Replacement Brake Calipers, Pads, Rotors

[SVO4Turbo]

Hi All-

Been 3 years since I drove my SVO, and many more that than since I posted here, but hoping the forum is as helpful as it used to be. After not driving for a while, and putting some miles on the old gal over the weekend, its clearly in need of some TLC. First thing it needed was a new rag joint, so I got that done. After going out for a drive or two, my calipers (drivers side front specifically) are sticking something terrible, almost not unlocking at all a couple times. Burning brake pads is not a smell I love, and fighting my brakes really kills the performance aspect of acceleration, so I think i'm going to just install new. Which leads to the question... Who makes loaded calipers for a nice plug and play swap? I'd just assume put new rotors on it while i'm at it. Don't need anything fancy...I only drive it every year or two anyway. Links / specific vendors appreciated!

Also, noticed during slow speed tight turns in parking lots, was getting the occasional clunk out of the rear end and it seemed to have more rear end noise in general than I remember. I don't recall this happening 2 or 3 years ago when I last drove it. I'll go ahead an assume it's still using the quality diff fluid installed in 1986, so I'll be putting in some new fluid / modifier. Anyone else experience this type of thing after a long sleep?

Thanks in advance for your replies.

Good to be back!

[High Roller]

rockauto.com has a good variety of calipers and good pricing. Just be sure to buy calipers with metal pistons.

[svono50]

Sounds like the phenolic (plastic) pistons have swollen and are sticking, pretty common, especially if they sit for a while. Calipers are pretty available, depends on whether you want to buy online or get local. Most parts chain stores have them available and I don't really feel any one is really 'better' than another. I have a feeling there is only 1 or 2 outfits that do all the rebuilds anyways. My calipers are from Advance Auto parts and the Rotors are from Carquest and they work just fine, even with regular track day and auto-x events. I recommend Advance Auto, Autozone, Carquest and O'Reilly brands, FWIW. Napa is a source as well, you may pay a bit more, but most of the time their guys are a bit more knowledgeable than the other places, YMMV. Since you don't drive the car that often, see if you can source a set of front calipers with SS pistons in them. The SS can handle sitting around for a while and are not prone to seizing up as readily as the phenolic pistons. The SS units only cost a few bucks more and are worth it to avoid future caliper issues due to seizing.

As for rotors, just avoid the cheapest option, as you get what you pay for. A good mid-line rotor will work just fine.

Rear end noise could be from the fluid getting old and having set for a long time. Clutches could be a bit 'sticky' and making some noise. Put in a new fill w/modifier and give it some time to work into the clutches. As long as it isn't 'popping', you should be fine.

Good luck and enjoy the ride!

[FinnSVO]

Or you can also buy steel pistons + new seals separately and fix calipers easily by yourself if they are otherwise good (no scratches on bores etc). Easy job and cheap solution, took me no more than hour each side to do.

Rockauto has right now closeout sale for Wagner pistons, 3,88$ each + 2-3$ for seals

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1985,mustang,2.3l+140cid+l4+turbocharged,1133806,brake+&+wheel+hub,caliper+piston,1724

[svono50]

To add onto Lauri's note, you could pick up more readily available phenolic calipers and the SS pistons and upgrade the new units depending on the condition of your existing calipers...just another option to consider depending on how much work you want to put into this project.

[SVO4Turbo]

Thanks for all the replies.

Thanks everyone for your replies. I usually have very limited time to work on the car, and even less time to learn new stuff (like rebuilding calipers), so I think I'll just go the replacement option. Rotors, calipers, pads, bleed and go! I've never used RockAuto before but I'll give it a shot based on a couple of recommendations here.

As for the rear end noise, I'm a little concerned by this comment... " As long as it isn't 'popping', you should be fine." I'd describe as more of a clunk when making sharp turns...I assumed something in there was sticking. But of everything on the car, I feel as though I know the least about rear end gears and LSD's, so I'm not great at troubleshooting such issues. Would a visual inspection with the cover off reveal any issues or does one have to remove parts?

Thanks

[svono50]

RockAuto is a good 'go-to' place and being based out of Wisconsin is a plus for folks like me (i.e.- close to RA) who get stuff next day. Do a web search for "RockAuto discount code" and pluck one of the many 5% off codes folks put out there on various forums.

What I meant by 'popping' would be clutches in the LSD that would be severely sticking and breaking loose or possibly a messed up spider gear. Your 'clunking' sound is likely some mild sticking of the clutch discs/plates in the LSD and not completely abnormal. The friction modifier you add to the gear lube helps prevent the 'stiction' of the clutches in the LSD and as your fluid ages the modifier breaks down and you start to 'clunk'. I think a fresh fill should take care of the issue.

Trying to visually inspect things in the diff without removal is limited to any gross wear/damage to the spider gears and ring & pinion. The clunk could also be just end play between the axles and pin as the axle move into the pin or away from the pin onto the c-clip. Heck, I had a former 7.5" rear end where I broke 6 pinion and 9 ring teeth and it still worked...with some clunking. Funny thing was, I ignored the sound long enough to have completely pulverized all the chunks that came off those gears into a nice fine powder, which made my diff fluid a real pretty light brown with golden fleck in it...

[High Roller]

Check the lounge for rockauto's discount code.