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  1. #61
    OVER-BOOST!! Bruce's Avatar
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    SVO's: 86 1E
    I have always been told that a roll bar on the street was far more dangerous then not unless you are wearing a helmet.
    Bruce

  2. #62
    Administrator SVOeric's Avatar
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    SVO's: 86-1C & 86-1E
    a full roll-cage is always going to keep the passenger compartment from collapsing. Dont see any way that is not more safe that it collapsing on a driver.
    Eric C
    SVOCA Webmaster

  3. #63
    OVER-BOOST!! svono50's Avatar
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    It all depends on the kind of accident (i.e.- roll over vs horizontal impact). The roll bar can certainly be a foe of your skull if you have a large horizontal movement of your head during the accident and it isn't contained in a helmet. This is why using roll bar padding is highly recommended for street driven vehicles that have roll bars. If you roll your car and are wearing a harness without some sort of roll bar, there is the potential of getting a compression spinal injury with a roof collapse. There are trade-offs with all scenarios, some more severe than others, which should always be considered when installing/using this kind of equipment in your own vehicle.
    Ted
    86 SVO Mustang
    17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

  4. #64
    OVER-BOOST!! Bruce's Avatar
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    The major cause of deaths in auto accidents (from what I have read) are are head injuries involving the door frame ect. Roll bars are more intrusions into the "head space".
    Bruce

  5. #65
    Administrator SVOeric's Avatar
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    SVO's: 86-1C & 86-1E
    head injuries, similar to Dale Earnhardt, where his head bounced off the bar...
    if the bars are build right, they don't move much
    Eric C
    SVOCA Webmaster

  6. #66
    OVER-BOOST!! Bruce's Avatar
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    If built right the bars don't move much-LOL
    Bruce

  7. #67
    OVER-BOOST!! svono50's Avatar
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    License Plate Lens Kit - LMR/Daniel Carpenter #1

    Just swapped in the LMR license plate lens kit that uses Daniel Carpenter lenses and a screw kit from LMR. Quick, simple job (~10 minutes) and don't know why I waited so long. Only issue I ran into was that the screw kit (LRS-56910-SK) comes with (4) #8 screws. My OEM screws are #10 size screws, so slightly larger. My OEM screws were in good shape with some cleanup, so they were reused. I did send a note to LMR that their website needs to be updated. Reason being is that they state that the kit is "Made in the USA", but the DC lenses are labelled "Made in China", so the site is not 'correct' on the country of origin of the parts. I was a bit surprised by this, but still installed them.

    Here you can see the OEM lenses were showing their 33 year old age with yellowing, cracks and some overspray:

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    Here you can see the new lenses in place and the improvement:

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    Installation steps, including showing the smaller supplied screw (non-rusty version on right):

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    Ted
    86 SVO Mustang
    17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

  8. #68
    OVER-BOOST!! svono50's Avatar
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    License Plate Lens Kit - LMR/Daniel Carpenter #2

    Just to finish this up, here is the bag label from the lenses, which states they are "Made in China" vs LMR's note that they are made in the USA. I have also included the LMR screw kit bag that contains #8 size screws vs my car that used #10 size screws. Not sure if Ford swapped back and forth between the two sizes or not, but the lens housings have a 0.215" diameter hole that is more appropriate for use with a 0.190" diameter (#10) screw rather than the 0.164" diameter (#8) screw.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here is a closeup of the OEM lens next to the DC unit. Also note that the DC unit comes with a foam gasket to create a seal between the housing and hatch.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Ted
    86 SVO Mustang
    17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

  9. #69
    the well known PIA VIN guy Ken Potter's Avatar
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    SVO's: 84,85,85.5,86x2
    Quote Originally Posted by svono50 View Post
    Here you can see the OEM lenses were showing their 33 year old age with yellowing, cracks and some overspray
    But... but... The PATINA!!! It's GONE!!! HAHA

  10. #70
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    Looks good. Thanks for the information! I can only hope that I can get my car to the point where I am worrying over little details like license plate lighting! Good work

  11. #71
    OVER-BOOST!! gbeaird's Avatar
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    SVO's: '86 2R
    Quote Originally Posted by brotharon View Post
    Looks good. Thanks for the information! I can only hope that I can get my car to the point where I am worrying over little details like license plate lighting! Good work
    Heh, me, too, although I find myself doing the 'little details' vs. finishing up the engine bay work like I should do. I'll have to go have another look at those lenses on our 86. I think they were age-yellowed, but not cracked.
    Gene Beaird,
    86 2R SVO, G Stock,
    Pearland, Texas

  12. #72
    OVER-BOOST!! svono50's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Potter View Post
    But... but... The PATINA!!! It's GONE!!! HAHA
    The patina still there, just now in a small ziplock bag since I can bring myself to throw these kind of things in the trash right away...maybe in 10 or so years...

    Oh, there are plenty of other items to worry about, but I added these onto my order for my head/marker lights, well...because I could... After now almost 28 years of ownership of this car, you start to 'almost' run out of things to do.
    Ted
    86 SVO Mustang
    17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

  13. #73
    the well known PIA VIN guy Ken Potter's Avatar
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    SVO's: 84,85,85.5,86x2
    I replaced the ones in the 7B with NOS Ford parts. Along with a whole bunch of other stuff.

    I have a pile of NOS things already stocked up for the Hertz car but not the license plate lights, yet.

    Plenty of other things will come before that, if at all at this point. It's buried in the very back of the garage. Looking more like a future "Barn Find" for somebody after I leave this place.

  14. #74
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    @svono50
    Well, there's always the Tiny Terror Project if you get bored again

  15. #75
    OVER-BOOST!! svono50's Avatar
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    SVO's: 86 1C

    Rear End Rebuild #1 of 5

    So my 8.8 rear end was finally getting on its last leg. The three main issues were, 1) bearing whine that was almost deafening with an all spherical joint rear suspension transmitting it very clearly inside, 2) one-wheel peel coming out of the corners on the road and auto-x courses and 3) the pinion seal leak was enough to leave a small puddle under it in the garage. Considering the axles had ~120K miles, the entire 8.8” assembly dated back to 1995 (~50K miles) and the pinion seal had been slinging a little lube for several years, it was time for this project.

    I started by dropping the rear axle assembly out of my car and getting it out where I could get a good look at it, along with draining the fluid and disassembling it all. I found a way to raise the axle off the ground and make it mobile by placing my jack stands on a furniture dolly, which turned out to be extremely useful.

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    I found one bit of damage to the driver’s side brake line clamp that I installed with my SS brake lines back in 2007. Turns out it was being clipped by the upper housing of the Koni shock. My passenger side clamp didn’t show any damage, but you can see it is mounted up/forward as compared to the driver’s side. I ordered up a new clamp and moved it to the same position as the passenger side…not sure why I mounted them in different positions in the first place (??).

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    Speaking of brake lines, I had never replaced the 7.5” mounting bracket for the main brake line supply fitting and had used zip-ties to hold it to the center housing of the 8.8” housing, since it was way too short. I created a standoff to rigidly mount the bracket to the housing using a ¼” NPT pipe nipple cut at an angle to match the flange on the housing, so another add-on project checked off.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by svono50; 01-12-2020 at 03:02 PM.
    Ted
    86 SVO Mustang
    17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

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