What is the size of .....

[lonchair]

Anybody know what the size of the studs and nuts that bolt the turbo onto the exhaust manifold are?

Thanks

[russde]

turbo to ex man. studs

Funny you should ask this Lon ( yes, I realize that you asked it over a year ago ). I have spent the afternoon checking bolt stores, NAPA, Ford dealers, etc.

Results: Ford doesn't carry them, but the parts guys were able to give me the size M10 x 1.5 x 1.5 x 43.5. The bolt stores don't carry anything like them, most of their studs are fine thread on one end and coarse on the other. NAPA can get me a box of 10 (54 mm long instead of 43.5) for $18 plus $3 for shipping.

So I'm still checking.....

Seriously considering a proper sized bolt to avoid all this hassle, is there a reason I shouldn't use a bolt?

[Pat_in_L.A.]

Hmmm...

I wonder if other manufacturers that used the same turbo still have the studs available. 84-86 Nissan 300 ZX, Saab, Volvo, Dodge. What else ?

Oh and while on the exhaust fastner subject, are the manifold to cylinder head bolts still available?

[russde]

studs

Originally posted by MikeFleming
You are running a brace, right?-Mike Fleming
/***/

My exhaust is stock (right now) so I don't know what brace you are refering to Mike. Could you elaborate?

[richsvo]

There is a brace that goes from near the turbo to the engine block for support...
Rich

[AT6svo]

Well, this is what I have saved in my little SVO text file regarding these parts:

For turbo E6 studs and nuts:
I just bought a set of these this week. Here are the part #'s
3818823 (stud) 3818824 (nut)

I went the diesel section of the yellow pages and started calling truck shops and one of them gave me the phone # for the local Cummins reseller.

FWIW, I have not verified the above info.

I reused the stock E6 studs on my 84 driver and are currently using non-locking nuts with a beefy lock washer. I am also using the brace. No problems and I drive this car everywhere.

[SVOeric]

AT6 -- You should really get some locking nuts on there--

In about 100 miles, those lock washers will be" flatter than a pancake" I'll bet you breakfast on it!! (Humm -- maybe I should go eat lunch!!)

If you can't find them locally, last time I checked, SVPU had them, and they were pretty CHEAP!

[Pat_in_L.A.]

The Nissan Turbo-ZX of 1984 through 1988 used the same Garrett T-3. Two stainless locktabs went on the studs before the nuts were installed and then the tabs were bent to keep the nuts from backing off. Those would fit and may be still available.

EDIT: After poking around on google a bit I found this Saab owner's solution. It seems that ARP has studs with 12 point nuts for his application which, once again, is a Garrett T-3.

http://www.kyankton.net/Exhaust.htm

[Wolf]

I bought a set from Kensmerkur on TF this past spring. I guess he got the specs and had a couple sets made. IIRC, it was about $20 for a set of 4 studs and 4 nuts.

http://ubb.turboford.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=008576

[AT6svo]

Originally posted by SVOeric
AT6 -- You should really get some locking nuts on there--

In about 100 miles, those lock washers will be" flatter than a pancake" I'll bet you breakfast on it!!

Eric,
Thx for the heads up. I have several thousand miles on it so far & no issues. I'm just lazy and I enjoy running science experiments. My E6 also has been welded up in an area where I broke through that is holding just fine. When I put my other 86 back together it will have the correct hardware.

On the same topic, how does one go about installing the studs once procured? I tried the nut against nut method but both nuts still spun.

-mike

[SVOeric]

I'll still bet you that if you pull one of those nuts off, the lock washer is flat as can be

I believe when I installed my studs, I used a small pipe wrench --

the center of the stud (between the 2 threaded sections) sticks up farther than the threads, I used this area with the small pipe (monkey) wrench to get it most of the way in, then used the 2-nuts for the last few turns.

[Pat_in_L.A.]

Here are two more part numbers that may work. I haven't ordered them yet but I looked through the parts book at work last night for IHC/Navistar/Detroit Turbo to manifold studs and nuts and found these:

STUD: 1821642C3 (M10 x 44.5mm)
NUT: 1821648C1 (6-point)

[AT6svo]

Originally posted by MikeFleming
"I'll still bet you that if you pull one of those nuts off, the lock washer is flat as can be"

I'll second that one. As soon as the lockwashers hit ~500 degrees F, they're toasted.
/***/

I'm sure you're both 100% correct. In fact I don't doubt it in the least. Like I said, science experiment. So far so good LOL!

Kinda along the same reasons you don't cut springs with a torch...

Anyway, thx for the info on the stud installation, can't remeber if I was using harderend nuts or not, either way they I torqued them in quite snuggly.

Need to look into if Grade8 makes special nuts for this configuration, i.e. along the lines of their locking header bolts...

-mike

[indiana dave]

On the same topic, has anyone used standard bolts for the turbo elbow? I'm missing one, and was going to get some at the hardware store.... My the look of this thread, They might not hold up well. What about stainless bolts, and nuts for the turbo-to-manifold mounting?

[venomizd93]

anyone ever try a company called Fastenal??? I've delt with them through work and they seem to stock most any bolt you would need or find.....I don't know but would assume they have a website.