Cross-member bolt and removing Red Loctite

[SVOJames]

We had to cut one of the cross-member bolts. Is there anything special (hardness, steel, etc) I need to look for when I get a replacement?

It appears Red Loctite was used to secure the driveshaft flange. I see I can remove it with heat and hand tools. My question is will the Loctite fail permanently after it I get it hot enough, or do I need to loosen the bolt while the bolt is still hot enough?

As always, thanks in advance.

James

[Erics SVO]

I'm pretty sure the Loctite will burn off. It will stink pretty good. Kinda like plastic burning. I'd prolly get the bolt most of the way out just to be sure you're out.

[SVOJames]

Finally got enough leverage to get the driveshaft bolts loose.

Any idea what size tap/die I need?

James

[SVOJames]

Thanks, Mike.

Rebuilt gearbox is in place. Two more questions I can't find the answer too:

1: On the gearbox to bellhousing bolts, how tight should they be?

2: What is the fluid capacity in a "dry" gearbox. Manuals & searching here show around 2.5 quarts, but I saw one post showing 3.2 quarts on a dry 87 Tbird box. I ask because I only have 3 quarts available, and it's easily a good 1.5 hour round trip to a good parts store.

Texas summers in a shop with no AC slows down the wrenching, but I'll give better than even odds it will be done Wednesday. I'm really looking forward to snapping off some quick 1-2 shifts.

James

[NavySVO]

Thanks, Mike.

2: What is the fluid capacity in a "dry" gearbox. Manuals & searching here show around 2.5 quarts, but I saw one post showing 3.2 quarts on a dry 87 Tbird box. I ask because I only have 3 quarts available, and it's easily a good 1.5 hour round trip to a good parts store.

James, the answer is on Hanlon's website. Question #2 in the FAQs:
Q: How much oil do I have to put into my transmission, and do I ever have to change it?
A: A T5 takes about 2.75Qts and a Tremec 3550/TKO takes 3Qts. We recommend that you change the oil in the transmission once a year. Check your service manual for correct fluid type

And I am also sure that you know to use ATF and not Gear oil.

[SVOJames]

Well, good thing I'm not a bookie.

I used a wee bit less than 3 quarts of AMSoil Synthetic ATF. Thanks to Mike for his spot-on description.

We buttoned everything up around 7 PM, the car failed to start. Someone left a door open for a day or so, and battery voltage was 6.3. Hooked up the good charger with a 60 AMP boost, the car started and died. Long story short, one end of the hose from the VAM to the turbo had slipped partially off the VAM. It starts and runs now, but I was too tired to drive it.

Of interesting note: After the start & die stuff a few times, I noticed I could not select 1st or 2nd, all other gears were selectable. After trying 10 or so times, 1st and 2nd became selectable. My neighbor suggested the synchronizers just needed to be lined up, I'd welcome other feedback.

James

[svono50]

It is often difficult to select some gears when the shafts are not rotating.

Very true and especially when you are dealing with a freshly rebuit unit. After a few days using the new box your gear selection should smooth out a bit.

[SVOJames]

Thanks for the feedback. I got to put a few (50?) miles on it today, only had problems selecting 1st once. It still feels a little "notchy", but I'll give it a few days.

I think I'll also follow the advice in the Hanlon FAQ, and put about 500 miles on it before driving the car hard.

James

[SVOJames]

Mike,

I went with the stock ratio's, so I didn't get the spiffy GeForce (or whichever) input shaft, and I didn't do the hardening of the existing input shaft gears (I forget what it was called).

I would think someone building a real race car (I'm curious why you made the distinction between race cars and drag cars, but that a discussion fit for the Reunion) would spend more on the rebuild. The FAQ does specify street cars on the 500 mile break-in.

As always, I appreciate your input. If I do run the car hard before the 500 miles is up (I'm not giving odds either way on that), and the gearbox breaks, I'll console myself with the thought "The Prof said it was ok", and count on you to pony up for the repair bill.

James

[Pat_in_L.A.]

You're not making enough power to break a T5. It takes a significant increase over the torque rating to break them.

Where there's a will, there's a way.


29 days, 2 hrs, 12 minutes.