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  • Coil over conversion wheel ?

    So I'm just gonna throw this out there to see if I get some experienced answers. I Just put on MM coil over kit on Koni double adjustable dampers on stock A-arms & stock spindles. I knew the wheels/tires would rub. So I want to by new wheels anyway but it is turning out to be harder than I thought to find wheels that I don't have to run wheel spacers. So has anyone run this set up? And what wheels are you running? I really don't want to run spacer. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

  • #2
    I know this is an old post, but yeah, wheel/tire fitment is what's kept us away from coilovers on our 3rd Gen F Body autocross car. You have to have some serious room to fit coilovers on a strut-type front suspension. On the Fox body, you'll run into wheel well lip clearance issues getting something with enough offset to clear coilovers.
    Gene Beaird,
    86 2R SVO, G Stock,
    Pearland, Texas

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    • #3
      Thanks for the reply. Yea it's been a while but I've completed some research and have some answers, I just need to decide on what solution I want to move on. Since the post I've installed MM control arms with the coilover conversion. I purchased a few wheel spacers in order to run the stock wheels. I installed longer wheel studs as well. The 3/4 inch wheel spacers work the best but I don't like that I only get maybe 5 or 6 threads on the lug nuts. It's fine for "normal" driving but I wouldn't do any hard cornering just to be safe. It would probably be fine but I don't want to chance it. So with the 3/4" spacers that tells me I can install a front wheel with a positive offset of around +20. That would never work in the rear so I would have to do a staggered fitment. Let me tell you, finding a good looking wheel with the correct staggered dimensions is difficult. But I did find a nice wheel with 16x7 +18 and 16x7 +43 (pic). But those wheels are $2k. Sorry I just can't do it. I found a guy in Detroit that refinished wheels and also can widen or narrow your wheels. I think I might go this route. I can widen the rear 1" inward and mount a 245 tire and narrow the front 3/4" outward and still run the 225 tire. I haven't done anything yet but soon. I'm currently driving the car with spacers which I don't like doing but I keep an eye on it, everything is fine
      You may only view thumbnails in this gallery. This gallery has 1 photos.

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      • #4
        Whew, that is certainly an issue. I know I have very little clearance between the inner and strut body on simply modified struts, let alone coil overs, so I get your issue. Any 3-pc rim like that is going to cost some $$, always have. Have you checked out TSW to see if they have a combo that may work? I know they typically have a decent range of offsets to their rims. I think Motegi's may have some, but don't remember them having a wide a range of options.

        How does your car look with those spacers on the front? I would think that would push the rim pretty far outboard of the fender, no?
        Ted
        86 SVO Mustang
        17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

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        • #5
          I have found other wheels, I don't remember the brand of wheels but most of them are ugly. The only other set I found that I liked that have the correct staggered offset was like a 5 star aluminum wheel which wasn't bad looking but not exactly what I want. Growing up in the 80's/90's I always loved the gold Enkei or BBS on black. I was trying to find something like that (less $) but I just can't find them. So I would rather stick with stock wheels if I can't find the exact ones I want. I'll check your recommendations and see if they anything. I actually mounted +12 on the front (stock BBS grand marquis wheels) and they worked totally fine but the rear stuck out like 2 inches. I bought one wheel from a salvage yard many years ago to see if it would work (not so much). I have pictures somewhere I'll post them if I find them. Currently the stock wheels with 3/4 spacers looks totally normal. I have to adjust the coil over higher so it doesn't rub. 1/2 spacers will work also but then I have to adjust the coil up higher and then it just looks to high.
          You may only view thumbnails in this gallery. This gallery has 2 photos.

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          • #6
            I feel like I am missing something. I did the MM coil overs and LCAs with the svo wheels and have no issues at all...

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            • #7
              I am guessing something with the combination of the spring diameter and free length, where the spring is alongside the tire/rim vs above it??

              I am quite surprised how well the rims fit in the front fender with the 3/4" spacer, they certainly look 'normal'.

              You need to see if you can find some old school Riken mesh wheels (ha,ha). A college friend of mine put a set of those on his 88 Monte SS and they actually looked very nice on it.
              Ted
              86 SVO Mustang
              17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

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              • #8
                That is true about the spring and inside of the tire. I went as low as I felt comfortable as the spring does get closer to the tire as the spring perch comes down. I think I was around 26" to the fender lip.

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                • #9
                  Well I can't explain why mine needs spacers and yours doesn't, I wish I could but without seeing it or measuring stuff I'm outta luck. Although I'm happy your not going through the same issue I am. On the MM site it does say 1/2 spacers might be needed. I guess the key word is might. And 1/2' spacers didn't really work on mine so I had to go with 3/4 which again I'm not happy with. This is defiantly one of the SVO conundrums. I've learned to live with it just like all you have. I used to get pissed but now I just shrug my shoulders, crack a beer, laugh and say "what I expected" Just to keep on the topic of pain in the *** SVO stuff. I installed a Garrett GT28 last year and holy crap what a pain in the ***. I had to mount the Turbo to the stock manifold on the bench then install both. I bought a aftermarket oil drain line and that didn't work. Had to use the stock return line which is fine but that was a pain as well. Lets just say there isn't much room to work with down there.

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                  • #10
                    I have a GT30 and wish I had gone with a 28. A Turbo Coupe Drain line (87/88) is what I was told to use, worked fine. Putting on the turbo and manifold as a unit is the way to do it.
                    Bruce

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                    • #11
                      Okay so I was wrong. The pics above showing the wheels is actually 1/4 spacers not 3/4. I decided to grease up my bearings the other day and took the wheels off and 1/4 spacers appeared. I've been messing with spacers for so long I didn't remember what was on it. But I think what I did is I didn't like the 3/4 spacers because the wheels were only held on by a couple threads from the wheel lugs. So I put the 1/4 spacers on and just adjusted the height until my tires didn't rub and that's what I got on the picture above. The picture down below here is 3/4 spacers. I put them on real quick to snap a picture to post on the site. As you can see it does push out a little more with 3/4 spacers but still not to bad.
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                      • #12
                        You would certainly need to get extended studs put in to use those 3/4" spacers, I agree. It is amazing how much the stock wheels are tucked in that they are barely pushed out with the 3/4" in there.

                        I don't have a picture of my TSW's like your view, but here is a track pic that does show how the 17x8" with 35mm offset fit. The tires are 235/45R17 A052's for reference as well. I used to run the '06 Cobra wheels, which have a 30mm offset and they say 5mm outboard from these. They did tickle the front fenders under extreme compression, but these don't show any evidence of touching the fenders in the 11 years I have been running them. YMMV.

                        TSW_08.jpg
                        Ted
                        86 SVO Mustang
                        17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

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                        • #13
                          There IS a bit of 'adjustment' you can make due to fit of the spindle to strut bolts, and twisting things so the upper bolt is against the outer edge of the spindle and inner edge of the strut hole, while the lower bolt is the opposite can eat up ~1/4-3/8" of space between the tire and strut. With coil overs, the spring takes up more space, so you could quite easily end up with a tire on a coil with that configuration. You could easily adjust the camber so it is in spec in that configuration.

                          On our 86, I had the spindle/strut hole relationship set as above and the strut top pushed as much toward the center of the car as I could in order to gain as much negative camber as adjustable within factory limits when we autocross the car in FS/GS. The car is camber-challenged, and about all I could get was about -1/2 deg. Even then, we still burned up the outer tread in ~5000 miles of mostly autocross driving on our car.
                          Gene Beaird,
                          86 2R SVO, G Stock,
                          Pearland, Texas

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                          • #14
                            Yes so I thought about that. I actually have (somewhere) a set of camber bolts. I bought chamber bolts prior to when I got my caster/chamber plates. So I said "lets see if these chamber bolts work by adjusting the chamber out a few degrees then I can make up for it with the caster/chamber plates. But I can't find my chamber bolts, I think they're in a storage bin at my Dad's house. Chamber bolts aren't that expensive but I did have to cut the length down as they hit the back of the caliper. And i don't want to buy another set and cut them down too because I already have a pair. I'll be at my Dad's in a few months and dig through all my crap to find them. Then I will try using them to see if they help a little.

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                            • #15
                              Just thought I’d share my method to the madness. As we all know SVO wheels are 16x7 5.75 backspacing / +44 offset. I’ve been using several websites for references but one site in particular “will they fit” .com shows a good comparison in relation to your current wheel. Since the 3/4 spacer clears my strut I'm using that as my "target" distance for calculating backspacing. So subtract 3/4 from 5.75 I should be able to mount a 5" backspace wheel. However, I plan on using at least 1" less than the current backspacing to account for the tire and whatever else I run into. So target backspacing of 4.75" is what I'm shooting for. Now I have been using the reference site to build a wheel that will fit and then searching the wheels with that size and then seeing if they have the same wheel in a 16x8 +44, just have to go back and forth between the two sites. Very tedious.... This is how I came up with the staggered wheels I posted earlier. The front will have a backspacing of 4.26" and will push outward 1" and the rear wheel 16x8 +44 so I can run a 245 tire in the rear.
                              https://www.willtheyfit.com/
                              Last edited by strangesvo; 12-31-2022, 05:36 PM.

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