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Oil leaks!

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  • Oil leaks!

    So, after resealing EVERYTHING that holds fluid, oil pan, rear main seal, oil cooler, oil press sender, valve cover using the reusable ranger steel/rubber gasket, RESEALED the entire T5 with input and out shaft seals and anaerobic on all flanges, I STILL had a small drip. After jacking the car back up for the tenth time, I realized that the dipstick tube was the culprit. I'm not sure if this repair I preformed has ever been attempted the way I did it, so I'm posting to maybe help a few of you in the future.

    Almost everyone I've spoken with seemed to doing it the same way, a small o-ring or two in some cases, then jam the tube back in the block and hope for the best. The problem is, because there is such a small shoulder on the tube, often times the o-ring just gets pushed over the top of the shoulder when you insert the tube into the block.

    My solution? Install a properly fitted washer before the o-ring, then the o-ring, then apply a dab of copper RTV on the tube and tap it back in place. The kicker is, make absolutely sure that the small 8mm head bolt that holds the tube to the manifold bracket is legit. Mine was stripped, allowing the tube to vibrate loose in the block. I drilled a hole in the bracket and then installed a stud, then secured it with a nut. It ain't goin nowhere.

    I also tapped the V/C where the factory rear breather is installed, added a threaded insert to the breather, then screwed it into the V/C to stop that leak. Likewise, I then ran the line to a cheapo Amazon catch can.

    I then added a vacuum cap I modified to the dipstick top itself to help seal against any blowback. I just cut it to fit the top of the cap and superglued it in place.

    While I was at it, I installed a simple one way valve on the actual PCV system. Got it at my local parts house in the help section. It's actually a brake booster valve. I hooked it up after the actual PCV valve, and it works amazingly well. Under boost, no more pressurizing the crankcase. On cruise and decel, it pulls the vapor. I removed everything going to the turbo inlet.

    I drove the car hard for about 25/30 miles this evening. Crawled under the car and it's dry as a bone! Cardboard underneath overnight will be the definitive result.

    Hope this helps some of you.....

    Pictures attached......

    *****UPDATE*****

    Cardboard was dry this morning, drove the car to work, parked it with cardboard under it again... No drips or leakage anywhere!
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Orion; 12-18-2025, 09:00 PM.

  • #2
    Nice job. I tapped my block and screwed in a compression fitting. Then made a new dipstick out of tubing. But then I had the motor apart so it was easier,
    Bruce

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    • #3
      Excellent work, thanx for sharing the info and pics!
      Ted
      86 SVO Mustang
      17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

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      • #4
        I'm in the 'jamb the tube down and hope for the best' club, but it has worked for us through several years of stock-class autocrossing. Had more leaks from the PS system than anything else.

        Nice work, and writeup, though. Thanks.
        Gene Beaird,
        86 2R SVO, G Stock,
        Pearland, Texas

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