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  • #31
    Sounds like you may have clocked the lever arm in the wrong position and basically pulled it to the full 'on' position. Clocking it back to the 2 o'clock position would be returning it to the 'home' position and should have retracted the piston/pad. The lever arm has alignment notches that allow it to be clocked in 3 positions, each 120 deg apart. You would need to clock the arm to the 2 o'clock position, remove the arm and reinstall it in the 6 o'clock position. This would then give you the proper location for the arm to connect to the cable and rotate to clamp the rotor.

    Caliper - Rear_LH_Parking Brake Lever Arm.jpg
    Ted
    86 SVO Mustang
    17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

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    • #32
      Awesome, thanks for that info! I wasn't thinking when I installed them I guess.

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      • #33
        No problem, hope that is all the issue is. Sometimes it is hard to visualized a mirror image and you end up copying the other side, which ends up turning things around. Luckily I took pictures of my calipers when I did the replacement/swap and I still had to stare at it for a short while to get it set up correctly.
        Ted
        86 SVO Mustang
        17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

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        • #34
          Did anyone have the same trouble getting the parking brake cable off of the bracket nearest to the caliper? Right behind where the shock is there's a bracket that you have to take the cotter pin out of, then widen the jaw and slide the cable off. I cannot for the love of me get the cable free.

          Luckily my brakes work, but the pistons really need adjusting before the e-brake even works lol. I was moving the levers and the piston wasnt holding the wheels from spinning at all.

          This should be the last thing I need to do before the car is ready. It drives fine.. although the braking is weak.

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          • #35
            Little update: I am bringing the car to a Mustang specialty shop to have the parking brake cables installed. Shouldnt be too hard for them. Going to have them adjust the calipers while they're at it. Hopefully get that straightened out.

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            • #36
              Sometimes you simply need to step back from some projects when they get too frustrating, perfectly understandable. Good luck and let us know how the shop works out for you.
              Ted
              86 SVO Mustang
              17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

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              • #37
                Is it possible to adjust the caliper with the cube tool while the brake line is attached? I was going to quickly pull the caliper and adjust it. Just go around to getting a tool.

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                • #38
                  Yes, there is no need to disconnect the brake line for adjustment. The 'normal' procedure is to have the caliper and line connected, place the caliper/pads into position, pull the caliper outboard to seat the inside pad against the piston and rotor, then measure the gap between the outer pad plate and caliper. Gap should be between 1/32 and 3/32". If it is outside that range then you pull the caliper off and either rotate the piston clockwise to increase the gap or counterclockwise to decrease the gap, reposition the caliper and measure again. The shop manual states that 1/4 turn should move the gap approximately 1/16" (i.e.- 2/32").
                  Ted
                  86 SVO Mustang
                  17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

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                  • #39
                    Did the new cables help?

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                    • #40
                      I try both tools nether would fit my slot on the rotors. I used a big pair of vicescrip to turn my rotors.

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                      • #41
                        I assume you mean piston, and not rotor. to turn the piston, you need the right tool, which is not that square block.
                        it's something similar to this.
                        https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FW3U26G
                        Eric C
                        SVOCA Webmaster

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