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New Rear Control Arms on Slapper Bar cars

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  • New Rear Control Arms on Slapper Bar cars

    Okay, I went to install my GW Rear Control Arms (Part# TBF-1) and as I got to looking I noticed that the slapper bar system is in the way. Here are my options as I see it and I would like to hear from anyone who has come across this situation and what they did. Thanks.

    1) Remove Slapper Bars and do not re-install. If I did this, I think I would experience wheel hop, but what I don't know is if the Rear Control Arms I'm using will allow me to eliminate the slapper bars.

    2) Step up to Quad Shock design. Too bad Ford still doesn't sell this kit.

    Appreciate the help and any other suggestions. A buddy of mine is trying to talk me into a 8.8 rear and the same time, but I'm not 100% sold on this.


    EDIT - forgot to spell check
    Last edited by Mr. Pink; 01-11-2004, 01:19 PM.

  • #2
    I upgraded to a 8.8 on a slapper car i have no wheel hop

    Rob
    1984 SVO 1C
    1966 Shelby GT350H needs to be restored

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    • #3
      Yeah, but are you using your slapper bars or have you removed them?

      Comment


      • #4
        I removed them they really wont work anyway the tc 8.8 has a welded bracket on for the quad shock that is in about the same place as the slapper would go.
        I got the frame brackets for the quad shock from a 89 stang and i welded them to my frame but i have not bolted in a quad shock yet.The quad brackets on the tc rear are taller then a stang you have to drill a hole in them for a stang .

        Rob
        1984 SVO 1C
        1966 Shelby GT350H needs to be restored

        Comment


        • #5
          Rob, ok, understand now. Thanks for the info.

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          • #6
            I'm willing to bet that when you install the Global West lower arms and new Ford upper rear arms that you won't get any wheelhop at all. I believe that the rubber bushings were the culprit when it came to wheel hop. I think that the sway bar mounts on the Global west arms would interfere with the slapper bars anyway.

            I'd install the 8.8" rear too, not so much to eliminate wheel hop, but for the availability of more gear ratios and stronger/better diffs, like Torsen, Auburn and Tru-track.

            HTH WS

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            • #7
              Originally posted by CP86SVO
              I'm willing to bet that when you install the Global West lower arms and new Ford upper rear arms that you won't get any wheelhop at all.
              Yeah, that was one of the things we were thinking yesterday when we went to install the new parts. And you are correct, the sway bar mounts on the GW part will interfere with the slapper bar. This was one of the reasons we decided to wait to do the install and get everything figured out before diving back into it. Appreciate the help so far and I am looking at the option of putting a 8.8 rear in at the same time if I can find one for a good price....

              Also, just out of curiosity for those who have read this: does anyone have a way to install bolts and keep them from rusting up over the years? We actually broke an impact socket trying to loosen a bolt that has only been on the car for 3 years. I didn't know if there was something I could use that would still allow me to properly tighten the bolt without it seizing over the years. Thanks.

              Jason

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              • #8
                It's quite possible that the impact was ready to go anyways. It may have been around a lot longer than the 3-year old bolt.

                I installed an 8.8 (3.55 ratio) with an Auburn in my 84 SVO when the original side gears puked. It's holding up well, even though the original slapper bars can no longer mount up to the T-Bird differential housing. When any of my other SVO's decide to do the same, I'll put the 8.8 in them and save the old parts in repaired condition to go along with the car as a package for the next owner.

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                • #9
                  Rusting Away

                  Thank goodness that we here in the West don't have the problems that you Easterners do with water, humidity, salt and corrosion!

                  When you put it back together, you might try using anti-seize compound on the threads. It is sold under a variety of brand names. I keep a tube of the Permatex brand handy in my toolbox.

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                  • #10
                    never seize

                    Never seize is one brand that i have used.
                    Any parts house should have something.


                    Rob
                    1984 SVO 1C
                    1966 Shelby GT350H needs to be restored

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      permatex anti seize compound

                      get the size that has a brush built in the lid it makes it easy to apply to threads and it won't get all over your hands

                      Rob
                      Rob

                      85 4e

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by roberto2000
                        permatex anti seize compound

                        get the size that has a brush built in the lid it makes it easy to apply to threads and it won't get all over your hands

                        Rob
                        That stuff will ALWAYS find a way to get somewhere on you! I've used it alot working on boilers and such... Damn stuff always get somewhere goofy like a spot on your nose or ear...

                        Later, Eric
                        -Eric
                        85 1C, 85.5 1B
                        10 GT Premium
                        01 Jeep Wrangler

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                        • #13
                          yeah you end up looking like the tin man
                          on the wizard of oz

                          Rob
                          Rob

                          85 4e

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