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  • LA3 swap

    when doing this swap -- you need to have 35# injectors.
    ALL SVO's came with large VAM's, so you already have that.
    ok -- here we go
    take the old computer out of the passenger side kick pannel
    pull the plastic cover off, and remove the plug from the computer (10 mm socket for the bolt)
    remove the red piece from the center of the plug, this piece locks the wires into the plug. Don't worry, the wires won't fall out when you do this.
    on the grey plug, you will see numbers, these are the pin numbers and will be pretty important in a bit

    You will want to change the wires, in this order.....

    pull wire 43, plug into slot 27 (white w/black stripe) Vane air Temp
    pull wire 25- plug into slot 43 (green w/purple stripe) vane air flow
    pull wire 32- plug into slot 31 (Purple wire) boost control
    Pull wire 35- plug into slot 33 (Yellow wire) EGR shutoff
    Pull wire 30- plug into slot 24 (Yellow w/red stripe) Octane switch
    If you so desire, add a pin into slot 25 for the ACT sensor.
    if you do use the ACT sensor, you will also need to tap off the signal return line somewhere under the hood.

    re-assemble all the connectors, and computer, and you should be good to go.
    Eric C
    SVOCA Webmaster

  • #2
    Thanks Eric! All I need is the injectors now(and the car here...)
    -Eric
    85 1C, 85.5 1B
    10 GT Premium
    01 Jeep Wrangler

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    • #3
      Eric,

      Can you tell me which is the signal return line? I have the new LA and ACT installed, I just have not been able to locate the signal retune line.

      Thnanks

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      • #4
        the signal return is the wire that runs to almost every sensor...
        VAM, TPS, ECT.... It runs off pin 46 on the computer.
        Eric C
        SVOCA Webmaster

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        • #5
          Just to clarify... The car will run just fine without the ACT sensor. I've been running mine without it for 4-5 years.
          If it ain't broke... Give me some time!

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          • #6
            Originally posted by indiana dave View Post
            Just to clarify... The car will run just fine without the ACT sensor. I've been running mine without it for 4-5 years.
            but it wont add timing when it gets cold.
            Last edited by Alex L; 11-13-2009, 02:21 PM. Reason: because i post before researching the correct answer
            redneck engineered 84 2a, stock 84 1D.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Alex L View Post
              but it wont start yanking the timing out when the charge air gets hot until the knock sensor kicks in... but thats a whole 'nother story.
              Incorrect information. The ACT does not pull timing. If the ACT is installed and measuring an intake temperature at 76°F or less, the EEC will add 1-2° of timing. Reference maps M_15A0 and M_1518

              If the ACT is not present the EEC defaults the ACT to 120°F.

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              • #8
                Sorry for the second post.

                As an alternative to running a new wire for the ACT, switch the KS wire to the ACT position in the EEC connector and use the KS wires in the engine bay to connect your ACT. This is assuming you have already unplugged your knock sensor (KS) and are no longer using it.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by caroth View Post
                  Incorrect information. The ACT does not pull timing. If the ACT is installed and measuring an intake temperature at 76°F or less, the EEC will add 1-2° of timing.
                  yoiks! you're right of course.

                  *moves the baseline refeenece to STP* TADA! timing is pulled when it gets hotter.
                  redneck engineered 84 2a, stock 84 1D.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by caroth View Post
                    Sorry for the second post.

                    As an alternative to running a new wire for the ACT, switch the KS wire to the ACT position in the EEC connector and use the KS wires in the engine bay to connect your ACT. This is assuming you have already unplugged your knock sensor (KS) and are no longer using it.
                    have you tried the newer style act sensors from ford insted of the 88 era?
                    Confucius says" a closed mouth gathers no foot"

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                    • #11
                      Eric,

                      Which type? There are several configurations ranging from all plastic sensors with the 3/8" NPT threads, to the push-in intake hose type. All of them produce the same "transfer" and can be used as an ACT. They can also be used as the VAT if you change the transfer in the EEC. I have used the small push-in type in MAF conversions with 4 wire MAFs.

                      I don't like the ACT in the lower intake, I always place the ACT in the gutted upper.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by caroth View Post
                        Eric,

                        Which type? There are several configurations ranging from all plastic sensors with the 3/8" NPT threads, to the push-in intake hose type. All of them produce the same "transfer" and can be used as an ACT. They can also be used as the VAT if you change the transfer in the EEC. I have used the small push-in type in MAF conversions with 4 wire MAFs.

                        I don't like the ACT in the lower intake, I always place the ACT in the gutted upper.
                        Part # is DY754. I bought one and a pigtail hoping it will be a plug and play. I just need a test mule since my 88 bird in no longer.
                        Confucius says" a closed mouth gathers no foot"

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                        • #13
                          So today I finally put in the LA3 I bought from Stanggy. Is it me or is there something a little different with the LA3. I've been running the A-237 cam since 1991 and it always sort of "went home" beyond 5,000 RPMs but now it seems to like the 5K-6K band much more. Maybe 7K? Where does it end? Or is this my imagination?
                          <-Find the car; women: 0.001 secs, men: 2.4 mins.

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                          • #14
                            Is this the same for swapping in a PE?
                            "If there's no plan, what can go wrong...?"

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                            • #15
                              NO!
                              PE is the stock computer, so the wiring is the same, the only thing that might change is the boost controller.
                              Eric C
                              SVOCA Webmaster

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