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Soft Pedal = Bad Brakes?

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  • Soft Pedal = Bad Brakes?

    Prior to a coolant line exploding I had my SVO running. During a brief drive around the neighborhood I noticed two things, I need to set the base timing and the brakes are bad.

    The pedal, once depressed resists well and does not go to the floor however the brakes feel very weak. There is also a lot of pedal travel before anything happens. The pads look good but the rotors need to be turned and are a little rusty.

    Also, do any of our suppliers offer a deal on stainless steel caliper sleaves?
    Last edited by leadphinger; 03-11-2005, 12:32 PM.
    "Some people are like Slinkies. . . Not really good for anything, but
    they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight
    of stairs."

  • #2
    SVPU

    Call Paul at SVPU. He has the stainless piston pucks to replace the junky phenolic factory ones. I believe the kit also comes with seals. Last I talked to him, he was out of stock, but expected some to be in soon. A1 Cardone also sells remanufactured ones at Parts America or Kragens with the SS pistons. Expect to pay about $90 each for the entire reman caliper. A huge upcharge over the phenolic ones at under $20 each, but worth it. May want to bleed all the brake fluid out and fill with new good stuff. See some old threads on what to use (DOT 3 or DOT 5). These is a lot out there on the silcon DOT 5 stuff and the pros/cons.
    Last edited by Gyrhead; 03-11-2005, 01:09 PM.
    86' 2R Original Owner "Project Originale"; 86' 2R "Project Bolo" 84' 9W "Project Bondo"; 86 2R "Project Evil" (GONE!); 90' 5.0 LX Vert; 98 Dodge Neon ACR Track Car; 05 SRT-4 ACR! ---"Real tomato ketchup Eddie?"

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    • #3
      Leadfinger, I don't believe that your problem is the phenolic pistons.

      The symptoms you describe are classic for a SVO master cylinder that is on it's last legs. Replace the master, bleed the brakes using Castrol GTLM fluid and your brakes will be working great again.

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      • #4
        if this car has sat for a while -- it needs to have the brake fluid replaced...

        Old brake fluid is more likely to have condensation in it.

        if after replacing the fluid (and bleeding the system) you still have spongy brakes.. you should look at the master cylnder.

        EDIT -- if you push on the brake pedal, and as you hold it, it slowly seeps down, then there is a good chance you do have a bad master cylnder.
        Eric C
        SVOCA Webmaster

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        • #5
          Sweet! The help I have gotten on from this board is priceless.

          The pedal stays up. With continuous pressure for 2 minutes it doesn't go any farther down. I'll replace fluid first and keep you posted on the results.
          "Some people are like Slinkies. . . Not really good for anything, but
          they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight
          of stairs."

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          • #6
            good info here....can anyone answer as to which DOT # of fluid to use?? THanks

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            • #7
              Originally posted by NavySVO
              good info here....can anyone answer as to which DOT # of fluid to use?? THanks
              Use DOT 3 or DOT 4.

              Pass on DOT 5 synthetic brake fluid. It has a negative temperature/ compressability ratio (meaning that the hotter the fluid gets, the softer the pedal will feel. It may not boil under heavy use but the pedal will feel as though you boiled the brake fluid).

              There are non-synthetic DOT 5.1 fluids that should work fine as well.

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              • #8
                thanks Pat. I just got the car, and I am yes, a newb. Still learning....

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