About to start body restoration on 86

[gbeaird]

Thank you. Is the TPS adjustment procedure in the FSM? Little about the IAC is there, other than just R&R'ing it. I'll unplug it and see what happens.

[GAboySVO]

Follow this procedure:

https://www.svoca.com/forum/forum/faq-anouncements/frequently-asked-questions-and-rules/69-how-do-i-set-tps-and-base-idle

[gbeaird]

Thanks. I forgot to look in the FAQ section. I did peruse the 'Emissions and Diagnostics' manual, and have yet to find anything regarding setting the TPS, or anything, pretty much, dealing with the IAC/Air Bypass, or whatever they want to call it.

It's weird, as it seems the Emissions and Diagnostics manual appears to have been written by someone completely outside of the Ford service manual-writing group. It's so much different than any of the other Ford manuals I have for this car.

[scenario]

Gene

I installed a stinger TPS 85-89 unit on my 86 1D. I also installed a new IAC Walker #2152003 (215-2003) from Rock Auto.

I honestly dont know which of the two solved my problem but I will say the car now starts up cold and idles down after 15-30 seconds and once warm purrrs like a little kitten. Stinger has the procedure on their website I think.

I changed the small plug pigtail also

[gbeaird]

Thanks for the information. It actually runs and starts fine after warming up, as long as the IC is connected. :-). It's the cold start that need help with a little throttle application. That's why I thought it was a failed IAC.

I have both a TPS (not sure from who) and Walker IAC in inventory, just don't want to start throwing parts on it, but can, if necessary.

BTW, is the IAC just a 'bolt on and go' kind of thing? Not seeing any sort of tuning or adjustments noted in the FSM, just 'remove old one, install gasket and new one and plug it in' sort of thing.

[gbeaird]

Because we're running a 'glass rear hatch, I had configured a prop rod that consisted of a 1" square length of CF tubing with a piece on the bottom end from a car show prop rod to set around the striker. While that works, it still looked like it belonged on a car sitting on cinder blocks in the front yard with a tarp over half of it.

I discovered that they made quick-release gas lift ends and thought that could be my solution. I'd get a couple of lifts and screw those to the ends and use them for holding the hatch open when we're back there or for shows and stuff. The problem was, there is a slight difference in the body left to right on our car. There's not enough clearance between the body and the upper ball on the right side of the car to clip the end on, no matter how I tried bending the mounting bracket.

Sooo, I decided to use my die grinder to basically cut the ends off the QD mounts so I could simply press the mount over the ball. When it came time to close the hatch, I'd just pull the lifts, lay them in the back and be on my way. After much time back-and-forth between the car and the workbench, I finally had a pair of ends that could be pushed into place.

I set the lifts in place, and as I had my co-driver slowly let the pressure off holding the hatch up, to make the lifts support the hatch more I notices that the ball studs on the hatch were slowly pulling out of the hatch! :-(

So, after costing thousands of lives and millions (almost) of dollars, this project is an abject failure. Cinder block prop rod it is!! Hopefully, McMaster Carr take the un-marred parts back. We'll see.

So, Happy Thanksgiving, everyone! I hope your day in the shop/garage was more productive and successful than ours.