Strut Upper Mount attaching nut?

[vrinner]

I just got my rebuild, custom valved, shortened, front Koni struts back from Tri-Point/ProParts and have an installation question.

The Ford Shop manual says "Tighten the new 16mm strut to upper mount attaching nut inside the engine compartment to 75-125 N-m (55-92 lb-ft). A screwdriver in the slot will hold the rod stationary while the nut is being tightened.

For fear of screwing up my new struts...I dont get it. Insert screwdriver into *what* slot? When you try and tighten the nut, the shaft just turns.

Thanks!

[Pat_in_L.A.]

That's for the standard strut on all other cars except the SVO. Even the supplement didn't cover that for the Konis. When you reassemble the front end, just start the nut by hand and make sure any spacer bushings from strut to monoball on the camber plate are seated properly. Once you have the car back on the ground you should be able to tighten the nut without worrying about that screwdriver nonsense. I am assuming that you will use the double nuts rather than a nylon lock nut.

[vrinner]

Originally posted by Pat_in_L.A.
That's for the standard strut on all other cars except the SVO. Even the supplement didn't cover that for the Konis. When you reassemble the front end, just start the nut by hand and make sure any spacer bushings from strut to monoball on the camber plate are seated properly. Once you have the car back on the ground you should be able to tighten the nut without worrying about that screwdriver nonsense. I am assuming that you will use the double nuts rather than a nylon lock nut.

Double nuts ranther than a nylon lock nut? This is the nut on the top of the shock that attaches the shock to the caster/camber plate. It's just a single nut. Or are you talking about the three nuts that attach the cc plate to the body?

Thanks!

[Pat_in_L.A.]

I meant for the strut, not the camber plate. I've seen some Koni struts for other cars that came with a nylock nut, so the shaft would want to rotate when installing the nut. If there's room (enough thread) left for putting a second "jam nut" over whatever hardware you are using, that's just a little added insurance policy. That's the way the hardware came on the old Koni Trans-am double adjustables.

[vrinner]

The nut is just a single nut (non-nylon) on top of the shock. There is not enough room to put another one on.

[AT6svo]

Yeah, the screwdriver thing/trick is definetly a non-koni application.

Note the wide range on torque spec, 55-92 ft-lbs. This leads me, and my over analyzing brain, to conclude that the spec itself is not that critical.

One has to think of the physics invloved at this (stock spring config, non coil-overs) mounting location and what that nut is -really- doing. The camber-caster/oinon head locates the strut laterally. The top nut's function is vertical in nature, keeping the strut from pulling out of the cc plate in an unloading condition, the cc plate limits the amount of upward travel through the plate, so the cc plate is handling the upward forces generated during compression. It is not in a major support or loading situation, hence, as long as its torqued in the ballpark, its fine.

I have always used an impact gun for removal (ex at the jy, which is different adventure) AND for installation. Blast it on with a impact w correct size deep socket, 18mm iirc (using common sense and past exp knowing how well your impact performs with what regulated pressure) then double check with a torque wrench to ensure it exceeds the 55 ft-lb minimum.

Thats how I've handled the issue. Anyone with more input on the physics of the strut mounting nut, please feel free to join in.

I did a quick search over at cornercarvers.com and couldn't find anything on this specific topic either.

hth,

[Pat_in_L.A.]

Let me open a second beer before I ponder the physics of a strut nut...

POP... glug glug glug

OK, that camber plate is aftermarket and may or may not have come with attaching hardware (nuts). If the hardware that came with it is correct, follow the directions that came with the camber plate. The koni has gas pressure to help extend it while the nut is being tightened, so the screwdriver isn't needed unless you're using a lock nut. Another stoopid thing to ponder is, how could one use a socket and torque wrench to get the proper torque if you had to hold a screwdriver on the end of the shaft? I don't know if half-height nuts are out there for that thread pitch, but if I were putting a car on the track I'd make some if I couldn't find some so that I could double nut the thing. I've seen what happens when these things back off.

Oh heck, just use the impact! But set it on low!.

[gbeaird]

You wouldn't use a socket, you would use a crow's foot and do the conversion to get the torque right. That way you could use the screwdriver and still get the torque setting, though it would be difficult to hold the screwdriver while tightening that tight.

Gene Beaird
86 2R SVO
Pearland, Texas

[ediii]

I also use the impact gun on low. If you don't have one, hold the piston with a pair of vice grips and tighten the nut. The piston is hardened but use rubber or nylon to protect it from the vice grip teeth anyway.
Good luck,

ED