Major oil burn

[MacGyver]

im rebuilding an SVO, i have done alot of engine mods and a new t3/t4 turbo. it is now burning a major amount of oil, so bad at idle i am afraid to take it out on the road. i did the rings on it and complete new valving (oversized valves) at first i thought it was just the motor breaking in but it has been too long it has been doing this and 3 summers now im trying to get it on the road with the new engine. its seemed to go away at the end of last summer but i broke a cam tower and had to have it repaired. its all back together and not it seems to be burning oil worse than ever. im doing a compression check again next but since i did the rings on it i hope thats not it.

the turbo is new i got it from jim whelan so i dont think its that but im running out of ideas any help?

besides the major stuff (rings, turbo, valve stems) i have narrowed it down to som minor items. but im hoping someone can help before i check the same items multiple times. some of my smaller ideas are

1. the valve cover breather is supposed to let hot air escape right? how come there is a line to the front of the turbo? i think my line is letting oil into the turbo to burn off, anyone one else have this? anyone block it off? i was looking at the tiny avenger kit with the open element, its there a valve in it to prevent oil from coming out?

2. EGR valve. i replaced mine (with a turbo model one) but whats the right angle piece coming out of the block to to it

3. could the rings go bad after one winter of sitting? i did fog the motor knowing i would not work on it for some time.

any help would be appreciated, really looking to get into the autocross sceen this year without stealing my wife's integra

[GAboySVO]

Check your PVC valve. That is a good place for oil to inter the intake.

What type of valve stem seals did you use on the head rebuild? If not 88 Turbo Coupe ones then that should be your problem.

The vent tube to the turbo inlet is part of the PVC system and should not be removed. You could temporarily cap it off and filter the air at the cap someway to test if it is the source off the oil.

If your rings were installed incorrectly way back when, you could be getting blow by.

Does it smoke all of the time or just when you start up? My bet is the PVC valve has crapped out.

[MacGyver]

i did mean PVC not EGR (too many abbreviations) i did change the PVC valve. i did use the correct one also. its burning oil with the new one in it.

the valve stems seals came from esslinger. i had a new head that i put esslingers oversize valve and turbo roller cam/solid lifter kit into.

its smoking all the time (just at idle anyway cause i dont want to take it out on the road the way it is.

[SVOeric]

when you rebuilt it, did you hone the block, and what kind of rings did you use...

the only other thing that comes to mind is the turbo oil seal.

[MacGyver]

the block was new, didnt need a rebore. as far as the rings i think they were TWS but i dont have the receipt in front of me.

it might be the turbo, but i did send it back to jim once to have new seals put in. thats is one of my major things to look at. how would i bypass the turbo so no oil gets into the turbo?if i pull off the sending line and plug it up how long can i run the car at idle without the oil going to the turbo?

[GAboySVO]

I don't think you want to run the turbo witout getting any oil. When you installed the turbo after rebuild did you prime the oil feed line. If you didn't that may have caused your problem.

You might want to try a leakdown style test. Cap the return line, apply some air pressure, nothing higher than standard oil pressure, and see if it holds pressure and for how long. If it leaks down right away or constistant over time, then you have a seal problem.

Just a thought.

[kiwi]

Spark Plugs.....

Plugs say a lot......They'll narrow down the cylinder if there is one culprit....Check your turbo outlet tubing for oil/check your PCV line for an Excessive amount of oil & a compression check....
Smoking all the time is usually rings......Unless the valve stem seals are so bad that the downstroke of the piston is pulling oil right by the valve?????

[MacGyver]

well finally got the compression check done and it look like i need to replace the rings again. i think they might have frozen from last year. anyone have a recomended ring type? i would like a little on the high performace side since most of the motor is built.

and while i have your attention, how does everyone feel about windage trays? i figure i might put one in since i have the oil pan down while doing the rings?

[GAboySVO]

Windage Tray

From what I've read online, the windage tray can be a relatively cheap and maintenace free way to gain some HP. I don't know what the exact HP gains will be for the 2.3L Turbo, but Morosso advertises 10-20 HP gains on V-8s.

My brother is in the middle of a rebuild and he should have it back together by the 18th. He is adding the windage tray, so I should be able to give you a seat of the pants report in a couple of weeks.

Did you perform the compression test with a very hot motor? I was reading on a Merkur site that the 2.3L needs to be hot to get an accurate reading.

As far as the rings, you might check with Motion Dynamics or Racer Walsh.

[Greg]

What type of valve stem seals did you use?
If you are running a aftermaket cam have you check you clearences from the keepers to seal?

Just a Thought!

Turbo Greg

[MacGyver]

the whole cam kit is from esslinger. it included everything but the head its self. it has oversized valves, solid lifters, roller rockers, .585 lift cam esslinger valve stems and keepers

my compression was about 25 psi, but the engine was cold and the guage leaked a little so im not running out to get rings right away another test is in order. but i not betting on any better results

[SVOeric]

with a .585 lift cam, if your towers haven't been machined--- you found your problem!!!

[MacGyver]

the towers were machined and twoer straps added. but eric what kind of problem would occur?

[SVOeric]

every time the cam hits the top of the lobe, it would "squish" the seal....

this happens with any cam with more than about .500 lift.

[MacGyver]

that is deffinatly not happening, this is a kit of parts made for this head so it all fits together, i did not put this package togeher myself from the catalog.

did i just make sense?