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Thread: A tip that may help

  
  1. #1
    Max BOOST! High Roller's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Tupelo, MS.
    Posts
    459
    SVO's: 84 9W, 85 1B

    A tip that may help

    I discovered the other day that I had a bad ignition switch, because I had no turn signals or reverse lights. When I started removing the wiring connector from the switch, it separated where the plastic and metal join. Since I've never been one to just throw a part away without seeing if it can be repaired, I put it back together and discovered that the four small tabs that hold the two pieces together were not pressed in quite far enough to hold them together tightly. I held the two pieces together and using a small flat tip punch ( I think it was a nail set) and gently tapped the tabs until the switch was back together tightly. I did the same to the new switch to try to prevent and future problems with it. The old switch seems to be in good working order now. I will not use it on either of my cars, but will keep it for testing purposes if needed. So, my point is when the time comes to replace your ignition switch make sure the tabs holding it together are pressed in far enough to hold for a long time.
    Perry Mitchell
    SVOCA#187

  2. #2
    OVER-BOOST!! gbeaird's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Pearland, Texas
    Posts
    2,060
    SVO's: '86 2R
    Plastic locking tabs can be an issue as parts age and heat-cycle. I had a wiring harness locking tab not click in correctly on the HVAC computer on our 79 Seville that caused the connector for the power wire burn. Real pain to fix, and it defaults to defroster setting when the computer is inop.
    Gene Beaird,
    86 2R SVO, G Stock,
    Pearland, Texas

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