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Thread: My SN95 LCA Install

  
  1. #1
    12 PSI Boost Daily 86 SVO's Avatar
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    My SN95 LCA Install

    I'm not going to go over the pros and cons of this install, but I wanted to point out different things I ran into that I haven't yet seen posted here.

    For starters, I went ahead an went through most of the suspension on my 170k SVO. I've owned it since 2000 (with 36k miles), and have only replaced the koni shocks. I bought American Muscle upper and lower rear control arms, front SN95 LCA, Motorsport B springs, MM ball joint shims/adaptors, and poly front spring isolators. Probably going to need shocks again, but that might be for next year.

    The rear was fairly straight forward. Lots of liquid wrench and an impact are good to have. Took about 4-5 hours. My friend with a rust 86 GT said mine was a piece of cake compared to his. I have a pic of the arms/bushings on another thread http://www.svoca.com/forum/showthread.php?30167-Rear-Bushings

    The fronts were interesting at best. One spring was actually broken, about half of the bottom most coil. Probably explained why one side was approx 1/4-1/2" lower in the front.

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    I would recommend when putting the new LCA in, raise everything with the spring, then connect the ball joint and sway bar first, then try and wrestle the pivot bushings in. The rear most bushing will go in no problem, its the front most that is a little 'off' that seems to be the case here (same mooge part everyone buys). We tried everything initially with moving the rubber bushing over, but it just came back naturally. To get them in, you will need to BEVEL where the mount for the front goes in so the rubber bushing and the pin can slide over properly when jacking it up. Doesn't need a very big hammer, and don't go too crazy with it, only needs just a little room to guide it in. Once in, it should look like this:
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    Here the big thing that really made me write this. All of the pushing and shoving of the shock/spindle trying to get it in gets lost with where you are grabbing to move things. Please take my advice and CHECK YOUR BRAKE LINES to see if somebody didn't mistakenly grab an move it. In my 'test drive' with everything in, it only took 1/4 mi of the rubber brake lines (new last year) rubbing against the tire to breach them, and surprise, no brakes. I know I should of checked it when I put the wheel back on, but I didn't. You would be surprised how little the parking brake does at speed, but I was able to get it home without anybody getting hurt. Here is the line:
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    I'm still waiting for the suspension to 'settle', because the front is just a bit higher with the B springs that I like. It ended up the rear at the same height as before, and the front .25" higher (about 20 miles driven so far).

    When the weather gets better, I'll take some pics.
    Last edited by Daily 86 SVO; 04-16-2019 at 09:01 AM.
    86 SVO
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    88 Saleen 351-blown
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  2. #2
    OVER-BOOST!! svono50's Avatar
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    Thanx for posting the write-up and photos. Did you happen to measure up the two arms to see how close they really are in length? Did you notice any difference in camber? Just curious.

    You got lucky with the brakes, glad to hear you didn't have an accident due to it. I had one of my SS braided lines 'flip' on me and end up riding on the inner radius of my rim a few years ago. Didn't figure out that faint grinding sound till I lost my brakes and pulled the brake fluid soaked wheel to discover the carnage. I was ~200 miles from home, but was able to plug that line and 3-wheel brake it home.
    Ted
    86 SVO Mustang
    17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

  3. #3
    12 PSI Boost Daily 86 SVO's Avatar
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    I did not get a chance to specifically see what the distance was from the bushings to the ball joint. The only thing I have to go on is the comparison picture (ignore the sledgehammer):

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    86 SVO
    89 LX 5.0
    88 Saleen 351-blown
    99 Saleen

  4. #4
    OVER-BOOST!! svono50's Avatar
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    Fair enough, only geeks like me would be setting up some measurement layout to get that kind of data. Now that picture does bring up another question though. How did your swaybar endlinks line up to the new arms? From the picture, the SN95 mounting point is a lot closer to the spring cup than on the SVO arms, so I am guessing the links may be toed in and back a bit at the bottom?
    Ted
    86 SVO Mustang
    17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

  5. #5
    12 PSI Boost Daily 86 SVO's Avatar
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    Here is a bad pic of it, to me it's hardly noticeable. Maybe I can take some more pics later tonight.
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    86 SVO
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    88 Saleen 351-blown
    99 Saleen

  6. #6
    14 PSI Boost fast Ed's Avatar
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    Thanks for sharing your thoughts on this swap, and good questions Ted. I've got the pieces on hand to do this swap on my car, hopefully it gets completed this year.
    84 SVO 1E, option delete 11/83 prod.
    95 Jaguar XJR, also boosted


  7. #7
    OVER-BOOST!! svono50's Avatar
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    Looks closer than I would have thought looking at the a-arm pic, good deal.
    Ted
    86 SVO Mustang
    17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

  8. #8
    12 PSI Boost Daily 86 SVO's Avatar
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    Here is a pic of it before the suspension work:
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    After:
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    Like I said, the front is about .25-.50" higher now, back is about the same. Cloudy day and black car makes it tough to see, sorry.
    86 SVO
    89 LX 5.0
    88 Saleen 351-blown
    99 Saleen

  9. #9
    OVER-BOOST!! svono50's Avatar
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    You can tell the front is a bit higher in the after pic. I would give it some road miles and a little time for the isolators to settle in, but don't expect more than ~1/4" at most. Hard to tell, but the gap is almost the same front/rear, so it doesn't look like you have a dragging tail or anything.
    Ted
    86 SVO Mustang
    17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

  10. #10
    12 PSI Boost Daily 86 SVO's Avatar
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    I think what I'm stuck on is the fact that the car always had a rake to it (I like a slight rake), and now the rear has come down some, it took that away and I'm having a hard time with it.
    86 SVO
    89 LX 5.0
    88 Saleen 351-blown
    99 Saleen

  11. #11
    OVER-BOOST!! svono50's Avatar
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    I get that, I played with my springs too when I put them in. For me the front drop was too much and I had to double stack a top isolator to get the desired rake. Your choice would be to remove your top/bottom isolators to bring the front down or add/stack isolators in the back if you prefer to not start chopping sections of coil off.
    Ted
    86 SVO Mustang
    17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

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