rear end S-clip

[dpmeeks]

Ive been doing some searching about the 7.5 rear ends. Does or should my rear end in my 84 have a S-clip ?

When i took the diff cover off today it didnt have a S-clip, it has the C-clips that hold the axles in place but no S-clip.

Here is a pic of one...

[Cwhatfield40]

Uh oh. What does your axle tag say? If it has a "L" (3L45)in it then it should be a traction-lok rear end. It most certainly should have an "S" clip in it. If it has been removed then you can get a new clutch pack service kit and some even come with a new S clip, retaining bolt, and friction modifier.
I did notice that none of the 7.5" kits show the S clip...hmmm. But I distinctly remember fussing with the S clip in my 1985 Cougar XR7 7.5" axle.
DO you leave dual scratch marks on the pavement? That would be a sure indicator of a functioning trac-lok.

[Kendal Coker]

The 84 svo had this type of differential. It is listed in the Ford Motorsport book part # M4204-B75. According to ford motorsport the same used in production 84 Mustang , Capri, Thunderbird ranger with 7.5" rear axle.

[Cwhatfield40]

Ack! Well, I guess that would explain why I was having a hard time finding a 7.5" service kit with an S clip. Sorry Phil, but I STILL think you need to do a burn out!

[dpmeeks]

yep... the inside of my diff looks like the pic that kendal posted..

[indysvo]

Hey Phil, I agree with Cwhatfield40 ,you otta do a burn out anyway! submit pics too!

[dpmeeks]

lol... ive taken off kinda quick on some loose gravel and both tires spin. Also, when i had it off the ground i was talking to kendal on the phone and he said to spin one tire and if both turn then the trac lok is working which it did. Being that my rear is making noise im not gonna do any burn outs anytime soon.

[Cwhatfield40]

Yikes! That sounds ominous! Not that I abuse my equipment... but if you ain't breakin', you ain't racin'!
I have broken many differentials and overhauled many 8.8 axles.
Basics: if you hear consistant whining or growling from the diff then the lash is way off. But some slack in the drive line is normal wear as well.
However, If you hear grinding or the occasional crunch (maybe even jerks the car) then you are done, park it.
My experience has shown that the spider gears usually get broken. I recently replaced the spider gears on my 1996 Mustang for less than $40.
A brand new clutch pack with 500 miles on it will let tires spin independently at 50lbs of differential torque. Older cars like ours can be as low as 20lbs differential effort, especially if you are rallying and spinning your tires around the turns often.
>
I usually squeeze in an extra clutch disc and spacer bringing the differential torque up to roughly 75-100lbs.
This is how you break the spider gears by the way.

IHO, If you have to do more than just replace the spider gears and clutches you should just go all the way... after all, this is your baby right?
Replacing the pinion crush collar and seals is a bear, you will need a large depth micrometer and a bearing press. Axle bearings, seals, spider gears, clutches... overall about $300 to $350 in parts.
The Corral used to have a decent tech article on doing the whole axle. I referred to the almighty Haynes manual for the specifications on lash and set up.

Or yould just buy an gently used 8.8 ready to go.

Always seems like more money and even more work huh?

[dpmeeks]

Yep I'm hearing a constant roaring in the diff. I'm thinking about taking to a shop and have them check and or adjust the lash if possible.

[svono50]

Phil, sounds like you have a factory cone-type diff rather than the clutch-type, which is a good thing. If it isn't too worn a good driveline shop can recut and surface the male cone and female receiver along with proper shimming to get that fresh posi action. Unfortunately they can usually only freshen it once due to available clearances as I was told. I had one in my 7.5, it came from an 84.5 GT that my buddy owned. He was disposing of it when he upgraded to an 8.8. The howling is likely a shim issue for the pinion end of life and should be able to be checked and corrected to a point. No guarantee that the howl will completely go away though.

[Cwhatfield40]

I slept on it. Could simply be a failed interior axle bearing too. That would be cheap to fix. Cross you fingers and hope it is a shim or bearing.
>Ted's right though, they can cut the surface one time... usually. (Been 15 years since I saw some one do that though)
Next time you have to get new parts. On the bright side... that might be 6-8 years down the road.

[dpmeeks]

My buddy has a turbocoupe 87 or 88 and supposdly the rear end has been rebuilt. Im thinking about doing a swap. Ive searched and read it bolts up except for the quad shock mounts ? Also what about the axles, brakes, brake lines, etc. ?

[Cwhatfield40]

Cool, I put an 87 T/C rear end under my '89 5.7 budget brawler. It is 1.5" wider overall. But I didn't have any tire clearance issues with the extra 3/4" on either side. Also you will have to drill a new hole in the T/C shock absorber bracket to get the shock height just right. I took and used the quad shock mounts too. I don't remember what mods I made for that. I didn't have to do any exotic solutions though and was done in about 4 hours.

[dpmeeks]

So, do i use the axles and brake setup off the svo and put them on the turbocoupe rear end to make everything work ?

[Cwhatfield40]

You know, my 89 mustang was 4 lug, so I didn't have to worry about that. But yeah, you can swap that stuff over.
I found a great tech article on for eyed forums
he swaps a turbocoupe axle in to his SVO.
Now, I do remember having the same issue with the quad shock mounts. I used a right angle drill to make new holes to move the quad shock body mount back.