Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1
    OVER-BOOST!! svobud's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Acworth, GA
    Posts
    6,797
    SVO's: 1985.5 1B

    Bolt On Horsepower or Performance Upgrades

    ***PLEASE NOTE: This is a thread from 2003. Things change, vendors come/go, etc. Please use this thread as a BASE LINE for your performance upgrades and not the be all to end all. Thanks ***
    I figured it was time to put up some sort of a list. If you know of any parts or vendors I missed (prefer 2.3 liter specific vendors - NOT summit or JC Whitney) - please PM me so I can add them to the list. This will keep things tidy and in ONE post to read - not 3 or 4 pages. These are JUST engine upgrades. No brakes, no wheels, no suspension, no tranny, no differential.

    I would prefer no OFF Topic replies at all to this FAQ style post. Thx.

    1. Get your car in GOOD TUNE. I always suggest using Motorcraft parts, ie: plugs, wires, PCV, TPS, TFI/PIP - hoses, belts, etc. If you car is not in tune - it doesn't matter what amountof money and parts you throw at it .. it's not going to be a fun car.
    Forced 4
    SVPU


    2. K&N air filter (cone type). Dyno proven by one of our own (svoEric) to give a gain of 9 rwhp on back to back runs at the dyno. Remove the stock air box and put a K&N Cone filter attached directly to the VAM. 86 owners can also use a cold air kit to relocate their filers to the fenderwell.
    SVPU
    Forced 4

    3. Replace your stock BCS (boost control silenoid) with a Manual Boost Valve. Stock levels are 84-85: 14lbs, 85.586: 15lbs. Start off with it at 16-17 psi and work up with it from there. Be careful not to lean your motor out. The higher you boost - the more fuel you'll need - see: #5 & 6. 84-85 owners - you will need to disconnect your Boost Control Module as well (the gray box just below your BCS) when making this upgrade.
    Joe P MBC
    Turbo Specialties
    Ric Gillis Valve
    Boost Controller
    TurboXS

    3A. Compressor Bypass Valve. Please do a search for "Bypass Valve" as we've discussed it quite frequently. Currently - there's no vendor supplying a "bolt on" kit for using a Bypass Valve on your SVO. You will need a recirculating valve unless you use a Bailey's Blow Off Valve - it's really the only BOV that works correctly with our car's system.
    Forced 4

    4. EXHAUST. The cars love exhaust work. 3" Downpipe to start. Eliminate the cat (or highflow cat if you must pass emissions). As far as I know .. currently, SVPU, Motion Dynamics, and Tiny Avenger are all out of stock on 3" DPs. If anyone knows any difference - please PM so I can change this. ATR is expensive - and sometimes fitment can be an isuue. .. buy hey, they about the only game in town as of now.
    Merkur Depot
    Sacramento Mustang
    Racer Walsh

    5. Fuel Pump. The 84-85s have a dual pumps. One in the tank - one on the rail. The 85.5/86s have one intank pump. Neither set up will be able to keep up from here on out. Might as well get the biggest intank you get - 255lph high pressure. It's only a few dollars more than the lower pressure ones, but why buy it twice, right? Walbro makes a good 255lphHP.
    SVPU

    6. Adjustable fuel pressure regulator. This will allow you to turn up the fuel pressure with the higher boost. It's a must. Also - get a fuel pressure gauge. Makes life so much easier knowing your pressure at a glance. Kirban makes the best bang for the buck for our cars.
    SVPU

    7. Injectors/Computers. the 35lb injectors and PE should support 300hp in stock form. The 84-85 owners will benefit greatly by upgrading your stock (green top 30lb) injectors to the brown top 35s. You will also need to upgrade your computer to one that's calibrated to the larger injectors. The 87-88 TCs have an excellent computer. It's very easy to change over - to do so - 4 pins need to be swapped out in your factory computer harness plug. See this website below for instructions. Thanks to Lew (GT350R) for making these charts available to the public. If you HP levels start demanding larger fuel supply (close to or over 300hp levels) - then look into the EEC tuner (piggy back style) or some form of stand alone management set up - ie: SDS, MOTec, Electromotive, Holley, etc - along with some larger recommended injectors (42lbers and up).
    GT350R's website
    SDS supplier
    Electromotive Inc
    EEC Tuner
    R C Engineering
    Tweecer

    8. Header or Ported E6. It's all about the $$ on this one - but they're all worth the effort.
    Bob40Lee
    rod87tbird
    Racer Walsh

    9. Alum Driveshaft and Alum Flywheel. Reduces rotational weight. The theory is: for every 1 pound of rotational weight relieved from the drivetrain ... it gains back 2.5HP to the wheels. Dunno if it's factual - but they definitely increase the motors rev speed from mid to high end RPMs. The D/S is 6 lbs lighter over stock - the Flywheel is 10 lbs light than stock.
    SVPU
    Forced 4

    10. Cams. There's alot of them on the market. Try not to get caught up in the hoop-laa. Two types: Slider (flat tappet) and Roller. They both offer pretty much the same HP increases. No one has shown me any difference. The ROLLER style does add reduced friction and will wear better than a slider. It's also twice the price. Motorsport offers the A237 (roller) and A234 (slider). For cheap upgrades... a Ranger from the last 80s-early 90s use a Roller cam that will bolt on. For 84-85 owners .. the 85.5-86s had a bigger slider cam. Otherwise - opinons on cams will vary (greatly) from person to person. You also need to consider using an Adjustable Cam Sprocket so you can 'fine tune' your cam.
    Boport Racing Heads
    SVPU
    Esslinger Racing
    Racer Walsh
    Crower Cams PN#24273
    Forced 4

    11. Intercoolers. The 87-88 TurboCoupe IC will bolt right on in the stock location. It's 40 CFFM larger than a stock SVO IC. The problem - it's still in the stock location. Front Mounted ICs will offer the greatest efficency. They don't increase HP - they increase your ability to effectively lower intake air temps - thus allowing higher boost without fear of detonation. Spearco makes a (some what) bolt on kit (big bucks)... or you can use many different JunkYard configurations .. such as ones from an Isuzu NPR, Conquest/Starion, or 944 Porsche.
    Pic of small NPR
    Spearco Intercoolers

    12. Ported Iron head/larger valves or Esslinger's Alum Street head. Prepare to spend money. It takes talent to properly port an automotive head so choose wisely.
    Boport Racing Heads
    Esslinger Racing
    Racer Walsh

    13. Ported factory intakes. 85.5/86 style (can also be found on Merkurs and TCs - but you'll need the lower profile valve cover as well). You can port them yourself if you feel comfortable doing it or pay someone for the service. 84-85 owners that want to use the later style intakes will be required to drill/tap a new bolt for in the factory head in order to mount a box style intake. You will also need the 86 style fuel rail - the stock 84-85 rail won't fit the box style intakes.
    Bob40Lee
    GT350R's website

    13A. Larger Throttle Body. You can use larger TBs from a 94-95 5.0 (60mm) or a larger aftermarket (65mm) from the same application. T/A makes a complete adapter kit or you piece one together yourself. The TB will have to be slightly modified to fit (by elongating the bolts holes). David Godfrey also offers many "custom" built items/services.
    David Godfrey's Homepage
    Forced 4

    14. Turbo. The Hybrid is the most wildly used upgraded turbo. It's features the combination of a T04 and a T03. We recommend one of our most dedicated club sponsers, Evergreen Turbo, for all turbo questions... and recommend you get them to build you one to fit your application too.
    Evergreen Turbos

    15. Stroker kit. Yes, you can stroke a stock block 2.3 out to a 2.5. It's really not necessary as there's plenty of people making HIGH horsepower without them. It you haven't upgraded your engine to the above 14 listed items thus far ... I don't recommend building a stroker. Or you can build one yourself by using a 2.5 crank - Ford part # F87Z-6303-AARM - also listed is Race Eng for HiPo engine parts
    Esslinger Racing
    Race Eng
    Racer Walsh (offers fully assembled short blocks)


    16. N2O - yes, you can run Nitrious on your turbocharged motor. I would suggest seeking advice from other who currently use it or make a call to a N2O kit supplier's tech line. Most recommend applications on a street driven car are going to be 50-90hp shots from a wet system.
    NX Express

  2. #2
    14 PSI Boost
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Friendswood, TX
    Posts
    67
    SVO's: 86 2R
    Any updates to this in 2014?

  3. #3
    OVER-BOOST!! svono50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Streamwood, IL
    Posts
    3,672
    SVO's: 86 1C
    The basics of all the points above still hold true for our cars and there really haven't been any real new advances with our old platform. Some of the vendors no longer exist and even some others have come/gone since then. If you have a specific question on any one of the bullet points above, I would suggest posting it in a new thread...if it hasn't been discussed in another. If it has, I would suggest resurrecting the old thread so we can keep the particular information consolidated.
    Ted
    86 SVO Mustang
    17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

  4. #4
    12 PSI Boost
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Brooklyn NY
    Posts
    37
    Thanks for the interesting list but I have some questions:
    1. Air intake is a funny thing and I've had experience when more air sacrifices too much torque down low for the gains made up top. One of the key bottlenecks described is the air intake. Is it possible that the decision to bypass the air intercooler allows the power increase only because the car isn't moving through the air at speed? If a dyno were done with a high volume fan pointed directly at the intercooler, I suspect the gain from air intake would be minimized if not eliminated.
    2. I'm not so sure about the recommendation to disconnect the BCM. A full atmosphere of boost will double the normally aspirated HP of the engine so if you can get 150whp without any boost, 15psi should get you your 300whp. Adding more boost adds complications I would rather avoid and controlling it manually means you're going to have to tweak it every time the weather changes. Is there any way to low level program the BCM or find a replacement that is pin compatible and programmable? In my opinion, tuning a chip/control sensor is a better solution than manual control from a convenience point of view.
    3. The stock T3 is very good in the SVO but the new twin scroll turbos like those found in the Ecoboost are likely to be >20% more efficient. I think more finesse is better than more boost and 300whp without sacrificing low end torque and gas mileage is the best route to satisfaction.
    4. Exhaust work always works but can you live with the sound change? I don't know about you guys but I LOVE the sound of the stock SVO exhaust and would be very unwilling to change it. Both its pitch and dB level is exactly right everywhere through the rev range. It's what originally attracted me to this car and still does. Can't we look for a way to get up to 300whp without losing that wonderful SVO sound?
    5. I like the idea of a fuel pressure gauge but I also like the SVO dashboard. Where would you put it? Also, why couldn't this function be tied into an upgraded computer/sensor setup?

    I know making a post on an established sticky when you're a newbie might seem a bit presumptuous but my questions are sincere and I'm eager to discuss the replies. Does anyone else reading see things like I do on making SVO power?

  5. #5
    Pimpin Pumpkin Carver Laredo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Stillwater, MN
    Posts
    1,170
    SVO's: 86 2R
    Quote Originally Posted by yldouright View Post
    One of the key bottlenecks described is the air intake. Is it possible that the decision to bypass the air intercooler allows the power increase only because the car isn't moving through the air at speed? If a dyno were done with a high volume fan pointed directly at the intercooler, I suspect the gain from air intake would be minimized if not eliminated.
    The recommendation is not to “bypass the air intercooler,” but rather to substitute the restrictions and turns in the stock air cleaner assembly with a more direct path for airflow

    Quote Originally Posted by yldouright View Post
    I'm not so sure about the recommendation to disconnect the BCM. A full atmosphere of boost will double the normally aspirated HP of the engine so if you can get 150whp without any boost, 15psi should get you your 300whp. Adding more boost adds complications I would rather avoid and controlling it manually means you're going to have to tweak it every time the weather changes. Is there any way to low level program the BCM or find a replacement that is pin compatible and programmable? In my opinion, tuning a chip/control sensor is a better solution than manual control from a convenience point of view.
    Completely agree…almost. A naturally aspirated 2.3L Lima engine (w/ 9 to 1 compression) does not make 150hp in stock form, more like 110. Now drop to 8 to 1 dished turbo pistons and you’re down to about 100hp. Using your “double” 15 psi rule, that would put you at about 200hp.
    As for the manual boost, you are correct. It’s a crude, non-feedback, imprecise, finicky method to control boost. As a general rule, I think it’s not a good idea. On the plus side (when used in moderation), it’s cheap way to get easy additional hp with a tweak of a knob. And while a “better” means of controlling boost is an electronic closed-loop feedback system – the downside of this is cost. “Better” can be sometimes defined by the content of your wallet.

    Quote Originally Posted by yldouright View Post
    The stock T3 is very good in the SVO but the new twin scroll turbos like those found in the Ecoboost are likely to be >20% more efficient. I think more finesse is better than more boost and 300whp without sacrificing low end torque and gas mileage is the best route to satisfaction.
    Again – “better” has to be balanced against how costly. How much time, $$, chopping, cutting and customizing are you willing to give up to adapt a twin scroll system to a 30 year-old vehicle.

    Quote Originally Posted by yldouright View Post
    Exhaust work always works but can you live with the sound change? I don't know about you guys but I LOVE the sound of the stock SVO exhaust and would be very unwilling to change it. Both its pitch and dB level is exactly right everywhere through the rev range. It's what originally attracted me to this car and still does. Can't we look for a way to get up to 300whp without losing that wonderful SVO sound?
    Yes. While the stock exhaust sounds fantastic (completely agree), the narrow and crimped downpipe is a choke on exhaust flow at anything above stock hp. If you’ve ever heard 3" Magnaflow exhaust on an SVO, I think you find it sounds very similar, even better than stock, but with much better flow.

    Quote Originally Posted by yldouright View Post
    I like the idea of a fuel pressure gauge but I also like the SVO dashboard. Where would you put it?
    Agreed again. I would never want to disturb or modify the stock dash. One option is an exterior mount in the wiper cowl.

    Quote Originally Posted by yldouright View Post
    Also, why couldn't this function be tied into an upgraded computer/sensor setup?
    No reason at all, probably best method for data recording, warning alert, etc.
    "If there's no plan, what can go wrong...?"

  6. #6
    OVER-BOOST!! Bruce's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Oconomowoc,WI
    Posts
    1,049
    SVO's: 86 1E
    I have gauge pods on my A pillar for extra gauges. Cheep and effective. If FP is the only one then one on the top of the column works too. If you go PIMP you can use elecrtonic boost control theoretically. I could not get it to work though. Maybe old wiring.
    Bruce

  7. #7
    12 PSI Boost
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Brooklyn NY
    Posts
    37
    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce View Post
    I have gauge pods on my A pillar for extra gauges. Cheep and effective. If FP is the only one then one on the top of the column works too. If you go PIMP you can use elecrtonic boost control theoretically. I could not get it to work though. Maybe old wiring.
    I don't think I could live with mushrooms growing on my "A" pillar but I guess that's the kind of compromise we might have to make to get additional functionality/information. Which programmable module did you try to connect? More than likely your problem was pin compatibility and nothing to do with the age of the wires.

    Quote Originally Posted by Laredo
    The recommendation is not to “bypass the air intercooler,” but rather to substitute the restrictions and turns in the stock air cleaner assembly with a more direct path for airflow
    Understood but I still think forced air channeled from the hood scoop should trump the straighter path.

    Quote Originally Posted by Laredo
    A naturally aspirated 2.3L Lima engine (w/ 9 to 1 compression) does not make 150hp in stock form, more like 110.
    Agreed but Cosworth was able to get 200bhp from the 2.0L Lima block 50 years ago without a snail. 150bhp NA seems attainable especially in the age of sensors and computer control. By the way, I have the controversial opinion that you need to tune a turbo engine without it first.

    Quote Originally Posted by Laredo
    Again – “better” has to be balanced against how costly. How much time, $$, chopping, cutting and customizing are you willing to give up to adapt a twin scroll system to a 30 year-old vehicle.
    Noted but I think the platform needs more power and I would be willing to pay $3,000 to get to 300whp ($30/hp). At some point you're better off just swapping in an Ecoboost. There's an idea

    One option is an exterior mount in the wiper cowl.
    Not for me, I would prefer cutting a hole in the dash. Thanks for the heads up on the Magnaflow, I'll be looking examples on the SVO.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •