Brake Booster Removal

[Wizard191]

What's the best way on getting the brake booster out?

Thanks!

[SVOBart]

Take the master cylinder loose, remove the clip holding the brake pedal into the actuator rod, and then remove the 4 nuts holding the booster in place. That's about the standard procedure for any vehicle with vaccum boosted brakes.

[svoman2300]

I don't know how big of a guy you are but I would suggest taking the driver's seat out and putting a moving quilt or an old comforter to cover the studs. I think I made up a few new cuss words when I changed my booster but I'm 6"3" 250 with a bad shoulder so it was fun.

[SVOeric]

and schedule a chiropracter appointment!! --

A air-powered ratchet is a very nice tool to have when working under the dash...

[Wizard191]

Thanks for the pics mike...that helps a lot. I made the mistake of pulling the carpet before doing all this work under the dash...oops.

[svoson]

Master cylinder - all the way off?

Hey all,

I'm getting ready to do this myself this weekend. I'm not super-experienced, but I'm patient, so... I've also already taken the seat off as per the advice.

When I take the master cylinder off, should I take it all the way off? Should I get plugs at Autozone / NAPA to keep the fluid in it? I was thinking as I disconnected the lines, I could put one of those red nipples on it (like what came with my calipers) to lessen the possibility that I will have to do something radical like bench-bleed it. I'd like to plan ahead and lessen the headaches involved with the master cylinder...

The pics and tips on this post have already helped alot!

Thanks!

Bobby

[SVOeric]

you won't have to bench bleed it, as the fluid is already in the internals of the master cyln. the covers are nice to keep dirt out, but not completly necessary.

I'm afraid you will have to completly remove the master cylnder. The brake lines aren't going to have enough play in them to get hte booster out. You might be able to do it, but with my luck, I'd break one of the lines, and be replacing that too...

You will have to bleed the system once you get everything back together, but it shouldn't be too bad...

[svoson]

Thanks!

Eric,

Thanks! I think if I just have to bleed the lines, I won't be too intimidated.

Bobby

[svoson]

Another two questions

(Keeping in mind that I'm not super-experienced) would people recommend that I remove what fluid I can from the master cylinder before removal? I was looking for brake booster brand recommendations and ran across a set of instructions for changing the brake booster which advised removing fluid from the master cylinder with a turkey baster or similar... Should I be thinking of taking the fluid out?

Second, brand recommendations - I have found prices (in ascending order) for brake boosters from Cardone, ARI and NAPA. I like to buy my parts from NAPA as I get good service from them, but their price is more than twenty dollars higher than the next closest ($75 for the ARI compared to $97 for the NAPA). Does anyone have any experience with Cardone or ARI?

Thanks!

Bobby

[SVOBart]

It is probably not a bad idea to remove the fluid just to keep from making a mess in the event something happens to the master cylinder, like getting dropped, that would cause the cover to pop off.

The NAPA unit is a quality piece, but it is cast iron and not aluminium like the stock unit. I kept my aluminium master cylinder with the plans of having it rebuilt at some point. I put the cast iron one on the car just to get the brakes solid again.

[NavySVO]

Originally posted by SVOBart

The NAPA unit is a quality piece, but it is cast iron and not aluminium like the stock unit. I kept my aluminium master cylinder with the plans of having it rebuilt at some point. I put the cast iron one on the car just to get the brakes solid again.

Bart, I think he meant the booster, not the M/C.
Mike Flemming had a post not too long ago from an online parts place that included a new M/C with the puchase of a booster...or visa-versa.
In addition, if it were me, I would buy a couple large bottles of brake fluid that has a tolerance to heat like Castrol GT/LMA. It is always a good idea to purge the entire system of that old brake fluid if you are going to open the entire system anyway. Brake fluid breaks down after time (and heat exposure), and who knows the last time it was done.......unless you yourself have done it in the last few years. Make sure you bleed the brakes starting at the furthest point from the M/C, and work your way towards it.
I also would not open the M/C up to remove fluid until it is ready to lift out of the engine compartment, with your hands clean, and the outside of the M/C has been wiped down good. Just a little particulate matter (dirt, grit, rust) that lands in there and STAYS in the reservior has the possiblity of making it's way into the piston cylinder and scoring it. You should open it up and pour the old stuff out, and rinse the reservior a little with the clean fluid to get any schmegma out that may be laying in there. If you DO wipe it out with a rag, make sure it is clean and a lint-free type.
Good luck!

[NavySVO]

Originally posted by NavySVO
Mike Flemming had a post not too long ago from an online parts place that included a new M/C with the puchase of a booster...or visa-versa.

I found it.....scroll down, you'll see it.

http://www.svoca.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8023&highlight=booster

And it's a Cardone booster.

[svoson]

Thanks for the tips!

Kurt,

I replaced all the calipers last Fall, and we certainly ran all the fluid and then some through the whole system. I only drove the car about twice before the booster failed... I suppose the new brake calipers did their job a bit too well.

I didn't drain the fluid from the master cylinder in a method quite as good as the one you proposed. I think I kept it clean, and decided to bench bleed it while I had it out anyway, so I believe it's good also.

I drove it this morning to wash it for the first time since I put it away last Winter (don't worry I put it away clean, it just had dust on it).

I ended up using the booster from Cardone. When I opened the box I noticed the pamphlet was from ARI! The two choices I had from Autozone were ARI and Cardone... hmmmm.... wonder what the deal is there? Not really a choice after all!

Thanks all for the suggestions! Car brakes well and is back on the road!

Bobby

[NavySVO]

Re: Thanks for the tips!

Originally posted by svoson
I didn't drain the fluid from the master cylinder in a method quite as good as the one you proposed. I think I kept it clean, and decided to bench bleed it while I had it out anyway, so I believe it's good also.

I am a little too anal sometimes.....but when you work on stuff that costs as much as what I work on, well, anal is the only way to be to get it right the first time.