Ok, well the test light did not light on the neg or positive side.
I had the DMM on A DC/AC, moved it to mA and got the same reading. I have uA mA and then the setting I was using in the first place. I disconnected the clock and the DMM went from 1.73 to .43. This was using the mA setting.
I tested the ground in the trunk and have less than .5 ohms.
My logic in checking amps across the battery was to see if any of the circuits were pulling as many amps as the battery had. As in being shorted to ground.
So where the car stands now it should be good on that one circuit(I think). I have a drain of about 1.95 when the thin brown wire, it has a 10A fuseable link and from that link is yellow, is connected. With the ignition on, when powered the fuel pump primed. Is there anything else this wire powers that I need to look at?
I had the DMM on A DC/AC, moved it to mA and got the same reading. I have uA mA and then the setting I was using in the first place. I disconnected the clock and the DMM went from 1.73 to .43. This was using the mA setting.
I tested the ground in the trunk and have less than .5 ohms.
My logic in checking amps across the battery was to see if any of the circuits were pulling as many amps as the battery had. As in being shorted to ground.
So where the car stands now it should be good on that one circuit(I think). I have a drain of about 1.95 when the thin brown wire, it has a 10A fuseable link and from that link is yellow, is connected. With the ignition on, when powered the fuel pump primed. Is there anything else this wire powers that I need to look at?
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