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Thread: Radio re-install

  
  1. #1
    6 PSI Boost amassengale's Avatar
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    SVO's: '86 9L 1wing origown

    Radio re-install

    I just got my original radio back from Ron at Southern Electronics. Took 8 months due to covid, but happy nonetheless.
    I got it wrangled into to its space finally, and hooked up the 2 wiring harnesses, but forgot to check where the antenna cable plugs in, and of course, it's mighty hard to search on the radio now.
    Anyone know where it plugs in?

  2. #2
    OVER-BOOST!! svono50's Avatar
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    I hate when that happens! Here is a quick pic, somehow was able to easily dig out my spare unit from the library of parts up in the rafters. The plug is in the upper driver's side corner, remember you are looking at the rear of the radio in the pic, above the power harness.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Ted
    86 SVO Mustang
    17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

  3. #3
    6 PSI Boost amassengale's Avatar
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    SVO's: '86 9L 1wing origown
    That is awesome! Thanks so much!
    Shouldn't be any problem now. I just have to hook that and the ground wire up.
    When I first turned it on after the wiring harnesses hooked up, it only lit up with no radio or cassette working.
    Hoping the ground wire fixes that, or at least hopefully the input Southern Electronics added for my iphone will at least work.

  4. #4
    OVER-BOOST!! svono50's Avatar
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    Glad to help and I had the radio laying around for the shot.

    So you had a line input added, that is cool! Maybe I should consider sending my spare unit out for a 'tune up' and enhancement??

    I use the cassette adapter to hook up to my MP3 player to bring my library along. Used to have a SanDisk Sansa player that would run ~30 hours on a single charge that was nice for my trips to the Reunions. My new SanDisk Clip Sport Go only lasts ~14 hours, so a recharge is needed to last the full round trip now.
    Last edited by svono50; 11-19-2020 at 09:02 PM.
    Ted
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  5. #5
    6 PSI Boost amassengale's Avatar
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    SVO's: '86 9L 1wing origown
    I just tested the radio again (that ground wire in the back is pretty important to connect), and EVERYTHING works, bettter than new! Kudos to Ron at Southern Electronics.
    The line goes to a small plug box, that I will keep in the glovebox, along with the adapter to my iphone. I never imagined in '86 sound like that coming from this car! Of course, I've had to replace the speakers, but still...
    Now I just have to somehow figure out how to put the interior back together, and find a place for most of those 88 little screws I have scattered around!

  6. #6
    OVER-BOOST!! Bruce's Avatar
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    So what all did he change/fix and what did it cost? My radio only works on FM and the tape player slowed way down 15 years ago.
    Bruce

  7. #7
    6 PSI Boost amassengale's Avatar
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    SVO's: '86 9L 1wing origown
    My AM and cassette had died, plus static when using control knobs. He fixed all that, and added a 3 ft line coming off the back to a small box to plug in a 3.5mm
    cable. I use a 3.5mm to lightning plug adapter to play from my phone.
    It cost $350 and 8 months.

  8. #8
    12 PSI Boost spt87a's Avatar
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    SVO's: 1986 1C, sunroof
    Quote Originally Posted by amassengale View Post
    My AM and cassette had died, plus static when using control knobs. He fixed all that, and added a 3 ft line coming off the back to a small box to plug in a 3.5mm
    cable. I use a 3.5mm to lightning plug adapter to play from my phone.
    It cost $350 and 8 months.
    I'd imagine a lot of it is re-capping (replacing the electrolytic capacitors), replace any blown lights bulbs and the cassette deck mostly would be mechanical stuff - cleaning and re-greasing/oiling where needed. For the control knobs - those are potentiometers and usually squirting with deoxit and exercising the knobs after will correct that. On my 86 GT the controls are real noisy - I tried pulling the knobs and using some WD-40 electrical contact cleaner just squirted in with a tube thru the front. It helped some but I think deoxit would get it 100%.

    For the line in - was a switch added to turn that on? Does it have to be in a certain mode to use (AM, FM or a cassette inserted). If you insert a cassette while using line in does the line in cut off and the cassette is heard instead? Just curious where it was tapped in. I've been using a blue tooth cassette adapter and wired cassette adapter either of which work ok. Did you also send the amp and have that worked on as well? Any tips for removing/installing the radio? Center console needs to come out - then did you need to loosen the dash at all or does the radio drop out without doing that? I'm gearing up for radio work as a winter project so any tips appreciated.

    My 86 SVO radio works on AM/FM but the cassette mechanism needs cleaning and bulbs need replacing. My 86 GT radio sounds like yours - AM not working (it works when first switched to but then over 15 seconds or so fades to silence) and the cassette mechanism really needs cleaning and head alignment. I've suspected that replacing the old electrolytic caps - including in the AMP - could make a big difference in sound quality so hearing your results gives me hope.
    Last edited by spt87a; 11-23-2020 at 03:12 PM.

  9. #9
    6 PSI Boost amassengale's Avatar
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    SVO's: '86 9L 1wing origown
    Yeah, I was guessing most of that was what he did, but I didn't ask specifics.
    I don't know specifically where it's tapped in, just that there's a new wire out the back to about a 1 inch metal box with a plug hole.
    If I plug my adapter into it, it cuts out whatever else is playing at the time (almost entirely).
    I didn't even consider sending in the amp, even though it could probably use it. It's working fine now though, and I'm tired of waiting to move on.
    I took out the center console, and the dash pad (replacing the old speakers) and instrument panel, and tried a long time to get the radio removed after unbolting the front top mounting brackets. After much frustration and knicked up hands and a multi-year time-out, I took out the lower brace, tried and failed again, and 2 years later I magically twisted it the right way to clear it out the back toward driver's side last spring. Replacing it I guess I was more confident as I now knew it was possible, and got it back in in less than an hour. Those two front mounting brackets really are a pain, as they hook onto every possible obstruction going in and out. If you take out the lower dash, it would be a lot easier I imagine, but I didn't want to take it down that far.
    Good luck!!

  10. #10
    12 PSI Boost spt87a's Avatar
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    SVO's: 1986 1C, sunroof
    Quote Originally Posted by amassengale View Post
    I took out the center console, and the dash pad (replacing the old speakers) and instrument panel, and tried a long time to get the radio removed after unbolting the front top mounting brackets. After much frustration and knicked up hands and a multi-year time-out, I took out the lower brace, tried and failed again, and 2 years later I magically twisted it the right way to clear it out the back toward driver's side last spring. Replacing it I guess I was more confident as I now knew it was possible, and got it back in in less than an hour. Those two front mounting brackets really are a pain, as they hook onto every possible obstruction going in and out. If you take out the lower dash, it would be a lot easier I imagine, but I didn't want to take it down that far.
    Good luck!!
    Ok, thanks! I know somewhere I saw detailed instructions on loosening up the dash for heater core replacement - I'll find that to get some more pointers.

  11. #11
    OVER-BOOST!! svono50's Avatar
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    You can get the radio out/in w/o having to drop the dash, it is possible with patience and time from the driver's side footwell with the console removed. It is quite a tight fit, but it does go and it still easier than loosening up the dash. I had my radio 'tuned up' back in the mid-90's and it is still working well today. I too upgraded my speakers, but use my factory amp and have a small Realistic sub tube (yep, Radio Shack) to add some depth of sound.
    Ted
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  12. #12
    12 PSI Boost spt87a's Avatar
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    SVO's: 1986 1C, sunroof
    Quote Originally Posted by svono50 View Post
    You can get the radio out/in w/o having to drop the dash, it is possible with patience and time from the driver's side footwell with the console removed. It is quite a tight fit, but it does go and it still easier than loosening up the dash. I had my radio 'tuned up' back in the mid-90's and it is still working well today. I too upgraded my speakers, but use my factory amp and have a small Realistic sub tube (yep, Radio Shack) to add some depth of sound.
    Ok - that's kind of what I was thinking. The factory radio/amp setup seems decent enough. In the GT I replaced the rear speakers which made quite a difference already. The SVO radio with no changes is better but the factory speakers get a bit crunchy with heavy bass. So do the radio "tune up", new speakers and then maybe add a small sub to enhance the low end.

    When I do this soon I'll go for no dash loosening and see how it goes.

  13. #13
    6 PSI Boost amassengale's Avatar
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    SVO's: '86 9L 1wing origown
    Quote Originally Posted by svono50 View Post
    You can get the radio out/in w/o having to drop the dash, it is possible with patience and time from the driver's side footwell with the console removed. It is quite a tight fit, but it does go and it still easier than loosening up the dash. I had my radio 'tuned up' back in the mid-90's and it is still working well today. I too upgraded my speakers, but use my factory amp and have a small Realistic sub tube (yep, Radio Shack) to add some depth of sound.
    Which wires did you hook to sub to?

  14. #14
    OVER-BOOST!! svono50's Avatar
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    I tapped into the (+) rear speaker feeds in the back hatch area. The tube is a self-amplified unit, so I technically only needed a line input, but the actual speaker feed was also an option. I was too lazy to run a feed up to the dash to tap into the radio to factory amp feed. It isn't 'optimal' for the sub, since the sub's output actually increases as I fade to the fronts (i.e.- less output to the rears). There is also an output adjustment on the sub, so I just found a good balance between front/rear fade and sub output.

    Pulling out the manual (yes, I still have it), it is a 100W, 8" sub. It won't rattle the mirrors of a neighboring car, but it does nicely in the SVO to bring more life to the music. I actually have a second one up in my rafters, which I bought and installed in my former '97 Cougar and '98 SVT Contour. I should consider dusting it off and putting it in my Mini or maybe even the SVO, since it isn't doing anything other than collecting dust.
    Ted
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  15. #15
    6 PSI Boost amassengale's Avatar
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    SVO's: '86 9L 1wing origown
    Ah, thanks, that's probably what I'll do. I'll have to find me one.

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