Camshaft removal

[KevinH]

The difference in the A237 to Bo 1.9 is pretty substantial.. You'll like it..
I made the swap on my ride, and enjoy every moment of it..

[svono50]

Doen't forget to put a rag in the head so they don't fall down the oil return hole directly below the screw!

Great advice BEFORE you start to remove the screws...hence the reason my 2.3L has 3 cam retaining plate screws on board...2 in plate, 1 in pan. I will retrieve it one day.

[Chuck]

OK, I'm past that point now. Screws are in. Now I'm getting ready to do the valve springs. The air attachment that I bought does not seem to work so I've also got about 5 feet of rope that may work in lieu of pressurized air.

[Chuck]

Too bad you're such a long way from Tucson.

Well, Monday afternoon I was in Oro Valley for a family cookout. That evening back in Phoenix. One of these trips...

[Chuck]

I figured out the air chuck (no pun) tool and have used it successfully while removing and replacing the front valve spring. The second valve spring is being a bit more difficult, probably due to having to reach over stuff. It looks like the subsequent valve springs are going to be more difficult as the distance from the front of the car increases. I did purchase the Esslinger valve spring compressor tool and it works like a charm and it is REALLY PRETTY.

The problem I'm having is getting the valve spring keepers to cooperate while installing the new springs. Is this something that is sort of like a rite of passage; figuring out the easiest way to get the keepers seated?

Chuck

[Chuck]

Thanks Mike. I'm also assuming that when I've got #1 cylinder at TDC I also have #4 at TDC. Then rotating crank 180 degrees I get #2 and #3 at TDC also.

P.S. I just got some man-sized tweezers from Ace Hardware!

[indiana dave]

This is a recording... LOL

The Essy tool is great for R&Ring the rockers but, IMHO, it sucks for swapping springs - as you have seen it is in the way too much for R&Ring the valve stem split locks.

Get a long pair of non-magnetic tweezers and hold the retainer down enough against the spring to get one lock in - using the tweezers to position the lock. Then use a small flat-blade screwdriver to rotate it away from you and install the other lock. Then slowly release spring pressure until you're confident the locks/keepers are in the correct position. Then fully release the spring pressure and move to the next valve.

This whole process - changing cam, rockers, springs and seals - should only take 2-3 hours from start to finish (the third time you do it, on a cold engine). 4 hours max with a case of beer helping.

[Chuck]

DO NOT FORGET to move the airline before taking the keepers off. That may ruin your day.

That's one thing I'm good at...warm air (not really hot); although the air in the garage is quite hot right about now. I can go out and work for about 6 minutes before I have to come back in the house. Today is a typical over 108 degree summer day and the humidity is up.

[Chuck]

Tomorrow morning will be another attack on the elusive valve springs. Today was 114 and tomorrow is slated to be 116 but an early start is in the cards.

[Chuck]

Update: Chuck got the last valve spring in and is now ready to install the HLAs and rockers. According to the kit instructions, I install an HLA and then the rocker with the cam lobe straight up. Then a feeler gauge to measure the gap tween roller and cam lobe. From there I install either the .030 spacer, the .060 spacer or both spacers aiming at a final clearance of around .030-.060 inches with the HLA compressed. This sound right as far as procedure? The instructions say that stock valves usually take both of the spacers but I plan on measuring anyway. Garage time is down to about 4 minutes before cool-off becomes mandatory.

[Erics SVO]

You are correct on the cam lobe facing up. And pushing down on the HLS end. Also make sure your HLA's are compressed/released. I used a C-Clamp with a socket slipped on the rounded end to squeeze all the oil out of them. If you have a bench vise it makes it even easier. I don't recall the clearances off the top of my head. I'm sure someone will chime in with those.

[Chuck]

Got it. It's now ready to put back together. Feeler gauged the clearances to be between 0.030 and 0.060 and all is well.