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Thread: Electrical glitch

  
  1. #1
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    Electrical glitch

    My 86 SVO is acting weird. When I have factory radio on and I either roll up/down the window or turn on driving lights the radio shuts off internally briefly for about a second or two. It only does it when Iím doing one of the above. Radio works fine otherwise when other items are not in use.

    i also noticed when head lights are on and I flip driving light switch the headlights dim briefly?

    could it be a voltage regulator or ? Car is stock so there is no Mickey Mouse wiring issues

  2. #2
    OVER-BOOST!! Bruce's Avatar
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    The headlight switch is notorious for going bad and causing electrical issues. The fog lights really need a relay wired in before it melts the wiring/switch. As for the windows IDK. I would put in a headlight switch and go from there.
    Bruce

  3. #3
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    Good advise
    Thanks

  4. #4
    OVER-BOOST!! svono50's Avatar
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    Sounds like your system is having a tough time with any kind of spikes with higher electrical draws (i.e.- window motors, driving lights, etc). Hate to say it, but the factory wiring around the alternator isn't far from 'Mickey Mouse' status. The connector wire and plug coming off the alternator is famous for creating all kinds of voltage supply issues. Believe it or not, our stock 60A alternators can do pretty good...if they have a decent straw to pump through. Short of going with an upgraded supply wire from your alternator to solenoid, check the harness connector for any heat damage and make sure the connection is clean and good.

    Below are some pics of what mine looked like before I put in a "Pat-in-LA" upgrade wire. Damage was from dirty connections creating arcing and heat. If I didn't have that upgrade wire option, I would have pulled the harness connectors out and given them a good cleaning and 'tune-up'. With a good clean path for the alternator to supply, my stock alternator has no issue with dimming lights at idle or slowing turn signals.

    Bruce is right on the driving/fog light switch, it is wired from the factory with the full current going through the switch and tends to melt it as the bulb contacts get worn/dirty and current increases. I added a relay under my center console to combat that issue many moons ago and haven't had any issues since...along with a little 'fix' I did to help out the driving light bulb to socket contacts.

    Good luck and let us know what you come up with.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Ted
    86 SVO Mustang
    17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

  5. #5
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    Great info and pix
    Thanks

  6. #6
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    You guys were correct. Alternator plug is toast. It even fell apart in my hands.
    Does anyone know where I can get a new one? NOS or OL (out of luck)Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #7
    OVER-BOOST!! Bruce's Avatar
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    You don't want the same one unless its a concourse correct car. There are upgrade threads on the site if you search.
    Bruce

  8. #8
    OVER-BOOST!! svono50's Avatar
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    Hey, that looks familiar!

    I am with Bruce, you should upgrade to something better. I kept the OEM harness only for the use of the Field and Stator wires and abandoned the Battery/Power wire. There are places out there to get upgraded power wire kits that should bolt in. I just checked the PA Performance site and their 'standard short' wire (9904) looks like it might be a possible fit for our cars. You would just need to check with them. Any upgraded wire should also include a fuse in it to, so if something gets grounded out you don't send your favorite ride up in flames.
    Ted
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  9. #9
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    Thinking of just hard wiring/solder the to ends together thus eliminating the connector all together. I would just have to disconnect wires from back of alternator if it ever needed changing

  10. #10
    OVER-BOOST!! svono50's Avatar
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    I wouldn't be concerned with removing the connection point either, no biggie to take it of the alternator post to change. To get you going, soldering the ends together would be an OK solution, but I would still consider going to something 'better' for a long term solution.

    If my memory serves me right, that wire is a #10 AWG and the general current rating is 55 amps on that gauge wire. Considering our alternator is rated at 60A, that wire is a bare minimum, even that the 55A rating on the wire is a conservative one. A #8 wire brings you up to 73A capacity and a #6 is 101A and #4 is 135A. The PA power wire kits (standard & premium) are #4 wire, likely a high strand welding wire and would make sure you have a nice 'fat' straw to push the current through and not choke the system down (i.e.- minimal voltage drop).
    Ted
    86 SVO Mustang
    17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

  11. #11
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    Thanks for info

  12. #12
    Administrator SVOeric's Avatar
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    If the plug was that bad, you'll be seeing some performance increases as well. The battery dont have the amps to make spark that the the alternator does.
    Eric C
    SVOCA Webmaster

  13. #13
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    It certainly is improved

  14. #14
    OVER-BOOST!! svono50's Avatar
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    It is amazing how much better the ignition can perform if it has full power. Glad you got a noticeable improvement and basically prevented a potential electrical fire!
    Ted
    86 SVO Mustang
    17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

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