No announcement yet.

Need some transmission help please.

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Need some transmission help please.

    My '84 is on it's original T5 according to my pile of paper work.
    I'm the 4th owner. A year and a half ago when I bought it, I drained it and put in Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF. It does not leak.

    Just this evening it developed a "Ker-Clunk Ker-Clunk" that you can feel through the shifter - and hear quite audibly.

    Every gear but 4th. 4th being the direct drive (or something like that) makes sense. This "ker-clunk" accelerates as the car does in each gear, but is consistent, as I go up in gears the "ker-clunk" slow's down as compared to the speed as I go through the gears. In other words the "ker-clunk" at 50 in 5th is the same as the "ker-clunk" in 1st at 15.

    What died?

    I really enjoy doing it myself. I've heard of a T5 rebuild kit. Can I do it without a big selection of guages and micrometers?

    Can I upgrade it in a rebuild to a World Class T5?

    Should I ditch it and get a WCT5? I love the WCT5 in my other car, so tight, smoother, never grinds.

    Isn't it hilarious that the reunion is coming and neither car is now ready? Better here than there.
    -James Price- '84 SVO 9W leather, SVO #124

  • #2
    I am not sure I understand about 4th gear,are you saying it does not make noise in 4th?
    I think,I would probably check the condition of the universal joints first thing??


    • #3
      Please be patient w/ me here:

      right, 4th gear is fine. As I understand the t5 trannies (and I may be all wet)...4th gear is a direct transfer from crank to driveshaft. Is that wrong? Thus, I was thinking based on the symptoms that the reason it was quiet and no sounds or ker-clunking in 4th was because the tranny wasn't "gearing" it - changing the ratio between crank and driveshaft like it does in the other gears.

      I'm comfortable with it not being the universal because the ker-chunk isn't constant - speeding up and slowing with the speed of the wheels. The driveshaft spins the same speed relative to the wheels at whatever speed. I would prefer it to be the universal.

      *here's the key: I can make the Ker-clunk speed raise or lower. If I'm in 3rd at 30 mph it's fast ker-clunking, if I'm in 5th at 30 mph it's slow ker-clunking, if I'm in 4th at 30 mph - no ker-clunking at all. This to me points to the tranny.

      I FEEL LIKE A DORK describing ker-clunking. Like those callers to Tom and Ray explaining a problem with their Volvo (if you know what I mean )

      Last edited by 140cilx; 07-30-2003, 09:22 PM.
      -James Price- '84 SVO 9W leather, SVO #124


      • #4
        Don't worry about your methods of expression,mine could be worse,I would almost have to experience the problem to make any real suggestions.
        I feel sure tho that someone will chime in here with a direct hit on your problem,the guys here have been there done that for just about any problem with our cars that could arrise.


        • #5
          Ahh! Just looked at your screen name.
          You know you are in the right place.


          • #6
            Sounds to me like your front U joint is toast and it has taken out the rear output bushing in the trans and possibly the front yoke on the driveshaft. Been there done that! Crawl underneath and see if you can push the front yoke of the driveshaft from side to side where it plugs into the transmission. Look at your u joint bearing caps are they shiny on the ends from spinning underneath the retainers?

            If this is the case, you will need to replace the output bushing in the trans . Any good trans shop with the tool can do this without having to pull the trans. Cosrt should be $50-70. Also check your front yoke. If it's worn, the easy fix is to install the Ford Racing Aliunimum Driveshaft in place of the factory one. $159.95 from Summit. Works great! Slips right in after removing that funny angle iron thing that bolts onto the back of the trans. Also solves the ujoint problem!

            If your front yoke is still good, then all you have to change is the u joints and the output bushing.

            My parts went at 204,000miles. How many miles on your car?


            • #7

              Good info, Eyelawdoc. Just one thing to add here.

              4'th gear is direct drive. This means that all the load on the countershaft is alleviated except for parasitic load from bearing and gear oil drag. When the trans is in 4'th gear it is actually in NO gear and it's just locked in direct drive from the input shaft through the tailshaft. When in all other gears, the power transfers through the countershaft to the selected gear. The only common thing to the noise appears to be the countershaft. This would require a full teardown anyways so once we have torn it down that far the problem will most likely be self evident.


              • #8
                Correct me if I'm wrong.The 84 came with the 4.03 or 3.97 first gear(not sure which one) You can find these in any 4 cyl. Mustang up until 93. These things are a dime a dozen in the boneyards.You could put one of those in and if you feel like rebuilding your transmission you can take your time.

                84 1C
                80 AMC Eagle
                01 Jincheng 50( with 70 big bore)


                • #9
                  Thanks everyone. This is all very good info. Based on the symptoms, I believe it's something to do with the countershaft now that Pat explained it.
                  The car just flipped over 150k.
                  I drove it around the block this morning and wow is that thing noisy. It's a junky rattly sound, like no bearings and metal just banging around loosely with the hard Ker-clunks every few feet.
                  I'll check on lower mileage WC T5's. Put new seals in it, polish up the input shaft.
                  I'll go ahead and do a clutch replacement and replace my rear main seal - leaks impressively.
                  I'll inspect the driveshaft carefully.
                  Perhaps a blessing in disguise. I sure wouldn't want to be in KY and this thing go.
                  -James Price- '84 SVO 9W leather, SVO #124


                  • #10
                    A nice replacement trans if you need one is the t-5 out of a 87-88 Turbo Coupe. Lots of them in the wrecking yards and they're cheap!


                    • #11
                      SVOBROWN has got me set up with a replacement tranny from an '88 TC w/ 75k on it, he's been holding onto it for some time.

                      My thanks to you Kerry!
                      -James Price- '84 SVO 9W leather, SVO #124


                      • #12
                        Dang man, sorry to hear of your luck! Definatley re-build the other for a spare, you may nee dit in the 88


                        • #13
                          Hey Jay, good to see you on here. btw, sorry about the troubles you are having w/ '84.

                          Anyone know if a T5 can be rebuilt to a "World Class" T5?

                          just curious.
                          -James Price- '84 SVO 9W leather, SVO #124


                          • #14
                            IIRC the non WC has some inside differences.. Best bet is to contact D&d or Hanlon.

                            As for the 84, I am sure it is simple, just with my thumb, and all the bs right now I am not in the best mood for it to test me


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by 140cilx
                              Anyone know if a T5 can be rebuilt to a "World Class" T5?
                              The WC has upgraded countershaft bearings that won't fit in the old case. Gears and synchros are different as well. One thing you may want to do before slamming in the replacement tranny is replace the front bearing retainer with one that has the steel tube where the throwout bearing resides, if that has not already been done. Just don't forget the shims when you pull the old one off.