1) Bring the crank to TDC, put the trans in 1st gear and set the parking brake (this will help hold the crank somewhat steady), 2) Pull off the timing cover, 3) Loosen up the belt tensioner pivot bolt and locking bolt, 4) Pry the tensioner back as far as it will go and tighten the locking bolt back down to hold the tensioner off the belt, 5) Put a socket wrench on the cam pulley bolt and gently tap it clockwise just enough to loosen the tension against the right side of the belt, 6) Carefully pull the belt off the cam pulley and keep just enough tension on it to keep it against the aux shaft pulley, but not so much as to slip it over the crank pulley, 7) Rotate the cam pulley to the proper alignment marker, 8) Carefully put the belt back on the cam pulley, 9) Gently tap the cam pulley's bolt to again put a bit of tension on the right side of the belt (a soft touch is needed here), 10) With your hand on top of the belt on top of the cam pulley, loosen the tensioner locking bolt to let the tensioner take up the slack on the left side of the belt, 11) Tighten the tensioner locking bolt back down, 12) Take the tranny out of gear and parking brake off, 13) Hand turn the crank 1/4 turn by the crank pulley bolt (7/8" socket on a 1/2" drive ratchet works well), 14) Loosen the tensioner locking bolt to take up and additional slack and retighten, 15) Hand crank over the engine to bring the cam timing marks back into line and verify they are still there, 16) If all is in line, put the belt cover back on and verify/set the ignition timing and if not, repeat.

This sounds really involved, but it can be done in about 5 minutes with practice (again, ask me how I know). Good luck getting her running right.

**russde** · 07-11-2002, 05:11 PM

Another possibility

I bought an '86 Merkur XR4Ti (essentially an SVO motor without the intercooler) a few years back for $300, barely ran.

After much knuckle busting, cursing, praying, etc. I pulled the distributor and checked the play in the shaft. I measured on my workbench almost 1/2" of play in EACH direction. $80 rebuilt dist. and the car ran like a dream.

Something to check anyway.
Russ
'86 9L
San Antonio

**bigdummie** · 07-12-2002, 08:47 AM

Can I check the play in the shaft while the distributor is still the car or do I need to take it out?

I check it while it was still in the car and did not get any play in the shaft.

What next?

Announcement

compression tests

compression tests

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment