Cracked Dash face

[Fordman]

I am going to undertake replacing the heater core and while I was getting ready, I notice that the face of the dash is crack above the glove box. I was planning on dying the dash, but I didn't now about the crack. Anybody had this problem in the past? Can it be filled before dying?

Thanks for any replies.

[Ken Potter]

I'm not sure... Do you mean the dash pad or the actual dash "body" / hard plastic?

[Eyelawdoc]

Cracked Dash Pad

If you are talking about the dash pad, it can be reskinned by Just Dashes in Van Nuyes, CA. Price $400+ plus shipping.

You can also buy a dash cap which fits on over the pad and hides the cracks. Price $55-75. These look good when installed and are what many of us have chosen to do.

You could try to find an uncracked original dash pad on eBay for $100-300.

Don't be tempted by the aftermarket reproduction dash pads that you see advertised for $185-225. Thes do not fit or look right. They are junk. The dash caps look better for much less!

[Fordman]

Actually I'm talking about the piece that faces the driver. It goes around the glove box, radio steering wheel and under the gauges and bezel. I don't know what you would call it other than the "dash face". It's a plastic finish piece and I plan on painting it with interior dye once I get it out, but I don't want to paint it if I can fill the crack with something.

The dash pad is also cracked. I was planning on buying a aftermarket one, but I think I will just buy the cap. I've seen several people say they are better, including the guy I bought the car from. Where can I buy a good one?

[Eyelawdoc]

I would suggest gluing it from the backside with something like JB Weld. To do that you will need to take it off the car and may need to strip the plastic shell down to get at the back of the crack.

[Fordman]

Take pictures. I can't believe I forgot to do that. I always do that when I take something apart that is so complicated. I haven't done taken any brackets out yet, so I will get the camera tonite and shoot a pic of the crack. Its very small, but it look like it has opened up a little. Maybe after its out of the car, it will seam together.

Yea, it looks like the car was in a front-end collision. The radiator core support is bent underneath and headlight panel is broken as well. The wheels are also slightly warped. It looks like someone ran over the top of something.

If I have to get a replacement, I'll probably hit Mathis Mustang Junkyard. They aren't far from my house. They are a little high, but I can always check. I need a GT passenger side dash bezel anyway.

[indiana dave]

Mine cracked while drag racing... I didn't have subframe connectors yet, and when I launched, I heard a loud pop. I backed off, and the engine was still running fine, so I finished the run. I didn't find out till the next day while cleaning it, that the dash had cracked from the upper right corner of the radio opening to the glovebox. The car was flexing. OUCH!
So, it doesn't necessarily mean that it was in an accident.
I got a replacement dash for mine, but have yet to tackle swapping them. It's a big job, and I keep finding funner things to do with my time. LOL

[Fordman]

Yea, that's why I'm pulling the dash out. I need to change the Heater Core. I picked up one from Advanced, but now I'm reading that I should put a Ford Heater Core in because the cheap ones are thin-walled. $60 verses $17. Some of these aftermarket places have them for about $30. Any suggestions?

[Eyelawdoc]

Either go with the Ford one or get one from NAPA. They sell quality parts!

Don't go with a cheapie from AZ or Kragen! Ask me how I know!

[Fordman]

NAPA huh. I'll check them they are about 1/4 mile down the road from Advanced. What about the Evaporator? Should I change it as well or is there a way to test them? The A/C hasn't worked since I've had it.

[Fordman]

Ok, Here's the dash. After I got it out of the car the crack will not close up. It looks like it will have to be filled with something. Any Opinions?

Thanks

[Eyelawdoc]

Dash Repair

The reason why the crack won't close up is that it is no longer under pressure from being bolted into the car. All the stuff on the backside(wiring, ductwork, etc.) is exerting pressure on the plastic dash shell to push the crack open.

You will need to strip the dash down to a bare shell to relieve pressure on the crack. You also will need to find a method of clamping it back together to close the crack. I would use a web clamp looped around the dash horizontally(lenghtwise) to push it together once the shell has been stripped. Careful, don't exert too much pressure as the shell alone may be somewhat brittle.

I would put a bit of JB weld in the crack itself before the final clamping. Also roughen up the BASKSIDE of the area behind the crack and gusset it with a layer of JB weld on the backside of the crack for reinforcing and strength.

Once you have the JB weld in the crack and the dash clamped up, wipe off any JB weld that oozes out of the front side of the crack before it sets up. You should have plenty of time to work as the JB weld sets up slowly. You may even want to perform the crack repair glueing with the JB weld and the backside gusseting in two separate steps. If you do this, be sure to roughen the backside surface BEFORE you perform the initial crack repair.

Once the JB weld sets up in the crack, keep the dash clamped together and spread some on the roughened backside area. Let it set up fully before loosening your web clamp. I would suggest 24 hrs.

[90lx86svo]

Originally posted by Fordman
Ok, Here's the dash. After I got it out of the car the crack will not close up. It looks like it will have to be filled with something. Any Opinions?

Thanks

My opinion is get another dash. You should be able to find one from any 83-86, maybe even 79-82. It would suck to patch the crack only to have it reappear a week later.