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R134a A/C conversion

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  • R134a A/C conversion

    Ok, I feel like I'm opening up a whole can of worms with this topic. I have been through numerous posts here and on FourEyes, etc. Watched YouTube videos up the ying-yang. Realize kits like Hose Wizards sold by LMR for SVO are no longer available, new hoses not available, etc., and the HR980 compressors are becoming unavailable, even though I may have a place in FL that rebuilds them. The 86 I purchase last year without working A/C is now on my next to do list. Compressor may be perfectly good and my Ford service manual shows how to check for leaks, but it need special adapters to hook it up to pressure hoses to charge and then a sniffer to check for leaks. Figure that may be good first step. Otherwise is to reinstall the whole system (with new dryer accumulator, o-rings and condenser?) flush system, evacuate, add x lbs of R134a and then check for leaks? Then of course are the posts that R134a will leak faster from the system, etc. Don't want to think about doing a conversion with newer compressor and serpentine belts, etc. Not expecting a silver bullet, but does someone here have a known approach to this issue/problem that can offer advice? I would think most SVO owners are or will be faced with this issue at some point. PS R-12 is no longer an option.

  • #2
    I've done several 134A conversions on stock systems. Just change the pressure switch before doing the evac. Add oil too.
    PETRO EXPRESS=CITGO=BOYCOTT / Illinois - Taxation w/o Representation!


    • #3
      past experience shows, if you don't change the o-rings at all the connection points, it will last about 2 years.
      to be fair, most of our cars are old enough these o-rings are ready to be replaced anyway.

      YES, you should 'plumb it up' and pull vac on it, to make sure it's not got any leaks, otherwise, you're just pouring money in, that's going to pour right back out.
      Eric C
      SVOCA Webmaster


      • #4
        Yep, forgot to mention that. Change all of the O rings. Dip them in the oil too, before the install. Pull vacuum. Replace pressure switch and charge.
        PETRO EXPRESS=CITGO=BOYCOTT / Illinois - Taxation w/o Representation!


        • #5
          Roger: buy(A/C) CLUTCH CYCLING SWITCH 134A and a set of 134a compatible HNBR O-rings.

          I found a replacement dryer accumulator Murry #60-6512 for $171 at OReillys! Even though its recommended to replace, if I don't, when I evacuate the system is that sufficient to pull all the moisture out?

          I should also take the step to flush the evaporator, condenser and hoses with solvent to clean out residual R12 mineral oil, right?

          I will need the R12 to 134a hose adapters, Ester oil. Leak detect die? If I buy a retrofit kit it will come with this. Anything else?

          My car takes 2lb 10oz (2.625 lbs) of R12, according to a chart I found, I should charge with 2.1lbs of R134a, basically a little less than 3 - 12oz cans.

          I did find a company in FL that sells reman HR-980 compressors for $450.
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