Electric Cooling Fan Malfunction

[Meotchh]

I see the one in Post #6. That one has two windings in it. The one in my unit only has the one winding. Again, my unit is stamped with the E2BB part number which, if I understand it correctly, would be correct.

The problem is, my car is an A/C car. I thought I was supposed to have the dual winding relay. I can hear and feel the relay clicking when I turn on the A/C. Where is the other relay to turn on the fan based on temperature?

Or, am I misunderstanding something?

Two windings? Dual winding relay??

I am guessing you mean two relays?


Those are the only two relays that will turn on the fan in an A/C equipped car.

[SVONASH]

For a car with A/C, the relay module board should look very similar to the one in this link http://www.svoca.com/forum/showpost....9&postcount=31 . Notice there are two relays on the board. The pic also indicates what each relay does.

Kinda like the one in post #6.

[jimmatczak]

Yeah, thats the problem. Mine only has a single relay on the board.

This is in a factory A/C car and it HAS BEEN working like this for 20 years. Is it possible that both the A/C and the temperature circuits are sharing a relay??? This is on an early (slapper bars) 84'.

[Meotchh]

Kinda like the one in post #6.

Kinda but not really. The link I posted indicates what each relay is for as well as the pin numbers.

[Meotchh]

Yeah, thats the problem. Is it possible that both the A/C and the temperature circuits are sharing a relay??? This is on an early (slapper bars) 84'.

Not possible if it is stock.
Is it possible someone previously hacked the wiring?

[jimmatczak]

No, that relay and the wiring would be stock and its been working that way since 1984.

I am tempted to replace it with the E2BB unit with the single relay in it as thats how its always been and its always worked.....

It does have all 6 wires going into it, but it has resistors on the one side where the other relay would be....what would those do??

[FinnSVO]

Old topic but same problem. Cooling fan quit working yesterday, it used to work as supposed with AC but not automatically by temp switch. Worked with temp switch wire grounded though, so I believe switch itself is bad. Built manual override switch by grounding terminal 1 wire. When removed TRW relay box found out that terminal 5 is fried and strange enough box itself is for non-AC cars (E2BB, only one relay inside). Also harness has just 6 wires and looks original untouched. AC cars should have 8 wire harness, right? And my car is originally equipped with AC... But same as jimmatczak's mine is early 84 (#126), built 10/83. Would this be some early-production specials?

So I'm going to order fan relay for non-AC cars together with new switch, since I don't see point of using two-relay box when harness is different. Or have I misunderstood something?
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[SVOeric]

I'd have to guess dealer installed A/C ??

Which makes me wonder how it worked when the A/C is on.

[Chuck]

I thought my fan switch was bad too but the lower intake manifold was packed full of gunk so that there was no water flow. It was so packed with gunk that the switch broke when trying to remove it. That's when I decided to pull the intake and found it packed full of solid solid solid gunk.

[FinnSVO]

I'd have to guess dealer installed A/C ??

Which makes me wonder how it worked when the A/C is on.

Sorry Eric but it isn't, fully original factory system. Even window sticker confirms that it's factory option. I believe there is no other way but both temp switch and AC switch are grounded on same circuit, since relay is clicking no matter which switch operates. I'm real bad on electronics but can't really imagine any other way.

Thanks Chuck for tip of checking intake manifold for dirt. Will do when I have new switch in hands.

Anyway I ordered non-AC relay and switch from Rockauto. Let's see what happends when I get them installed

[SvoTy]

Another thing to watch for when you are dealing with controller problems is that the power wire at the relay and the fan will discolor and it will have a lot of resistance in it.
We found this out the hard way a long time ago. If you see the wire is coffee colored or black you can strip it back until it turns copper and splice (solder not butt connectors) and the wire will quit burning up relays.