In the middle of changing my fuel pump...with pictures

[Oldham_Racing]

i have a couple questions...

what wire is the ground resisance wire people have talked about eliminating?

also the pump that i took out im not sure if it is a stock pump or not. the name on it is denso. the numbers on it are 195130...anyone familiar with this pump or is it stock? thx,

josh

[turbo2.3stang]

The wire is in the trunk area before the grommet that goes through the floor.

[NavySVO]

ground wire that turbo2.3stang said continues into the hatch area......should be black, the other one is pink I believe. Splice into it with a 10-12 gage wire and run it to the chassis. There is already a tailight ground connection just to the driver's side (IIRC) of the hatch latch....green anodized looking screw.
Some folks have made the splice right at the gas tank....your call.

[Oldham_Racing]

Originally Posted by NavySVO

ground wire that turbo2.3stang said continues into the hatch area......should be black, the other one is pink I believe. Splice into it with a 10-12 gage wire and run it to the chassis. There is already a tailight ground connection just to the driver's side (IIRC) of the hatch latch....green anodized looking screw.
Some folks have made the splice right at the gas tank....your call.

the black wire is the one i splice not the pink...correct?

[MikeFleming]

the black wire is the one i splice not the pink...correct?

Correct.

There's 4 wires coming through the rear floor area - two for the sender and two for the fuel pump. The harness you have unplugged that comes down with the tank does NOT contain the resistance wire. So just put that all back together after swapping pumps, etc.

The resistance wire connects inside the "trunk" harness and is a couple inches inside from the rubber grommet. Then the black wire changes to the white resistance wire - that's what needs to be bypassed. Easiest to tag a new wire to the short black portion and run it in parallel to the existing white/black wire to chassis ground. The blue crimp connector is the new parallel ground wire.

Make sense?

[Oldham_Racing]

yeap, got it all done and finished. guage climbs like it should now, and show about 58 lbs. of pressure under full boost

and damn does this thing pull hard...wow

[MikeFleming]

and show about 58 lbs. of pressure under full boost

So you're only running 18 PSI boost, eh?

[Pat_in_L.A.]

Did you guys just give him 84-85 swap instructions for an 86?

His sig says that he owns an 86.

[NavySVO]

Originally Posted by Pat_in_L.A.

Did you guys just give him 84-85 swap instructions for an 86?

His sig says that he owns an 86.

I wasn't even paying attention to that, I was just responding to his question...........

[Oldham_Racing]

ok so mike maybe it is running a couple more pounds than i'd like under full boost. i back the regulator off just a tad and see. i am running 16-17 pounds of boost right now.

when i glanced at the gauge last night it looked like 58. but ill take it out today (so i can see in the daylight). all i know is it was climbing like it should

what did you guys mean by instruction for an 86 and not an 84 85 model?

[Pat_in_L.A.]

84-85 dual pump systems had the resistor wire setup.

85.5-86 had the single in-tank pump with the high manifold vacuum resistance governed by a vacuum/pressure switch located under the hood near the master cylinder. You can spot it by the hose going to it from the vacuum tree.

[SVO-SMITTY]

Pat, just curious, so does that mean that the 85.5 and 86 SVO's do not need the x-tra spliced ground wire?

[Pat_in_L.A.]

There is no resistor wire back there on an 85.5-86, so there is no need to bypass a resistor that isn't there.

[SVO-SMITTY]

Thanks

[DEVILDOG]

I plan on adding the bigger pump at a later time but have access to the fuel pump wiring now from on-going interior work. Is it OK to add the extra ground wire and by-pass the resistance wire with the stock '84 fuel pumps?

Thanks.