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  1. #16
    OVER-BOOST!! svono50's Avatar
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    Looks like you did get the 2-piece pistons, certainly are better than the phenolic versions you previously had! Did both of your front calipers have 2-piece pistons? If so, then you should be set to go. The rears are SS due to the adjusting mechanism internal to the piston, which is something most folks don't realize. Good luck on your rebuild once you get the hoses.
    Ted
    86 SVO Mustang
    17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

  2. #17
    16 PSI Boost
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    Yes both front calipers have the same pistons. So just to recap for future reference. The front; new calipers with SS pistons, Maximum motorsports SS sleeves, Goodridge braided lines, & threw some Hawk HPS pads for good measure. I still need to complete the rear but have a question. How do they come off? So on the new rear line (pic) it looks like all you need to do is turn it 90 degrees to line up the notch. But when I try to turn the line on the bracket it doesn't budge, the mounting bracket moves more than the line. Don't tell me I have to remove the bracket? Looks like I'm having issues with posting pics so I can't show you what I mean at the moment.

  3. #18
    OVER-BOOST!! svono50's Avatar
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    Hmm, not getting what you are talking about on the rear calipers. The rear calipers are held in place with (2) screw/pins that you access from the inside of the caliper body just above and below the parking brake lever (see pic below). They are a hex/Allen drive, but I can't remember the size off hand. Are you putting rear SS lines on too? If so, my rear lines are the Earl's brand, I don't have the Goodridge rears, so I am not sure the orientation/design of their banjo blocks. You can shoot me your pics at 'svono50 at svoca dot com' in the normal email address format of course. Hopefully they would help clarify things to me anyway.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Ted
    86 SVO Mustang
    17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

  4. #19
    16 PSI Boost
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    I guess I wasn't clear. How do the break lines remove from the axle bracket. Where the steel line on the axle meets the rubber line.

  5. #20
    18 PSI Boost bluemax's Avatar
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    SVO's: 86 2R CP 86 9L CP
    Not sure about your question, but here are two different ways to interpret.

    The rear steel brake lines have a "tee" in the center (or off center for non-dual exhaust cars) of the rear end. A steel line extends to each side. The steel lines connect to a bracket/hose assembly on each side. The hose has a threaded connection at the bracket and a banjo bolt connection at the caliper.

    The bracket/hose assembly is just that, an assembly. The hose fitting is crimped to the bracket. If you are trying to replace just the oem style rubber hose with a stainless steel hose, you will need to figure out a way to attach the two. Hopefully you have found a supplier that makes a bracket/stainless steel hose assembly.

    If you are trying to remove the hard steel line from the bracket/hose assembly, try soaking in PB Blaster or other. Depending on condition (rust), you may end up replacing the hard steel lines (available in reproduction).

    Hope this helps.

  6. #21
    16 PSI Boost
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    Thanks for the advice, svono50 squared me away. What a pain in the a$$ removing the brackets that hold the rear brake lines. Had to cut the bolt head off to remove the bracket then grind the brass block holding he line on the bracket. Then I had to drill out the remaining bolt material, I guess I will remount the bracket with self taping screws. Next I need to figure out how to mount the new brake line to the bracket (check the pics)Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	45089. I will ponder this for a while to come up with something.

  7. #22
    OVER-BOOST!! svono50's Avatar
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    Craig,

    Glad my pics helped get you to where you are now. For remounting the brackets to the axle, I simply drilled/tapped out the housing bracket and used stainless steel socket head cap screws with lock washers. Mine have stayed in place without any issues. As for holding the new brass block to the bracket, I think they intended it to be held in place with an e-clip that simply snaps into the groove on the pin. Here is a screen shot of one off the McMaster website for reference:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    You can get them in various sizes and materials. I know my local Ace hardware store has them in their wall-o-fasteners assortment, hopefully your local hardware store has them as well, since the shipping from McMaster would easily be more than the parts.
    Ted
    86 SVO Mustang
    17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

  8. #23
    16 PSI Boost
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    Good advice Ted. So I did the same, drilled and tapped the bracket. Mounting the brass block is what I was a little worried about. I was intending on using either a E or C retaining clip. However the mounting area on the brass didn't fit in the bracket (of course). So I drilled a section on the bracket to fit the mounting knub. I tried both style retaining rings and preferred the C style, it seemed to hold it more firm. Now to my next problem the right rear leaked fluid. To make a long story short, mounting the new fuel line in the same location for some reason put pressure on the steel line tweaking the threads and miss aligning the flared or something like that because as soon as I removed the new line from the mount bracket it doesn't leak. So what does this mean? Well for now where the steel line secures into the brass block is i will leave unsecure. I did zip tie the steel line to the axle tube so it's slightly secure. I think I'm going to have a new steel line made for the right rear, there's a place down the road that makes still lines. They also make steel braided lines so I might see if they make me one that will go from the axle brass block straight to the caliper. I will post update with pics soon. Thanks

  9. #24
    16 PSI Boost
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    So that's what I'm working with, see how the brass is on an upward angle? When I mount it on the bracket i believe it's pulling on the threads enough to produce a leak. So far, like this it's holding fluid and the pedal is firm. I will keep a close eye on it and still look for a proper fix.

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