Header thoughts

[osburn]

Its time for a hader on my 84 2C. I currently have an E6 manifold but it is starting to show signs of cracking. So I am looking for everyones thoughts on which header I should or shouldn't get. I am running an TC intercooler and I would like to find a header that installs with a minimum of modification.
Any thoughts would be welcomed...

[sar4497]

I plan on getting Bob's (from turboford.org). It's affordable, doesn't require modifications (that I know of), and will support my hp goals.

[osburn]

I guess I need to call or mail bob and find out if it will bolt on to by 84 with it's water lines under the exhaust manifold and what kind fo hp bump I might expect...

[GAboySVO]

If you want something that looks good and flows well, you might consider Rods. I believe SVOeric or Bud has put one on their car and have posted Dyno sheets in the members section.

I've seen pictures of both Bob's and Rob's and if I were in the market this is the one I would get.

http://www.geocities.com/rod87tbird/mypage.html

[bendutro]

Bob's logs are great headers, they are direct swaps (with or without EGR option) and are good for about 25-30 hp gains on a typical car.

[Eyelawdoc]

Bob's logs are affordable, efficient, well built and strong!

[svobud]

Originally posted by bendutro
Bob's logs are good for about 25-30 hp gains on a typical car.

Not really .. not if that's the only modification you're doing. Bolting one on is not going to make 20-30rwhp with a "presto".

Bob's logs are affordable, efficient, well built and strong!

I'll definitely second that. I've seen one in person. Not looked at pictures of it.

I have Rod's header (not the center mount). Do a search, I've talked about it here. It's a bolt on part, but if you own a 84-85, you will need to change the water coolant lines (looks like you knew that already). Otherwise, true bolt on part. It did show gains significant gains .. my car is NOT stock. Close .. but not really. KnowhatImean?

[NY eric]

ATR

I can strongly recomend not buying the ATR. do a search and listen to my rants. When I get a free 600 bucks I will be calling rob and geting a qualiy peice instead of this peice of ****. Untill then I will deal with the cracks and the leaks. I cant wait to call ATR and order my 3rd set of bolts because I have to take this off and on so many times fixing cracks and leaks.

[vrinner]

Header ?

Shouldn't the length of each pipe be the same length on "headers" I've never owned a car with headers but I thought that one of the things that made headers better than manifolds was the equal length of each pipe for optimal performance gains.

Thanks for the info...

[kiwi]

Ouch!

.I can strongly recomend not buying the ATR. do a search and listen to my rants. When I get a free 600 bucks I will be calling rob and geting a qualiy peice instead of this peice of ****.

Ouch Eric. Robs do look nice; but, No probs with my ATR with the equal length tubes.......I also have the exhaust supported about the tranny area to get the weight (of the exhaust & turbo) off of the header.....I think the design is good and the collector sized/flanged well/ A smidge of 'tinny' sound heard with the turbo whooshhhhhhh........Any pics neede osburn?.......

Edited....

[NY eric]

Kiwi

Agreed that equal lenght headers are better than non. But I went to a header to solve another issue and that was to get that heat log off the head. Performance was not the issue for me.

Does your ATR sound like a tin can too is is it just mine? Like I said in previous posts I probably got a dud. I cant wait to talk with the rep again.

[kiwi]

Edited.........

....my previous post Eric.........

[BoostedSVO]

Cracks

I have heard of headers cracking from the high temps. I heard that the tubes are so short the temps reach 1400-1500 degrees. I want a header but don't want o have to pull it off to get it rewelded every so often for cracks.

[Pat_in_L.A.]

Originally posted by NY eric
I went to a header to solve another issue and that was to get that heat log off the head. Performance was not the issue for me.

OK then here's the paradox. The original cast iron exhaust absorbs heat better than stainless, which is known for it's thermal resistance qualities. Thermal barrier coatings (I believe that yours had that too, Eric) help prevent heat from migrating. When these coatings are placed on the outside of the manifold they're not doing what you had planned because the manifold still picks up the heat, but mitigates it's radiation to surrounding external components. If you coat just the inside of a cast exhaust you are doing what you had intended (heat sink wise for the head) as well as keeping more heat in the exhaust path where the turbo gets a better advantage but the outside doesn't appear finished off.

Eric, you know that I'm not a fan of thin wall tubing up to or for the first foot or two after the turbo. That tinny sound is only one reason. Cracks (longevity) are another reason. Keeping the heat inside the pipes rather than baking the intercooler, floorboard, or any other surrounding components is another reason.

So here's your perfect exhaust: A thick wall iron or steel (not stainless) header which has thermal barrier coating on the inside only and has a hi-temp decorative coating on the outside. The down spout and down tube for the first foot or two would be thick wall stainless with a support bracket, followed by progressively thinner wall tubing on the way back determined by heat dissipation as the exhaust flows. Typical dissipation tends to be 150 degrees per foot as measured real time on a complete car. Some comprimises have to be made for practicality.

Wow that was a mouthful. I hope this helps and makes up for all the stupid posts I made about the roaches I found under the carpet.

[NY eric]

Thought

Pat I understand in a weird way what you ment. I am trying to keep the turbo from heating up the head, I have the downpipe only wraped to keep the heat moving out of the engin compartment. The log would stay hotter longer after shut down than the header, I verified this with a thermocouple. But the down side once i moved the Tbird IC back on top of the motor due to my run over with my Audi IC I am not getting the nice cold charge anymore because the header just throws off more of the heat durring opperation.

I like the roach stories but that is just me. Thoes little buggers just get everywhere when you arent looking.