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  1. #16
    Administrator SVOeric's Avatar
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    SVO's: 86-1C & 86-1E
    you can't ??
    oh crap, I may have tossed one a couple months ago, because the seal in it was toasted.
    Eric C
    SVOCA Webmaster

  2. #17
    OVER-BOOST!! svono50's Avatar
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    SVO's: 86 1C
    Quote Originally Posted by gbeaird View Post
    Yeah, itís a shame you canít get those steel retainers anymore.
    Gene, are you saying all vendors that supplied this retainer have obsoleted it? I think I bought my retainers from D&D Performance in Michigan and I know they are still around. There were a couple other shops offering them too, but I can't remember them.
    Ted
    86 SVO Mustang
    17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

  3. #18
    OVER-BOOST!! dagenham's Avatar
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    SVO's: '84 9W
    I looked at Napa's website. They list two cable lengths. 60.75" and 42.18". That's an 18" difference. I can't believe there are two different cables made that are that much different in length.

  4. #19
    OVER-BOOST!! gbeaird's Avatar
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    SVO's: '86 2R
    Quote Originally Posted by svono50 View Post
    Gene, are you saying all vendors that supplied this retainer have obsoleted it? I think I bought my retainers from D&D Performance in Michigan and I know they are still around. There were a couple other shops offering them too, but I can't remember them.
    Ted, It's been a long time since I've looked, but IIRC, the last time I looked (from an older query on this forum) I could not find that steel retainer. I believe I also got the steel retainer for our 86 from D&D a few decades ago. =8-0 I had a quick look on D&D's web site, and am finding no steel retainers for the T5. I guess a call to D&D would be the next step to verify.

    But I'm not 100% certain, but believe the last time I looked, I came up empty-handed.
    Gene Beaird,
    86 2R SVO, G Stock,
    Pearland, Texas

  5. #20
    OVER-BOOST!! svono50's Avatar
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    SVO's: 86 1C
    Quote Originally Posted by dagenham View Post
    I looked at Napa's website. They list two cable lengths. 60.75" and 42.18". That's an 18" difference. I can't believe there are two different cables made that are that much different in length.
    My guess is that the V8/V6 cars had a different length cable as compared to the 4cyl cars due to exhaust clearance routing, since we use the same clutch pedal/quadrant setup. Unfortunately I couldn't even phathom a guess on which one is the 'correct' length. Your best bet is to try and get a rough estimate off your current cable, it should indicate one length or the other even if you are off by a few inches.

    Gene, you are correct that D&D doesn't list the steel retainer on their website, so a call is necessary to see if they still offer it or if anyone still does.
    Ted
    86 SVO Mustang
    17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

  6. #21
    Administrator SVOeric's Avatar
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    SVO's: 86-1C & 86-1E
    to ted's point on the cable, if you add the length of the dog-bone, and associated hardware, you're adding about 12-15 inches would be my guess, so it does seem realistic
    Eric C
    SVOCA Webmaster

  7. #22
    OVER-BOOST!! dagenham's Avatar
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    SVO's: '84 9W
    The dog bone cable is only about 2 inches long though. Thats still 16 inches left.

  8. #23
    Administrator SVOeric's Avatar
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    SVO's: 86-1C & 86-1E
    there's hardware around the dog-bone... the dog-bone don't just snap on to the end of the cable...
    Eric C
    SVOCA Webmaster

  9. #24
    OVER-BOOST!! svono50's Avatar
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    SVO's: 86 1C
    Quote Originally Posted by dagenham View Post
    I looked at Napa's website. They list two cable lengths. 60.75" and 42.18". That's an 18" difference. I can't believe there are two different cables made that are that much different in length.
    Ok, did some quick online research. The 42" (short) cable is noted as being for a 4-speed applications and the 60" (long) cable is noted for 5-speed applications on various parts websites. Looking at the available pictures the 60" cable looks more like the OEM one. I would go with the 'long' cable.

    Below are some screen shots I took off of Pioneer's website for reference. Looks like the 4-cyl cable is a spit longer than the 5.0L version, interesting.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Ted
    86 SVO Mustang
    17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

  10. #25
    14 PSI Boost
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    SVO's: 1985 1/2 9L
    I just replaced my OEM quadrant with a Steeda double-hook and firewall adjuster. My OEM quadrant and cable were working OK, but ya'll scared me. I replaced the OEM clutch cable with the Pioneer CA-315 that Ted shows in his post. The OEM cable was operating fine and looks good where you can see the cable itself. Car has 90K miles on it. The Pioneer cable fit perfectly, and the adjuster is threaded in almost all the way, maybe two turns out from the collapsed state. I did not have to modify the cable in any way, the ball at the end fit the clevis at the bellhousing properly. Yes, my back still hurts and my hand is scraped up from monkeying around under the dash.

    However, I am disappointed with the feel of the resulting setup. The clutch is much harder to press now. The engagement point is nearly identical to the OEM, but it is way harder to press the pedal, and it isn't as smooth as the OEM setup through the range of motion. I can only attribute it to the cable, since the radius of the Steeda quadrant is the same as the OEM so I don't see where there is any change in leverage or the mechanics of the operation of the pedal.

    Anyone else have similar experience with the Pioneer cable?

  11. #26
    14 PSI Boost
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    SVO's: 1985 1/2 9L
    Update on this thread. I just replaced the OEM clutch with a Spec 2+. I didn't touch the cable or dogbone or any of the linkage. Before the change, my pedal had little to no slop with the adjuster almost all the way in. Now I have the adjuster almost all the way out and I still have significant slop at the top of the travel. The only variable was the clutch and throwout bearing changed from Ford OEM to the Spec stuff. Has anyone else had an issue with the clutch adjustment when changing the OEM clutch to an aftermarket unit?

    BTW, my bearing retainer was somewhat scored and galled. It smoothed out with a little wet-sanding with 400 grit paper. It isn't perfect but it should be better than it was before. I had another bearing retainer from a '92 Mustang with the 2.3L that was almost perfectly smooth but it is different than the SVO retainer. The input shaft bearing is larger on the '92 than the SVO.

  12. #27
    OVER-BOOST!! svono50's Avatar
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    SVO's: 86 1C
    Sounds like the overall height of the Spec PP is shorter, which is interesting. You may want to give them a call to confirm what theirs is compared to the OEM. I went from the OEM setup to a Fidanza aluminum flywheel/Stage 2 Spec clutch and didn't have any issues with my stock quadrant. Can't remember if it settled in a different position or not, but it was within the stock quadrant range. I don't have any kind of adjuster on my cable.

    It seems that the steel bearing retainers for our T5's have become unobtanium the past couple years, since you can't seem to find them listed on anyone's website any more. I purchased a couple from D&D Performance in Wixom, Michigan many, many moons ago. You may want to start with them to see if they can help out. The galling on that snout will eventually lead to the death of your dog-bone cable as I learned over the years. The 'steel' bearing retainer is somewhat of a misnomer, since the main bearing retaining plate is still aluminum and only the 'snout' portion of the retainer (i.e.- where the throwout bearing rides) is changed to steel. Good luck.
    Ted
    86 SVO Mustang
    17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

  13. #28
    OVER-BOOST!! gbeaird's Avatar
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    SVO's: '86 2R
    Quote Originally Posted by ciscokid View Post
    Update on this thread. I just replaced the OEM clutch with a Spec 2+. I didn't touch the cable or dogbone or any of the linkage. Before the change, my pedal had little to no slop with the adjuster almost all the way in. Now I have the adjuster almost all the way out and I still have significant slop at the top of the travel. The only variable was the clutch and throwout bearing changed from Ford OEM to the Spec stuff. Has anyone else had an issue with the clutch adjustment when changing the OEM clutch to an aftermarket unit?

    <SNIP>
    Not much help, only to +1 your findings. When we did the clutch on our 86, I remember getting almost to the end of the adjuster before I had any useful pedal locaton/use. I do not, however, remember what we went back in with. It was literally decades ago when we did that.
    Gene Beaird,
    86 2R SVO, G Stock,
    Pearland, Texas

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