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Thread: Two things

  
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    6 PSI Boost 8t6svo's Avatar
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    Two things

    I need to know two things. First I have a fuel leak in the return line at the fuel pressure regulator connection. Is it just a common o-ring or is it something special? Second can anyone tell me where the thermostat switch for the cooling fan is located? Thanks in advance for any help.

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    OVER-BOOST!! gbeaird's Avatar
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    The switch is on the lower intake manifold. There's also a fan control relay that controls the fan. Since you didn't specify your issue, if any, you'll want to look there. Also, if you do a search on 'cooling fan switch', you'll get several hits on what to look for, what to look at, and some troubleshooting steps if the fan isn't running.

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    OVER-BOOST!! GAboySVO's Avatar
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    For the fuel leak, there are 2 o-rings in the press on fuel line fitting. I gave up on my effort to replace just the o-rings and replaced the fitting. You can pick one up at the local auto parts store.
    Mike S

    '86 SVO 9L Leather
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    6 PSI Boost 8t6svo's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info. My fan is working but to me the temp is kind of high before it comes on. I was thinking of replacing the switch with one from painless #30110 that turn on @195F and off @185. Thought about #30111 that is on @185F and off @170F but thought that might be to cool. Any thoughts?

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    OVER-BOOST!! GAboySVO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8t6svo View Post
    Thanks for the info. My fan is working but to me the temp is kind of high before it comes on. I was thinking of replacing the switch with one from painless #30110 that turn on @195F and off @185. Thought about #30111 that is on @185F and off @170F but thought that might be to cool. Any thoughts?
    If you are going by your stock temp gauge when you say the fan comes on late, then you are chasing a non-problem. Get a cheap infrared temp gauge from harbor freight and verify the actual temp of the coolant when the fan comes on by measuring the top radiator hose.
    Mike S

    '86 SVO 9L Leather
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    I have one in my toolbox Ill give it a try. Thanks

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    OVER-BOOST!! gbeaird's Avatar
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    I think most come on when the needle is around the ‘m’ or ‘a’ of ‘normal’, so yeah, it’s a bit high, but ‘normal’. :-)

    The under dash dash controller was fried on our 86 when we got it. We were planning to just autocross it, so bypassed the controller with a switch. You HAVE to remember to turn the switch on in warm weather, though. Even though we rarely drive the car, going to the switch after start is still second nature to me.
    Last edited by gbeaird; 02-27-2018 at 10:43 PM.
    Gene Beaird,
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    OVER-BOOST!! Bruce's Avatar
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    I gave up and added an after market controller. Not turning on the manual switch could be a problem and leaving it on dragged my battery down with my under drive pulley's. Now I can set the point I want the fan to turn on and off at.
    Bruce

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    OVER-BOOST!! gbeaird's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce View Post
    I gave up and added an after market controller. Not turning on the manual switch could be a problem and leaving it on dragged my battery down with my under drive pulley's. Now I can set the point I want the fan to turn on and off at.
    Our fan kind of chirped when it was running, so that was one indicator. Since I had a co-driver, we kept each other up with the ‘fan on!’ thing, and since the hood came up at the end of every run, forgetting about the fan wasn’t an issue unless we let someone else drive the car.

    But again, the muscle memory, even after not racing the car for more than 10 years is almost scary.

    Get in the car.
    Turn the key to start.
    Turn the fan on.
    Drive.
    Turn the key off, pressing the column lock button to lock the ignition and remove the key.
    Press the fan switch to make sure it’s off.

    But yeah, if you're not used to it, a working controller is much, much better.
    Last edited by gbeaird; 03-02-2018 at 02:19 PM.
    Gene Beaird,
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    Pearland, Texas

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    Max BOOST! SchoolBoy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8t6svo View Post
    Thanks for the info. My fan is working but to me the temp is kind of high before it comes on. I was thinking of replacing the switch with one from painless #30110 that turn on @195F and off @185. Thought about #30111 that is on @185F and off @170F but thought that might be to cool. Any thoughts?

    Super important to note that the stock cooling fan temp switch will turn the fan on at 220*. This is just way to hot for comfort. I am currently using the painless #30110 switch that kicks on at 195* and off at 180*. This paired with a "I think" a 180* thermostat keeps my motor running right in the middle of the gauge. But if you leave the stock 195* thermostat in the car the fan will run all the time.

    Another thing to consider is putting the fan (especially the stock one) on a relay to take the strain off the fan controller so it doesn't melt like mine did...
    85 SVO 2A 205rwhp & 266 pounds torque!
    SDS Found, FMIC Built, Dash pad triple gauge pod

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    Administrator SVOeric's Avatar
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    I have a programmable fan controller in 1 SVO, and a PIMP in the other. 195 is too cold, that's right where the thermostat opens.
    My preference for the perfect kick-on temp is 205, with about 8-10 deg kick-off.
    with secondary fan kick-on (running dual fans) at 210. Im not sure I've ever had both fans kick on, except when I tested by unplugging the 205 fan....

    The relay is definitely a good idea, if you want the stock fan controller to remain functional.
    Eric C
    SVOCA Webmaster

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    6 PSI Boost 8t6svo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SchoolBoy View Post
    Super important to note that the stock cooling fan temp switch will turn the fan on at 220*. This is just way to hot for comfort. I am currently using the painless #30110 switch that kicks on at 195* and off at 180*. This paired with a "I think" a 180* thermostat keeps my motor running right in the middle of the gauge. But if you leave the stock 195* thermostat in the car the fan will run all the time.

    Another thing to consider is putting the fan (especially the stock one) on a relay to take the strain off the fan controller so it doesn't melt like mine did...

    Looks like I'll have about the same setup. I just picked up a Painless #30110 and a 180* thermostat. Thanks for the heads up on the relay, I will pick one up.

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    OVER-BOOST!! Bruce's Avatar
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    I may be wrong but I thought the stock ECU was set up for a 195' thermostat. (I know the pimp reaches full operating temp at like 160) If you go colder it will think it's never warmed up potentially causing a richer mix. Better safe than sorry but richer than stock is way over kill!
    Bruce

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    How much richer do you think 15* will make it run? Do you think it will be running way to rich and cause problems?

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    OVER-BOOST!! svono50's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8t6svo View Post
    How much richer do you think 15* will make it run? Do you think it will be running way to rich and cause problems?
    It is hard to say, I cannot find anything specific on how much 15 deg will push the air/fuel target in the EEC's lookup tables during closed loop (i.e.- generally below 3000rpm). Maybe someone on here has played with one of the various aftermarket EEC tuners and can speak to the table layout. Moving from 195 down to 180 may not effect the target ratio, but you may have to run your own tests to determine the effect through tracking your gas mileage...if you have a relatively consistent number you track and see.

    Personally, for what that's worth, I don't see that change in temp having much of an effect. As much as I don't care to see my temp gauge up around the "L" of NORMAL, the cooling fan kicks in and usually brings the gauge down between the "R" and "M". Once on the move on the road it usually holds right on "O". When I am running hard on the road course at an HPDE, it will see it float right around the "M" and the fan never kicks on when moving. I no longer run any glycol in my cooling system, only distilled water and a bottle of Redline Water Wetter for reference.
    Ted
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